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Rotating assembly ???

Bens69PlymouthSatellite

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Recently seen that my cam had a crack in it. So I decided to take it to the machine shop before I have the bottom end inspected, is there any way to inspect if my bottom end is holding compression without compression checking it,I barred it over with the heads still on and all the exhaust ports were blowing puffs of air out of them rather strong,Also I have a 69 440 magnum I should have a forged crank right?? so If I decide im doing a 500 hp rebuild than i should be o.k right?
 
Only way to really know about your cylinder condition short of disassembly is a compression check. I believe your engine should have a forged crank, but even a cast crank should be fine up to about 600 hp as long as you build it right using good parts.
 
So provided the block only needs to be honed would the stock pistons be fine as well or would I be better off swapping those for forged,should I buy new rods?
 
A Forged Steel Crank is EXACTLY what you need on a 500+HP engine. and a 69 model 440 would have one, unless someone has changed it.
 
Chrysler had some of the best rods just alittle heavy as compared to aftermarket rods.I would go with alittle higher compression piston and a good oiling system.You might think about a stroker kit.If not a stroker kit you can do a cam,carb,intake upgrade,alittle head work and make good power pretty easy.
 
A cylinder leak down test will give you the most information and you don't have to crank the engine over to do it. You do need a special gauge setup though. Any well equipped auto repair shop should have one. You can roll the engine into the back of a pickup truck and take it to someone to have it done.

500 HP with an automatic should be fine with a cast crank - definitely fine with a steel one. Like it says above, a 69 440 (or any big block for that matter) will have a steel crank originally installed.
 
It does seem to look like a pretty bone stock 69 magnum,I am looking into changing the pistons,and if I need an overbore than I will have to change them anyway,trying to get away with just a honing job though,wont know for a week or two though,I heard hydraulic roller cams are the easiest cams to work with,and me being inexperienced im thinking of going that route,any comments suggestions?
 
I have honed and re ringed plenty of engines and the results have been great, but you must pay attention to the details.

Any time you deviate from the stock or near stock cam profile you need to check and or correct the valve train geometry, and roller cams tend to be high lift and fast acceleration rates because they can get away with it so don't take it lightly. Also pay attention to your compression ratio when selecting a cam. A mild roller would also be more tolerant to the low additive oil available these days.
 
Thanks Meep always helpful,I may end up going with the edelbrock top end package,also may end up doing a bone stock rebuild or just get the eddy heads and go from there,no matter what I do I am sure you and the forum can help walk me through it,thanks alot!!
 
Meep! Good advice on the leak-down test. cheap tool, but very helpful. Dont know why its not more popular. Alot folks think its more fun to change parts than do diagnosis. I have a link to build one for under $20. http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/leakdown_tester.htm
Good luck. I followed this and it worked perfectly.


That's a great link! Thanks for posting. I know you can buy them from some of the major tool vendors but with this handy-dandy set of plans why? :grin:
 
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