• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Sealed beam replacements

Dreadl0ck

Well-Known Member
Local time
3:28 AM
Joined
Jun 7, 2014
Messages
465
Reaction score
149
Location
Sweden
It's a PITA to get hold of the 5 3/4" sealed beams here in Sweden so I was thinking about replacing them with the ones that hold a H4 bulb.

Do you know any particular brand that's better than the others?

Is it H5006 on the low beams and H5006 for the high beam that I'm looking into replacements of?
 
I would not go with the H4 bulb style....just get the Wagner or Sylviania Halogen styles that pop right in and take the place of older sealed beam bulbs...
 
Well, here they don't care on cars older than 1975 so I figured it would be convenient with H4 replacement. However I've been reading a bit about the light switch that might not be able to hold up for the heat generated. Hmm..

Found a new set of Sylvania halogens locally for (embrace yourself here) 70 bucks a pop...
 
Search for a set up that uses relays. That is what I did.
 
You definitely want to just use the existing switch to trip the relays and then get a more direct source of power to the lights. You will see a big improvement no matter what light technology you use.
 
For a fully original type car, the 55/60 W H4 blubs draw 4.5/5 amps repsectively. The stock bulbs and the halogen sealed beams draw around 3.5 amps per filament. So the current draw increase will be on the order of 14 amps to 19 amps for a 4 lamp system on high beams. That is not a killer for the existing switch but you ought to have a new one so that this increase will cause minimal problems; the old switches can be disassembled and cleaned; I have done so and silver coated the contacts to lower the resistance with a product called CoolAmp. (But that stuff is too expensive for just one project.) Also, you ought to use some silver loaded dielectric grease on the contacts to improve conductivity and lower heat ( you can get that on eBay), as well as on all connections in the lighting system.

But if this car is not an original restoration car, then a relay is certainly a good way to go.

- - - Updated - - -

I have a Cibie set from the 1970's like that; they really are good lights.

- - - Updated - - -

Well, here they don't care on cars older than 1975 so I figured it would be convenient with H4 replacement. However I've been reading a bit about the light switch that might not be able to hold up for the heat generated. Hmm..

Found a new set of Sylvania halogens locally for (embrace yourself here) 70 bucks a pop...
You need to let me stay at your house for the Swedish Winter Rally and I can bring you a full set for that price!
 
If you want to stay original , just do some searching around on Ebay. I bought a case of 4000 and a case of 4001 and I paid about $ 40.00 for each case . That comes out to be about $3.33 a bulb.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top