66vertplum
Member
For your pleasure are three GM pieces (dist, alt, ps pump), but wait, even cooler are the bolts on the valve covers to attach a (really) slide hammer! Enjoy.
Seen it all. . .
- Thread starter 66vertplum
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Well I'm no Bible thumper by any means but there are a couple biblical phrases that are suitable in certain situations. The one that comes to mind here is: "let he who is without sin cast the first stone". That said, show us the junk you're driving !!
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
I wonder, why would you need a slide hammer to remove valve covers?
Must have been siliconed down.
66vertplum
Member
The last time I saw this 66 Coronet 500 convertible, it was in my garage. Thank you, the master cylinder is GM too. The valve cover was glued down after it was beat up to fit the distributor. So the beat up job was done twice.
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Ya know?
With todays Gasoline and mine in particular, the California Blends (Summer Blend and Winter Blend) I support the Electronic dizzy conversions
Rat Rod Al
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What's he got going on with the master cylinder ?
The thermostat water outlet looks really nice.
(Stay positive people)
(Stay positive people)
451Mopar
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It looks like the power brake setup from "The Right Stuff" disc brake conversion kit?
That looks closer to stock than my engine compartment.
The 505" 440 in the Convertible has the Edelbrock XT TPI type intake manifold, Summit aluminum valve covers, and a Tru-Trac accessory drive system.
66vertplum
Member
It runs real good in the driveway. I need to get some sheet metal on yet.
Carcinogen
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I'll give it a thumbs up. Bet it bugs the heck out of the numbers matching purists.
Actually looks like well done craftsmanship that works and is not in danger of burning up. Wires tied up and not bare or loose (noticed electrical is the most neglected part of a build).
We all have our strengths and weaknesses. I'm more of a Rat Rodder myself and care more for function than looks and don't have a lot of money.
Also using HEI, but just the module as I did not want to buy a new distributor and re-used stock electronic. Between the HEI and mini starter it does not sound like a Mopar starting, quick touch of the key and starts fast, does not crank long.
Actually looks like well done craftsmanship that works and is not in danger of burning up. Wires tied up and not bare or loose (noticed electrical is the most neglected part of a build).
We all have our strengths and weaknesses. I'm more of a Rat Rodder myself and care more for function than looks and don't have a lot of money.
Also using HEI, but just the module as I did not want to buy a new distributor and re-used stock electronic. Between the HEI and mini starter it does not sound like a Mopar starting, quick touch of the key and starts fast, does not crank long.
66vertplum
Member
Thank you. The whole car was wired from spools and has several relays. Also all soldered old school.
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I'm always game for giving the finger to the purists. Sorry for my sarcastic posts above.
Rock N Roll 66vert. It's your car, have fun with it. I agree with Carcinogen, it's well put together regardless of so called "correctness".
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
I started re-wiring my '69 Coronet Convertible, then Covid hit, so not done yet...
Serious number of relays in the car. Likely over 20+ when I'm done.
4 Power Windows, 8 SPDT relays, plus the stock key on safety relay. 9 total
Power Top, 2 more relays (might add a safety relay to the top also?) Up to 12 now...
More relays for:
Fuel pump #13
Head Lights (2) running total 15...
Dual cooling fans (another 2 relays) 17...
Horn and A/C compressor 19... and counting
Haven't decided if I want to relay the alternator to battery for a cut off switch? I don't really race the Convertible.
Adding aftermarket power door locks too (Can be operated with Alarm remote too.)
Not yet sure total for stereo / sub Amp(s), and alarm system.
Neutral safety switch relay, but just stock one.
I might use a opto-isolated relay board for the EFI computer accessory outputs (Fans, A/C clutch, and such) so don't have to worry about flyback diodes.
The relay board only has 10 Amp rated relays, but they will drive the 35 Amp relays for fans A/C clutch.
The 10 Amp relays are fine for most of the Alarm needs.
Besides the isolation, the board lets me select if I want the relays triggered with a high or low input.
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