Setting The Timing

[Gospel Runner]

I have a 700 HP dynode 440 engine in my 70 Road Runner. It has the Indy I heads and valve covers, with MSD distributor. In setting the timing I cannot turn the distributor enough to bring the timing mark up to the proper mark on the timing cover gauge. The timing mark is about 1-1/2"-2" before the gauge. How can I get this distributor to move when the ear on the distributor is hitting the valve cover? I cannot be the only one with this problem. Please tell me how to fix this issue. I am wondering if I lift the distributor out and move the ear to the other side of the valve cover, will it be too much. I know when this engine was dynode about 11 or 12 years ago, the distributor was in its present position. Is the spiraled oil gear in the right position or can I move it over one spiral without hurting anything. Can anyone help me with this?

 

[1967coronet440]

Hmm I've read on this before, I believe the trick flow heads have the same issue if you don't use specific valve cover gaskets, I believe their fix was trim the corner of the gasket and or dent the valve cover.. can you upload a pic of the problem area.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Change the indexing of the intermediate shaft one or two gear teeth to get the clearance you need. Easy fix.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Is the spiraled oil gear in the right position or can I move it over one spiral without hurting anything.

Yes, THIS!!

 

[Gospel Runner]

Thank you gentlemen. I will index the spiraled gear, which is the same as the intermediate shaft. I will let you know how this goes.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Wait a minute.... am I missing something here unique to Indy heads & MSD distributors? Why not move each spark plug wire (on the cap) over one place & re-set the timing?

I know on my stock distributor the vacuum advance can hit the valve cover when I want to adjust the timing "just a few more degrees"....I just unplug wire "A" and move it to "B", then move "B" to "C", and "C" to "D" and so forth. Just do one wire at a time so you don't get the firing order out of whack. It does the same thing as re-indexing the oil pump/distributor gear without any disassembly.

 

[Gospel Runner]

I tried advancing the intermediate shaft this morning, now it won't start. I tried putting it back to where it was, it still wont start. I have flooded it, then the battery died. I removed the valve cover on the driver side and bumped the starter until both valves were closed on number one cylinder and set the rotor cap so it was pointing at the number one plug wire. Nothing worked. I will retry again tomorrow.

Does moving the wires on the distributor work? I wish I knew that this morning.

 

[miller]

Does moving the wires on the distributor work? I wish I knew that this morning.

ONLY if your holding your mouth right!

Yeah, it can...but, the two things that make the difference are, where your rotor is pointing, and where you have the #1 plug wire on the cap.

You want to have the drive gear slot aimed, so when you drop the dizzy in, it's 'aiming' the rotor the direction you want. But, also considering the dizzy's housing, and attachments, so you get a range of movement, to set timing.
Then, putting on the cap, you decide where #1 plug wire goes, and on from there.

 

[lewtot184]

the first thing to do is make sure the slot in the intermediate shaft is parallel to the camshaft at #1 TDC. if this is correct and the timing still can't be correctly set i'd look for the possibility of modifying the head/valve cover-gasket/distributor. moving the wires around is doable but usually screwing with firing order/moving gears can cause confusion during future trouble shooting. basically what i'm saying is exhaust all avenues, with the parts in their correct location, to remedy the problem before making big changes.

 

[Garys1969RR]

I think you need to move the shaft gear 1 tooth counter clockwise in order to advance the timing. Is this what you did? You can static time the engine too, by setting the harmonic balancer to show 20 degrees BTDC, then setting your distributor so that the pick up coil is lined up with the reluctor. Then make sure the rotor is lined up with # 1 plug wire. This works great for me, it starts every time. Better than cranking the engine and moving the dist around until it fires.

 

[Gospel Runner]

I brought the # 1 piston up to TDC with both valves closed. I moved the intermediate helix one tooth counter clockwise and it would not even act like it wanted to start. I reset the # 1 piston at TDC and moved the intermediate helix two teeth clock wise (which is really one tooth clockwise from its original position). I rotated the distributor so the rotor was pointing at the # 1 plug wire and it fired up. Since I have plenty room now to rotate the distributor, I tried to set the timing on the red line on the Indy timing cover (which would be 0 deg.). The engine ran terrible. I then set it at 30 BTDC on the harmonic balancer and it ran great. It still does not start real easy when cold. I may have to now play with the carburetor and set the jetting next. I do want to thank you gentlemen for helping me out with your suggestions. You have been a tremendous support and I am very grateful! Have a blessed day! I will let you know how the carb adjustments go.

 

[lewtot184]

doesn't MSD make a tall distributor just for this problem?

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

30* BTC for initial timing seems a bit much to me, but then I don't know how your engine is built. My engines usually like about 15*-18* BTC at 750 RPM for initial and then I set full mechanical advance for about 32*-34* BTC at about 2600-2800 RPM. Once all that is set, I adjust the vacuum advance to provide about 52*-55* total advance at cruise RPM.

You're perfectly welcome to set yours as you wish, just outlining my method in case someone is interested.