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Single stage techniques

cubanmoparnut54

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Getting ready to spray the RR clone in Single Stage, I've heard of spraying 2 coats and then sanding and then respraying to get a super deep finish? Should I do this route or just spray 4 coats in the same session? Will wet sand and buff either way.
 
That sounds like a lot more work and time for the exact same result. I wonder what is the thinking is behind why it would look deeper?
 
Every one of the tasks that we do with these cars will have a variety of techniques that people will recommend.
The only reason I can see to spray, sand and spray again is when you get crud or defects in the paint. If you can spray without getting any fish eyes, dirt, water, eyebrows or bugs in the paint, why not lay down three coats and be done with it?
I'm no expert but I've painted a few cars. I always lay down a bit more than necessary because I often get dust or something in the paint that will need to be sanded out. In the case of heavy orange peel, it needs to be sanded smooth so you need to lay down more to leave enough coverage after all the color sanding and buffing is done.
Good luck.
 
I’ve only painted one car in SS urethane but unless you get a run or sag in it you want to correct and recover, or trash/ bug in it, I don’t see any practical reason to apply your coats in more than one session. I think the spray, sand, spray, sand, etc is something from the lacquer days.

Yes, unless you are a really good painter with a good booth and can lay down a flawless, flat final coat, I wouldn’t use SS with any metallic in it.
 
I've only used SS in a solid color ( ex. Chroma-One ) never a metallic, and only used one application. That's me.
 
Single stage paint. Lay it down once and you are done. That is the great thing about it. Prep is key.
 
I worked in a conversion van shop in the 80's ........ the paint shop ran 3 shifts, 2-3 painters per shift with helpers...... we shot truck loads of Centari

if you cannot live with a few nibs of dirt, don't do it (solid colors will sand/buff)
 
I actually have some GG1 Racing Green metallic in U-Tech single stage wasting away on my shelf......... I'm seriously contemplating putting it on my Dakota as a second color
 
I’ve only painted one car in SS urethane but unless you get a run or sag in it you want to correct and recover, or trash/ bug in it, I don’t see any practical reason to apply your coats in more than one session. I think the spray, sand, spray, sand, etc is something from the lacquer days.

Yes, unless you are a really good painter with a good booth and can lay down a flawless, flat final coat, I wouldn’t use SS with any metallic in it.
This car is going to be painted in sublime green. I plan on finishing with 2000, 3000, then 8000 and buff.
 
Sublime is never going to show depth like a darker color... But if you look at the reflection of the curb in the quarter panel & door, that's about as good as it gets... Single stage Centari, rolled into the booth & layed down three coats, cut & buffed a few days later...

1.jpg
 
This car is going to be painted in sublime green. I plan on finishing with 2000, 3000, then 8000 and buff.
3 good full wet coats, make sure to use a slow reducer and activator in hot weather unless your booth / shop has A/C
Then JMHO, 8000 is over kill on the sanding.
finish / correct sand wet with a 3" piece of paint stick and 1500 paper on it for sags or nibs.Then your 2000 and with 3000 trizact pads on a small orbit da.
Lots of clean water, start at the rocker level and work up.
I like the 3m perfect it in 3000 compound on a green foam then follow with their grey polish on the fine / black foam pad.
 
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3 good full wet coats, make sure to use a slow reducer and activator in hot weather unless your booth / shop has A/C
Then JMHO, 8000 is over kill on the sanding.
finish / correct sand wet with a 3" piece of paint stick and 1500 paper on it for sags or nibs.Then your 2000 and with 3000 trizact pads on a small orbit da.
Lots of clean water, start at the rocker level and work up.
I like the 3m perfect it in 3000 compound on a green foam then follow with their grey polish on the fine / black foam pad.
How so? I hear that the 8000 works wonders for paint. Supposedly it is a one-stage system that removes buffing but I will still use the Meguiars 105 either way. This is going to be sprayed in an enamel as well so I'm trying to get as much depth, gloss and shine as possible.
 
3 good full wet coats, make sure to use a slow reducer and activator in hot weather unless your booth / shop has A/C
Then JMHO, 8000 is over kill on the sanding.
finish / correct sand wet with a 3" piece of paint stick and 1500 paper on it for sags or nibs.Then your 2000 and with 3000 trizact pads on a small orbit da.
Lots of clean water, start at the rocker level and work up.
I like the 3m perfect it in 3000 compound on a green foam then follow with their grey polish on the fine / black foam pad.
I also want to apply 2000 by hand just to avoid pigtails because I hear about those all the time.
 
Sublime is never going to show depth like a darker color... But if you look at the reflection of the curb in the quarter panel & door, that's about as good as it gets... Single stage Centari, rolled into the booth & layed down three coats, cut & buffed a few days later...

View attachment 1703288
Looks gorgeous. I saw a 74 charger (albeit not my favorite B-Body) once in sublime green and fell in love with the color.
 
3 good full wet coats, make sure to use a slow reducer and activator in hot weather unless your booth / shop has A/C
Then JMHO, 8000 is over kill on the sanding.
finish / correct sand wet with a 3" piece of paint stick and 1500 paper on it for sags or nibs.Then your 2000 and with 3000 trizact pads on a small orbit da.
Lots of clean water, start at the rocker level and work up.
I like the 3m perfect it in 3000 compound on a green foam then follow with their grey polish on the fine / black foam pad.
I've seen lots of cars Wet sanded and buffed Similarly. The issue is at night you can see the sanding scratches reflecting off the paint. Just thought I would give it a shot.
 
I've seen lots of cars Wet sanded and buffed Similarly. The issue is at night you can see the sanding scratches reflecting off the paint. Just thought I would give it a shot.
Best of luck to you, I'm sure it will look great.
That is a very nice color to work with.
 
Everyone has their favorite products but I struggled to buff the last of the sanding scratches out of the black SS on my ERA Cobra I built and painted. But then I stumbled on to Wizard compound and polish products and my troubles were instantly resolved. It quickly and with minimal effort left me with a flawless surface.

 
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