Six Barrel phenolic spacer question

[440+6]

I have a 1970 GTX 440 six barrel and an air grabber hood and want to use phenolic spacers to eliminate some of the heat to my carbs because I think I have a bit of a heat soak problem (it starts perfectly when cold and when it's hot if I restart right away but when it's hot and sitting for a while 10 to 30 minutes I need to crank it for 5 or more seconds before it starts).
I see them the spacers available in ¼ or ½ inch thick and I am wondering how thick can I go without any problems with the air grabber setup.
Also what needs to be done with the choke rod to make it longer?
I don’t see any other concerns but let me know if there are any.

 

[62MAX]

No heat soak here,starts instantly hot or cold,check your float level.As for the choke,all you can do is make a new rod and add the thickness of the spacer to the length.

 

[Budnicks]

that will help with heat soak problem, but "I think" anymore than 1/4" spacer you will run into "hood clearance problems" @ the seal area on the air cleaner base to the N96 Air Grabber plastic plenum/upper portion mounted to the underside of the hood... the rubber will only smash so much, before it becomes an issue...

 

[440beep]

Where did you find those sized spacers? I only found the Holley 1" spacers, which are way too huge.

 

[440+6]

float levels ok, just dripping out of sight plug

Found them on ebay
1/4 inch
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230994356990?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
1/2 inch
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230905528650?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[6packMIKE]

Check float levels. But first try a restart with a tiny bit of pedal.

 

[440+6]

When I have the problem the only way to start it is giving a couple of half pedals.

 

[benno440]

also i have been told that when hard to start after engine hot is that you may need some more advance in your timing

 

[D575]

Mine was doing that, turned out to be a float needle/seat. once it started it ran fine, but after sitting fuel would seep past the needle and into the engine. until there wasn't any more pressure in the fuel line.

 

[lewtot184]

No heat soak here,starts instantly hot or cold,check your float level.As for the choke,all you can do is make a new rod and add the thickness of the spacer to the length.

you sure do pretty work!

 

[toolmanmike]

Check out "www.coolcarb.com" Talked to him at the Nats and he may be able to help. I like his product. tmm

 

[440+6]

Thanks all, I'll clean all needles and seats and reset floats and see how that goes then recheck timing and maybe bump it up a bit.
I will update as soon as I can.
I would rather not use spacers unless absolutely necessary.

 

[Budnicks]

maybe remove the intake manifold & just block off the heat riser port... It's much less heat saturation in the intake manifold & carbs & put a screw in the choke lever holding it open or disconnect, so it won't stay shut all/most the time...

 

[440+6]

I cleaned needles and seats, reset floats and same thing.
Then bumped up timing 5 deg and same thing no difference.
Any other suggestions guys?

 

[okiemopar]

On my 70 RoadRunner with 383 and air grabber I can't put any spacers on it are it will hit the air box on the hood. I checked my fuel pump {almost new} and it was very weak and draining back. Put a new pump and filter on it and it is all different now. So check your pump too. Good Luck Ronnie

 

[poppa]

Mine does this also ,very little. Someone just told me to try a fuel separator.

 

[6packMIKE]

mechanical fuel pump I'm assuming? Do you have a new fuel filter?

- - - Updated - - -

where in michigan are you? I'm in warren.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

maybe remove the intake manifold & just block off the heat riser port... It's much less heat saturation in the intake manifold & carbs & put a screw in the choke lever holding it open or disconnect, so it won't stay shut all/most the time...

yep, gotta have those heat risers blocked in the warm weather. the gas we run now really has alot of light ends and will vapor lock real easy.

 

[Budnicks]

yep, gotta have those heat risers blocked in the warm weather. the gas we run now really has alot of light ends and will vapor lock real easy.

yep :iamwithstupid: unless your driving the car when it's really cold, you really don't need it {the choke} anyway, especially if it's tuned properly, my car even starts in sub 20*F weather in the winter here, INSTANTLY, with no heat riser & aluminum heads, that don't have the heat riser provision even....

 

[440+6]

mechanical fuel pump I'm assuming? Do you have a new fuel filter?

- - - Updated - - -

where in michigan are you? I'm in warren.

I'm in Farmington, just got a new Holley mechanical fuel pump from a buddy that decided to go electric on his build (mine was a cheapo pump) also bought some insulation for the fuel lines (enough to do from pump to carbs) need to pick up a new filter and will do all in the next day or two and see what happens.

I also checked for hood clearance and a quarter inch spacer is no problem with my air grabber so I ordered those also, hopefully all these combined will do the trick.

- - - Updated - - -

maybe remove the intake manifold & just block off the heat riser port... It's much less heat saturation in the intake manifold & carbs & put a screw in the choke lever holding it open or disconnect, so it won't stay shut all/most the time...

I may have to block them if all else fails, I don't want to pull my intake if I can avoid it (that sucker is freakin heavy) so that's the last resort.
If that time comes I'm gonna ask you how to properly do it.