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six pack?

I'd say it would be a good start. Don't forget to consider air cleaner clearance. I'm sure someone will have more information here.
 
Six Paks are interesting. Make good power & are neat looking. Finding good used carbs may be a problem. Check with the 6 Pak experts. Far as I can tell new carbs are expensive. The system does work with a little tuning. Main thing I found with my OEM carbs was the end carb idle screws needed to be opened up a bit 1/4 to 1/2 turns. Made a really big difference. Stock jetting was pretty good. A few tries with changing the center carb squirter size was needed. This was with an OEM 69 1/2 aluminum manifold. Over the years I tried the 69 carbs & actually the 500 CFM aftermarket center carb. But the '70 OEM carbs worked better than the '69 & 71 carbs I tried. No idea why. No idea how the current aftermarket carbs work. Check with the current experts.
 
Brother I run a six bbl in my roadrunner and have run them before. They do work well WHEN TUNED properly but I have to tell you for all the trouble they are, if I didn't already have it, I would not put the money into it. If you have a 2 speed wiper motor, that will have to go because the air cleaner lid interferes and they are a pain to tune. Nothing scary but they take time and patience to get em dialed in right. They look cool but for the money you will have in one, I don't think they are worth it. Just my 2 cents. Bill
Coyote Duster.JPG
 
like Bill said, they can be a pain in the *** to tune and look cool, but when they are tuned they work good. But for the cost and problems you can have tuning them, it is a decision you will have to make. I finnaly had to have the car tuned by a professional and he used a dyno to help get it tuned correct. It is all about the $$, and how much you really want it.
 
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Damn that's what I was worried about, thanks guys, great to hear first hand, I don't want my heart to beat my head again so I might go back to plan A and look at the Performer RPM intake so I can use the existing stock carb then upgrade the carb to an XP or similar next year ... after I have put bread back on the table for a few months
 
alextucker said:
Damn that's what I was worried about, thanks guys, great to hear first hand, I don't want my heart to beat my head again so I might go back to plan A and look at the Performer RPM intake so I can use the existing stock carb then upgrade the carb to an XP or similar next year ... after I have put bread back on the table for a few months
Click to expand...
RPM is a good intake, I like the M-1 too
 
Be sure to check the height of the Performer RPM intake to see if it fits under the hood.
 
66Satellite47 said:
Be sure to check the height of the Performer RPM intake to see if it fits under the hood.
Click to expand...
Good idea I just presumed that it would, anyone use one with clearance issues? Or will I have to measure up

How about this older intake? Looks very different to others I've been looking at so I'm not sure it will fit stock set up.
https://www.ebay.ie/itm/112367356809
 
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Just remember one important thing: ONLY DODGE Cars ARE SIX PACKS.....PLYMOUTH Cars ARE SIX BARRELs.....
Which ones are better???? Only time will tell !!!!!
Cheers,
Bob Renton
 
One last question

Is my stock inlet alu or cast? I presume cast but just wanted to double check before I start the cleaning up.
 
With the exception of the 69 1/2 original 6 Pak or 6 Barrel products. The early year factory race cars also had non iron intakes.
 
Re 6 barrel / 6 pack manifold's material of construction.....i believe that the first manifolds were cast iron. Soon after production started, there was a problem with Cracking...in the xover passages. The fix was to contract with Edlebrock to cast the manifolds from aluminum....and we all know that Edlebrock is a wizard with aluminum casting and machining.
My RS23V0A****** was built in the third week of November of 1969 at the Lynch Road assembly plant and has an aluminum Edlebrock manifold. Refer to: allpar.com for additional information and a nice history of the engine. I believe the 6 barrel engines were built at the Trenton plant
Bob Renton
 
Alex unless you want to spend $$$$& headaches go for a 4-bbl.
 
I was drawn to this thread by the mention of the word "six-pack" .... {burp}.
 
The 'ole CH4B shown......looks like someone "welded" an intake runner to the bottom flange... i use the term welded optimistically because it appears that the person that "welded" it just graduated from weld school and used a stick electrode without any surface prep or shield gas. It appears that filler metal is just gobbed on without any penetration. Aluminum should be welded using the TIG Heliarc ptocess with helium as the shield gas and depending on the section depth, preheat maintaining interpass temp followed by post heat and cool down, using a filler metal compatible with the base metal alloy. A popular die casting alloy is 380Z, and is easily repaired using correct procedures. I'm sure others will disagree or have their own opinions.
Bob Renton
 
oldbee said:
Alex unless you want to spend $$$$& headaches go for a 4-bbl.
Click to expand...
Oldbee,
I totally disagree.....a 6 barrel setup will perform extremely well with great performance yet provide decent (?) fuel milage.....and out performs the standard 4 bbl set up....ask the person who owns one......me !!!.
Bob Renton
 
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