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So, what's the 'cure'?

miller

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Besides only a few minor oil seeps, that only took tightening bolts, on my 440, only have one issue.
The blasted paint on my valve covers. Using 68-69 HP exhaust manifolds. Valve covers painted, as the rest of the motor, with rattle can engine Hemi orange. Noticed it, after breaking the cam in...first run of the motor.
Both sides, where the exhaust manifolds are within, say an inch and a half, the valve cover paint is cooked! Not black, or anything like that, but sort of wrinkled.
Yes, after I get some time on the motor, I'll pull the covers, and re-paint them.

Put two good coats of paint on them, and cured in the sun. Should I have baked the paint?
Thoughts, catcalls, ideas...and, thanks!
 
My best answer is what I do when I've done something like that.... just don't look at it.
 
I wonder if it was just the fact that they were literally baked initially (no air movement) that did it. Might have better luck once it's a driver with it being baked slower?
 
The cure?
Walken-Cowbell_DS.jpg

Okay okay just funnin' with ya... Seriously though, I had the same problem with that before because of the extra break-in temperatures, I started painting them after the break-in and it seemed to stop the flaking/wrinkling. Works for headers too
 
I've used POS 15 engine paint for two motors in the past and can't say enough good about it. It really doesn't car about heat, it will burn, but it takes quite a bit. The only mistake I made was that I put the manifolds on and painted the engine getting plenty of over spray on the manifolds. Instead of burning off, it kind of porcelainized into a burned smooth coating.

You could always use chrome valve covers!:rolleyes:
 
Reach put to Leighanne (Cudachick) she can powder coat them for you.
 
All good ideas, guys...even 'more cowbell':).

Last motor I broke in, including the cam bit, was 25 years ago. Only took 5 minutes!
Right about the higher temps. Planned to pull the covers, after 300 miles anyway, for a peek...I'll paint 'em then.
 
Take the bare metal covers and tin, blast it clean, degrease, then wash with soap and hot water. I blow the parts dry but have shop air. Then, after anything's masked that needs it, take a propane torch and place the flame on the metal. You'll see a water ring form as the heat both evaporates water out of the metal's pores and causes that vapor to condense on the adjacent cool metal. Heat the part until there's no more condensation. Then while it's still warm (not "hot), hit it with engine enamel. The paint will look new for years with no peeling. The moisture in the metal does not let the paint bond to the metal surface as tightly, and does not let water pass through it once it cures fully. So as the engine runs and cools through heat cycles, the paint bubbles.
 
send them to cudachick she will make them look very nice :thumbsup:
 
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