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So where are all the “Cheap” B-Bodies (Hagerty)

HEMI-ITIS said:
Are we talking investments or building the vst of our dreams.I don't like flippers but they will do what they do.
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Looking to build a Street/Strip "regular" driver. I've had dozens of cars over the years, repainted a few, swapped engines, built engines, I'm well aware of the misery of body work and dealing with rust issues. Looking for something with a good body.

I don't mind fixing little things as I go, it's part of the hobby. I don't care at all about numbers, originality or any of that.

So for an example -

http://www.gatewayclassiccars.com/atlanta/1968/plymouth/road-runner-S507.html

I can't see this car being worth more then $10k. It has a terrible paint job with lots of over-spray, an incomplete interior and the engine bay is a mess. In-Op heater core, wires haggard about and the video shows the car is blowing smoke.
 
A&F said:
Looking to build a Street/Strip "regular" driver. I've had dozens of cars over the years, repainted a few, swapped engines, built engines, I'm well aware of the misery of body work and dealing with rust issues. Looking for something with a good body.

I don't mind fixing little things as I go, it's part of the hobby. I don't care at all about numbers, originality or any of that.

So for an example -

http://www.gatewayclassiccars.com/atlanta/1968/plymouth/road-runner-S507.html

I can't see this car being worth more then $10k. It has a terrible paint job with lots of over-spray, an incomplete interior and the engine bay is a mess. In-Op heater core, wires haggard about and the video shows the car is blowing smoke.
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Being from Gateway I wouldn't even want it if it was free.....lol
 
moparnation74 said:
Being from Gateway I wouldn't even want it if it was free.....lol
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The cockeyed radiator hanging out the bottom is a nice touch.

507j.jpg
 
A&F said:
I see lots of rotted carcasuses with missing power trains from $3k to $15k and restored jobs for $35-70k
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This time last year I was in the exact same boat as you. In five years I had traveled to four states and walked away from many 14 to 30K cars that were without titles, say 'running and driving', but were not, 'restored condition' that meant tons of bondo, or 1 inch think primer, and I could go on and on. I could write a 300 page book on my stories of my car search.

I can't comment on Hagerty's valuation tool prices, but I can tell you these two things:
1) Any B Body under 30K is far from perfect.
2) Any B Body near 14K is not roadworthy.

It is impossible to price these cars to a value scale. There are some 318 B Body cars out there that are 'honest' values at 20-24K, but for the most part you have to spend 30 to get something somewhat decent. Even at 30 expect another 3 to 6 in fixes.

Don't get discouraged, don't give up, and try to boil down the decision to reasons. I paid probably 2-4K too much for my car, but it was local, so I assumed that shipping would have been the 2-4K if I had bought out of state. The weekend before I bought my car I looked at a 70 Road Runner clone. Nice solid car with a 440, but it had Mitsubishi door handles, custom murals, and was missing the heater box, glove box, and several odds and ends. It ran great and drove well. The asking price was 26 firm. Following weekend I look at a real 68 Road Runner, running and driving, but needing odds and ends for 26. It was much better and nicer than the clone I looked at the prior weekend, so that kind of edged me to make the decision to pay 26 for the real Road Runner. It would have been a fair price at 22-24, but judging by what I had seen over the past 5 years, and it being local made the decision.

Good Luck in your search!
 
The problem, in part, is the delusional owners of the bottom tier junk, that think they own Barrett-Jackson gold.
 
Billccm said:
This time last year I was in the exact same boat as you. In five years I had traveled to four states and walked away from many 14 to 30K cars that were without titles, say 'running and driving', but were not, 'restored condition' that meant tons of bondo, or 1 inch think primer, and I could go on and on. I could write a 300 page book on my stories of my car search.

I can't comment on Hagerty's valuation tool prices, but I can tell you these two things:
1) Any B Body under 30K is far from perfect.
2) Any B Body near 14K is not roadworthy.

It is impossible to price these cars to a value scale. There are some 318 B Body cars out there that are 'honest' values at 20-24K, but for the most part you have to spend 30 to get something somewhat decent. Even at 30 expect another 3 to 6 in fixes.

Don't get discouraged, don't give up, and try to boil down the decision to reasons. I paid probably 2-4K too much for my car, but it was local, so I assumed that shipping would have been the 2-4K if I had bought out of state. The weekend before I bought my car I looked at a 70 Road Runner clone. Nice solid car with a 440, but it had Mitsubishi door handles, custom murals, and was missing the heater box, glove box, and several odds and ends. It ran great and drove well. The asking price was 26 firm. Following weekend I look at a real 68 Road Runner, running and driving, but needing odds and ends for 26. It was much better and nicer than the clone I looked at the prior weekend, so that kind of edged me to make the decision to pay 26 for the real Road Runner. It would have been a fair price at 22-24, but judging by what I had seen over the past 5 years, and it being local made the decision.

Good Luck in your search!
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I think that it's hard to find any B-body Coronet/ Super Bee/Road Runner/GTX in the upper 30's-low 40's (68-70 Chargers are in a different class at the mid 50's price range) that doesn't need something. But, for that kind of scratch, you should be able to find a high quality car that only needs detailing & some easily replaceable items, but needs zero body and paint work.
 
jddodge said:
This on on FB looks not bad.
12900$
https://m.facebook.com/groups/1730143753878411?view=permalink&id=2502677633291682
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For 12,900 you get bubbled paint around the wheel wells, surface rust on the wing bases, rear corners of the inners, you get original paint inside and out that needs to be redone9 Add 10K, rust on the backside of everything, tired interior, etc etc etc.... Better to buy higher up and get a car that has these issues already taken care of. These things can lead to finding a bunch of hidden issues that will cost big time.
 
the mississippi madman said:
Best way to find them cheap is start cruising the back roads and peaking into barns
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Problem there is this being the Midwest, anything sitting in a barn or backyard is going to be a rotted husk.
 
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A&F said:
Problem there is this being the Midwest, anthing sitting in a barn or backyard is going to be a rotted husk.
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What part of the midwest are you in?:rolleyes:

Or are you in the witness protection program?:(
 
Ghostrider 67 said:
For 12,900 you get bubbled paint around the wheel wells, surface rust on the wing bases, rear corners of the inners, you get original paint inside and out that needs to be redone9 Add 10K, rust on the backside of everything, tired interior, etc etc etc.... Better to buy higher up and get a car that has these issues already taken care of. These things can lead to finding a bunch of hidden issues that will cost big time.
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Agreed. Dealer sent 100 photos. It’s a solid car but at $13k the fact that it’s a Coupe and a 318 makes it rather undesirable with the amount of work it would need.

Maybe at $8k...
 
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