stalling then starting problem.

[adk-roadrunner]

Hey guys I just took my 73 roadrunner with a 318 out of storage since the snow is finally gone. I started the car she fired right up and I let it run in the driveway for a while after checking all fluids about 20 minutes. I shut the car down and when I tried to restart nothing just crank and cranks. I continued to mess around trying to figure out what's up until about 45 minutes later I tried again and it fired right up. The following day I decided to go for a drive to a town about 30 minutes away to eat with friends warmed the car up the left got just to where the was little to no cell service in the middle of no where and the car stalls while going 60 like someone flipped a switch I was able to coast to a rest area luckily. I tried to crank the car and nothing screwed aroung same result so I had to call a flatbed to come and get me and my car. When he gets there he says pop the hood and pulls the center wire off the distributed from the coil and has me crank it and checks for spark which I had already tried and no spark except for one quick spark when you let off the key. He says to check the ballast resister as its a common mopar problem. He tows me home drops the car in the driveway so I tinker around again and test the ballast resister one side 5 ohms the other maybe .3 but fluctuating and I read one should be 5 and the other 1.2 . Well after testing it I get in the car turn the key and it fires right up so I went and bought a new one but I'm not sure if it will be the answer as I've read the only affect the running circuit and not the starting and she doesn't spark at all when it won't start. I put a new orange mop performance ecu last summer and Msd coil at the same time when I was diagnosing another running problem which I eventually fixed by replacing the Carb. So what do you guys think would be culprit here it seems to me something is getting hot quitting then working again after cooling.
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[Coyoteduster]

I have had faulty ignition switch's and/or wiring create at least some of these symptoms. :eusa_think:

 

[monaco66coupe]

My 69' 383 Coronet did that same thing at the most Inoportune time as well. Finally it went altogether. The coil starts good cold, but when it warmed up, the coil would go poop. New coil, no more problem.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

I hope its not the coil since I just bought it is there a way to test it with an ohm meter to see. I do still have the original ecu and coil.

 

[miller]

Sometimes it's impossible to check a coil for a short. Just nature of the beast. Coils are oil-filled, the oil heats while running...if there's a break in the wire, it's contacting while cool, but opens after getting heated up. That's when it quits.

Try your other coil, to see if it fixes the prob.

 

[monaco66coupe]

It is possible your Ignition switch is malfunctioning as well. If you have a column mounted switch. I had a 78' magnum do the same thing years ago, and the lever going down the column was attached to a connector that would engage the column to the car. That car also exhibited the same symptoms. I had to clean and replace some of the connectors. Does your 73' have something similar?

 

[Snowtrooper1966]