Starter Solenoid Clicks But No Start .....HELP

[RRcrazy]

1970 Roadrunner 383 4 speed tried to drive today but wouldnt start., at first thought the battery was drained but turned on lights and they were bright when tried to start. When I turn the key to the start position you can hear the solenoid click but the starter does not spin??? Tried jumping the Starter Relay same thing only a click no starter., I'm thinking it might be the starter relay. Any help appreciated......Thanks.:confused3:

 

[coloradodave]

If the lights stayed bright when you tried to start the motor the first thing I would do is check and clean both ends of both battery cables, paying close attention to the ground end of the negative cable.

 

[HawkRod]

If the lights stayed bright when you tried to start the motor the first thing I would do is check and clean both ends of both battery cables, paying close attention to the ground end of the negative cable.

X2. Also, lights aren't always a good indicator. Try jump starting the car to verify the battery is good.

If the battery is good and the connections are clean, then I would look at the starter. Try the 'Fonzie' trick. when trying to start it, tap on the starter solenoid with a wrench. It might be sticking a little bit and sometimes this will free it up.

 

[mopar 3 B]

If you are hearing a click relay is ok. Like mentioned above check battery terminals. Also check battery voltage, make sure starter has not come loose and all wires are on tight. Starter solenoid disk may have a burnt spot on it and not making contact. Also is the safety switch on your clutch working?

 

[nm9stheham]

No need to guess: this is easy to troublehsoot, either with a voltmeter or 12v test light, or with a simple wire jumper.

If you have a voltmeter or 12V test light, do the following:
-Check voltage out of the starter relay on the heavy brown or red wire going to the starter. If you see 12V there with the key in START, then the solenoid on the starter or the starter brushes are bad.
- If no voltage on this wire with the key in START, then your starter relay is bad.

If you only have a jumper then:
With the car in neutral and the parking brake set, jumper 12v from the battery + to the heavy red or brown wire running from the starter relay to the starter. If the starter engages, then it is the realy; if nothing happens, then the starter or its solenoid is bad.

Let us know what you find.

 

[RRcrazy]

Ok guys so I did clean all connections I jumped with a another battery and charger on jump setting still only a click and sounds like its trying to turn but nothing. I checked volts and same at battery and at starter terminals when cranking.....so it must be the starter motor RIGHT?? 2nd question I have Hooker Competition Headers can the OEM starter come out of the spacing between the headers and the steering column? Heard that steering coulmn might have to be removed.?

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

I had the same thing happen when I attempted to run the oem starter with a set of Hedman headers, and yes the starter was burned out in my case. I had pretty much zero clearance between the starter and one primary, and another primary ran right underneath it, probably not the best setup for starter longevity. Not sure what kind of clearance you have but, if those headers allow, I would switch to a mini-starter out of any late '90s- early '00 v8 dodge truck. Got mine from a junkyard for $65 and switched to Doug's headers and it's a world of difference. Way more clearance, quieter starting, turns the engine over faster than the old oem one did, and should be way easier to change out if it ever goes out again. hope this helps and good luck

 

[Basket case]

never had Hookers so I can't say for certain. I had to change the starter on my '69 383 4 speed rr, with Headmans. I had to remove one of the studs for the header after taking the header off the head, and this allowed the header to move enough to get the factory starter out.440 and you're unbolting a motor mount and jacking up the engine.

 

[nm9stheham]

Yes, it is the starter motor if you have the same volts at battery + and the big lead on the starter.

 

[arizona satellite]

sounds like you got it. hooker headers can be a real pain to remove an OEM starter, i agree with Mr. SpeedFreak do yourself a favor and go for the mini starter, I have hedman headers on my 67 satty with a 440 and a mini starter and have plenty of room to R&R without much trouble.