stock valve cover torque ? (440)

[Steverino]

I've been chasing valve cover leaks (among other issues) while sorting this car (again)

Same engine and heads (stock iron) sealed fine with cork and previous chrome edlebrock covers 3 yrs ago before I took it apart for body work etc

I swapped back to the original stamped steel covers from car's the orig 383
Holes and flanges didn't seem to be deformed, I gave a little tap or two on the bottom side of holes prior to assembling and painting

I had limited success with orig type felpro cork , lh side sealed well , until I retightened it (for no reason other than I looked at the specs), mistake, then that side leaked also

Black felpro VS50145R has worked well, but only when I ran a continuous smear of black rtv on both sides (the head sealing surface is looking a bit rough), so that took two gaskets to learn that on the rh side

Now I need more, because the lh side where cork failed due to tightening when I shouldn't have, I tried the blue moroso 93055 ?, dry as directed, and they recommend 80-100 in lbs, so I crept up to 80 (even feels too tight i.e. wrong), and it was dry for several miles of driving, then today while driving had a major tear/split near each bottom bolt

So my covers are still looking fairly flat on the bottom, but have a "bulge" in the middle when tightened down , so I restraighten before reinstalling, but I don't want to overtighten Hopefully I can still use'em, don't really want to see the chrome edlebrocks back on there

My service manual specs say 40 in lbs for stud/nuts, and 9 ft lbs for "valve tappet cover end bolt".....9 ft lbs seems too tight to me ? I think the 40 in lbs for the studs might be better for the bolts also ? Maybe I'm reading the specs (tightening reference at end of engine section) wrong ?

I'm thinking of just using the 40 in lbs on this next (and hopefully last !) attempt


thanks

 

[69Bee]

40 in/lbs

 

[khryslerkid]

I have a set of Cal Customs aluminum covers and they're not perfectly flat. This is what I used and they don't leak.

Start off with perfectly clean and dry valve covers. No silicone residue, no oil containment (clean bare metal with lacquer thinner or parts cleaner. Flatten out the area at each hole so it's flat, not dented from the last time they were tightened. Perfectly clean the head also in the same manner.

Use the black felpro gasket and glue it to the valve cover with 3M black weather strip adhesive. Let it dry.

Then apply an even coat of Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker to the gasket. 1/8" Thick.

Set the cover on the head immediately and only finger tighten the hardware till the gasket maker just starts to ooze out. Let it dry for one hour and then hand tighten with a 1/4 drive socket. You don't need to tighten them any more than if you were useing screws for fasteners and a screwdriver to tighten them.

Let the sealer cure for 24 hours before running the engine. Guarantee this will work if you follow the directions to the letter.

 

[dvw]

Agreed with the above post. I use a nut driver to tighten.No need for a ratchet handle.
Doug

 

[Don Frelier]

I agree with a nut driver and sealer approach, but if you want something that will last and is removeable and reuseable:
Moroso Perm-Align Valve Cover Gaskets 93055 (Summit)
They are pricey but very nice.

 

[Steverino]

I agree with a nut driver and sealer approach, but if you want something that will last and is removeable and reuseable:
Moroso Perm-Align Valve Cover Gaskets 93055 (Summit)
They are pricey but very nice.

I did try these....complete rupture along the lower edge near both lower bolts
Lasted for two or three 10 mi road tests, then was dripping so bad down side of engine I though it must've been rear main ! Installed as directed by moroso tech 80 in lbs (they rec 80-100 in lbs), still feels too tight to me, but there was the result....all over the floor

I actually called them to ask about use of any sealer, they said not recommended
many companies don't recommend sealer (rtv) because it can cancel out the "reusability" feature they like to "sell"

Me , I'll be happy to just stop the leaks
I know the factory valve covers can be a bit flimsy compared to newer cast alum units (which I think many of these "super gaskets" are more designed towards

In retrospect, I wish i had "dressed" the head surface a bit more when the exh manifolds weren't on there

I'll do some light sanding with 220 ish on the heads....going to use the felpro VS50145 with thin smear of rtv (mopar eng sealant), and tighten in steps as some of you have indicated....and definitely NOT more than 40 in lbs this time!

thanks again