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Stripped Holley carb fuel inlet

davezl900

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Hello all. I'm new here but have been watching for a long time. I tried searching for anything related to my problem but no luck. I have a 1970 6 pack set up and the front carb, Holley #4382 has stripped threads on the inlet. I'm wondering if anyone know a fix for this? Maybe an adapter with longer engagement that will get into the remaining intact threads or a helicoil set for this? I called Holley this morning and they said they no longer carry parts or the outboard carbs themselves. Only the center carb is available. Are there any other model bowls I could swap with? A Thanks for reading

You are in the wrong forum to ask for parts for sale.....
 
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I'm not aware of any repairs that are available for the 7/8 thread for the fuel inlet nut. You will have to find a replacement fuel bowl. Outboard cores pop up often enough for 200 to 300 bucks. Try calling Allstate Carburetors in NY. They also rebuild, they may have a solution for your bowl or perhaps have a good used bowl. Very helpful people. Best of luck.
 
Welcome Dave from Action City !

I'd be reaming, re-threading a size bigger and making an adapter back to the original thread.
 
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Hello all. I'm new here but have been watching for a long time. I tried searching for anything related to my problem but no luck. I have a 1970 6 pack set up and the front carb, Holley #4382 has stripped threads on the inlet. I'm wondering if anyone know a fix for this? Maybe an adapter with longer engagement that will get into the remaining intact threads or a helicoil set for this? I called Holley this morning and they said they no longer carry parts or the outboard carbs themselves. Only the center carb is available. Are there any other model bowls I could swap with? A Thanks for reading

You are in the wrong forum to ask for parts for sale.....
You need a new float bowl. The inlet fitting threads are integral with the float bowl. Try and place an ad in the want to buy section. Any Holley 4160 series center hung float bowl should work as the accelerator pump (not used, just the mounting boss), float level inlet/adjustment, sight plug are all in the bowl assembly. The correct numbers are stamped into the air horn only the casting number is on the bowl. Just make sure you use the correct crush washer under the inlet fitting and use two wrenches when reassembling the fuel line. I believe the inlet fitting hex nut size is 11/16"..........just my opinion of course.......
BOB RENTON
 
Chicago Carburetor - Or the cheap way is to use any front v-bowl and block the accelerator pump hole with JB Weld epoxy
 
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You need a new float bowl. The inlet fitting threads are integral with the float bowl. Try and place an ad in the want to buy section. Any Holley 4160 series center hung float bowl should work as the accelerator pump (not used, just the mounting boss), float level inlet/adjustment, sight plug are all in the bowl assembly. The correct numbers are stamped into the air horn only the casting number is on the bowl. Just make sure you use the correct crush washer under the inlet fitting and use two wrenches when reassembling the fuel line. I believe the inlet fitting hex nut size is 11/16"..........just my opinion of course.......
BOB RENTON
how would he seal off the fuel leak from the hole for elastomer valve
 
At first thought, if there was enough material on the inlet nut, this is what I would do in my shop. Most people don't have this capability. I would thread mill the existing threads deeper till I had good threads then clean the hole up. Then I would remove the threads of the inlet nut and do a hard press fit with a bushing. I would then machine the threads to match the bowl threads. But that is only if there was enough material on the inlet nut to bush it.

I have done crazier stuff..........
 
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At first thought, if there was enough material on the inlet nut, this is what I would do in my shop. Most people don't have this capability. I would thread mill the existing threads deeper till I had good threads then clean the hole up. Then I would remove the threads of the inlet nut and do a hard press fit with a bushing. I would then machine the threads to to match the bowl threads. But that is only if there was enough material on the inlet nut to bush it.

I have done crazier stuff..........
Exactly, but it seems even the oldest of our members have joined the throw away society of the Gen X'rs...
 
how would he seal off the fuel leak from the hole for elastomer valve
Make a plate to cover the pump opening. Use a pump gasket.
Move the new bowl to the rear carb to hide the cover, rear bowl to the front carb. ( the float level obsevation hole might be different location too)
 
FWIW, I 've used this dual feed bowl when I was unable to find a six pack outboard. The sight plug is a little higher and ends up on the driver side. It's not machined for a pump....

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You can use an epoxy adhesive-sealer on the fitting which threads into the bowl. I'd done it before, first time about 50 years ago.
 
See post #10?
You must have misunderstood my reference.....the accelerator pump holes for the elastomer inlet valve and outlet passage are NOT drilled.....you do not need a pump gasket or housing mounting screws.....NOTHING IS NEEDED, except for the float, float inlet needle, float adjustment nut, gaskets......I've been fixing, rebuilding, modifying Holley's for 50+ years.......FYI.......
BOB RENTON
 
You must have misunderstood my reference.....the accelerator pump holes for the elastomer inlet valve and outlet passage are NOT drilled.....you do not need a pump gasket or housing mounting screws.....NOTHING IS NEEDED, except for the float, float inlet needle, float adjustment nut, gaskets......I've been fixing, rebuilding, modifying Holley's for 50+ years.......FYI.......
BOB RENTON
Kinda depends on what bowl you are talking about .
I was referring to using a standard front bowl from a four barrel, assuming he couldn't find the proper 2300 end carb bowl.
You are right.... ASSUMING he can find a replacement six barrel bowl.
 
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