Strut removal....NOT! help appreciated

[Just wheels]

Have '66 Coronet rebuilding front suspension. Took LCA off, cannot for the life of me remove the front nut on strut to get it out. Used heat, PB Blaster.......

Also can't even get a socket in there as the radiator is in the way. So having to use adjustable wrench on the nut vice grips on the strut. Now using 2 nuts on LCA end to hold the shaft, nothing is working.

Getting ready to give up on replacing that bushing and just put everything back together.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Cut off wheel will take of the nut, or if the rod is bent and you want to replace it, cut off wheel will take care of that also.

 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Maybe time to upgrade to the PST's....

 

[Just wheels]

Can't get a cutting wheel in there. Can't get the strut out. This is example pic, what do I use to hold on to the strut while turning the nut? Vice grips?

 

[Beekeeper]

did you remove the nut on the other end of the strut at the lower control arm? if so you should re install it and tighten it up it helps keep the strut from turning while removing the the nut on the k member . thats also a good place to use a wrench to keep it from turning

 

[Just wheels]

did you remove the nut on the other end of the strut at the lower control arm? if so you should re install it and tighten it up it helps keep the strut from turning while removing the the nut on the k member . thats also a good place to use a wrench to keep it from turning

I'll try that thanks.

 

[Yatzee]

The first thing you have to do is secure the rod from turning. A 24 inch pipe wrench will surely do the job and if the jaws are adjusted properly it will not chew up the rod. Next you need to heat the nut and to do that a MAP gas portable bottle will do just fine or a cutting torch set on low. Propane would be OK if it weren't for the long flame they produce.It will heat quickly but don't over do it ( not red hot by any means ). Have the right wrench handy and after verifying that the thread pitch on the rod is right hand, proceed to brake the nut free. Unless you have an assistant, rest the handle of the wrench on the garage floor as you loosen and remove the nut. Be sure the jaws of the pipe wrench remain tightly engaged on the rod. Not everyone has pipe wrenches but you can rent one in a pinch. Keep the wrench ( or whatever clamping device you use) as close to the nut end as possible and rest it's handle against something solid as you undo the nut. Wouldn't an impact wrench come in handy here?

 

[Just wheels]

Thanks Yatzee! Yeah just outfitted my garage with impact tools and compressor, but there is not enough room for a deep sock and a shallow sock is ...well too shallow. lol

Best I can do is I have a long handled adjustable, going to look for pipe wrench too. Probably need it for the other side anyway.

The one weekend disc conversion has turned into a two month front end rebuild! :clock:

The first thing you have to do is secure the rod from turning. A 24 inch pipe wrench will surely do the job and if the jaws are adjusted properly it will not chew up the rod. Next you need to heat the nut and to do that a MAP gas portable bottle will do just fine or a cutting torch set on low. Propane would be OK if it weren't for the long flame they produce.It will heat quickly but don't over do it ( not red hot by any means ). Have the right wrench handy and after verifying that the thread pitch on the rod is right hand, proceed to brake the nut free. Unless you have an assistant, rest the handle of the wrench on the garage floor as you loosen and remove the nut. Be sure the jaws of the pipe wrench remain tightly engaged on the rod. Not everyone has pipe wrenches but you can rent one in a pinch. Keep the wrench ( or whatever clamping device you use) as close to the nut end as possible and rest it's handle against something solid as you undo the nut. Wouldn't an impact wrench come in handy here?

 

[Boise68]

did you remove the nut on the other end of the strut at the lower control arm? if so you should re install it and tighten it up it helps keep the strut from turning while removing the the nut on the k member . thats also a good place to use a wrench to keep it from turning

What Beekeeper said.

Also, give PB Blaster a second chance with repeated applications and it should work after a couple days. I went through the same process as you. To be honest after replacing all the bushings etc, the strut rod bushings in my kit didn't fit and I ended up using the old bushings since they didn't look worn out. You might get some ideas from my build at http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?48966-Here-is-what-s-on-my-table

 

[Just wheels]

Boise68, thanks! Checked out your build, man I feel so far away from being there but hoping to be done by the time summer breaks in Tampa. (End of September).

You have an awesome ride!

What Beekeeper said.

Also, give PB Blaster a second chance with repeated applications and it should work after a couple days. I went through the same process as you. To be honest after replacing all the bushings etc, the strut rod bushings in my kit didn't fit and I ended up using the old bushings since they didn't look worn out. You might get some ideas from my build at http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?48966-Here-is-what-s-on-my-table

 

[miller]

Might not matter, but looks like the nut is a self-locking type (nylon). Usually has a 3-legged castle nut, and cotter pin.

 

[Coronet 14]

There may be some of the pin still left in the hole just ahead of the nut.

 

[Ron Ward]

Beekeeper offered the best method. I've always had good luck that way.

 

[Just wheels]

Thanks everybody, gonna try reinstalling the LCA and tightening down the strut nut + more PB Blaster. Hoping to get it resolved this weekend. If that doesn't work then on to the pipe wrench.

FYI- the pic I used is an example off google, my front end is no where near that clean!!:laughing11:

 

[Lelo 500]

You need to double nut the other side, that will keep the nut from turning while you get the other side loose.

 

[Just wheels]

Reinstalling the LCA and cranking down on strut with impact gun worked when nothing else did. Thanks everyone! Now on to tie rods ends with BFH.

 

[miller]

Might not matter, but looks like the nut is a self-locking type (nylon). Usually has a 3-legged castle nut, and cotter pin.

Ah...remembered that one wrong. Self-locker is right. Castle on the torsion bar receiver.
Heads up...don't get old!!