• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

supercharging 318

adk-roadrunner

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:05 AM
Joined
Jul 2, 2012
Messages
560
Reaction score
75
Location
upstate ny
So I've been trying to decide what to do with my 73 roadrunner it has the original 318 but I'd really like some more power I was gonna go bigger but not sure now. A lot of my buddy's keep saying I should just work with the original because its just cooler. The engine in it I was gonna rebuild anyways to keep using till I do the big upgrade. So I thought wow a paxton supercharger would be cool or hey a striker looks cool as well or what about both together lol even cooler. Does anyone know anyone who has supercharged one and what they did to the engine first and how it worked out for them.
 
Imo, the rods in the teen will be your week link. They are generally smaller than the 340/360 rods but if you kept your boost down to a few psi, they should live. A few psi sounds like not much but it'll boost it pretty well. It also has a cast crank but I would think it should be ok too.
 
Not trying to argue, BUT, the only other rods besides the 340, 360 and 318 rods were the 273 and early 318 rods and I mean early LA 318. I don't know when they started using them, but the 318s got the 340/360 sized rods too......certainly by 1973. I've torn down a lot of 318s that had the 340/360 rods. In fact, I've never torn down a 318 that had the smaller rods, just some 273s. But the early LA 318s did get them for a short time. That said, I would use the smaller rods in a second. Did you know the Mopar Performance lightweight rod was based on the 273 rod? You hardly ever see them anymore and when they pop up on ebay, they go for a mint. They are light as all hell and as long as they mag good with good rod bolts, they will make one zing up right quick like. But with a blower, you would need the bigger rods if you don't already have them.

Here's the small rods. I'm temped to jump on them but I already have a set. lol He says in that ad they go all the way to 74, but I dont think that's right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-65-66-6...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1c2b7aa8&vxp=mtr
 
Well I will definitely will be rebuilding and if I go with the stroker kit it comes with a steel scat crank and H beam rods I guess I could ask the kit maker if it will work with a supercharger.
 
Well I will definitely will be rebuilding and if I go with the stroker kit it comes with a steel scat crank and H beam rods I guess I could ask the kit maker if it will work with a supercharger.
if you go with a kit make sure you watch the comp ratio.too much comp and you either make the supercharger usless(so underdriven)or you will need to start your car with a grenade pin.:grin:
 
Grenade pin. Das a goodun. I've built a few blown motors through the years. My premise has always been that if you spend all that money on one part, use HELL out of it. I like overdrivin um and runnin LOW static compression. Highest I had was 7:1. That way, you actually use the blower and you get to hear it good, too. lol
 
Not trying to argue, BUT, the only other rods besides the 340, 360 and 318 rods were the 273 and early 318 rods and I mean early LA 318. I don't know when they started using them, but the 318s got the 340/360 sized rods too......certainly by 1973. I've torn down a lot of 318s that had the 340/360 rods. In fact, I've never torn down a 318 that had the smaller rods, just some 273s. But the early LA 318s did get them for a short time. That said, I would use the smaller rods in a second. Did you know the Mopar Performance lightweight rod was based on the 273 rod? You hardly ever see them anymore and when they pop up on ebay, they go for a mint. They are light as all hell and as long as they mag good with good rod bolts, they will make one zing up right quick like. But with a blower, you would need the bigger rods if you don't already have them.

Here's the small rods. I'm temped to jump on them but I already have a set. lol He says in that ad they go all the way to 74, but I dont think that's right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-65-66-6...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1c2b7aa8&vxp=mtr
The last teen I tore down was a 67 from a Coronet 440 and although it had full floating pins, the rods were smaller than the 340 rods. Thought about saving them but already have too much rods laying around so they went into the scrap pile. If they had been the same size as the 340 I would have kept them for sure. I guess that's early enough LA eh lol
 
The stroker kit says you will have 9:5 to 1 with new 64 cc heads does that mean I would have more or less compression with the stock heads and is that too high.I'd hate to lower the compression so much that if I ditche the supercharger it would be horrible but maybe that's the trade off. Also I think the SC kit said 7-10 lbs boost
 
The last teen I tore down was a 67 from a Coronet 440 and although it had full floating pins, the rods were smaller than the 340 rods. Thought about saving them but already have too much rods laying around so they went into the scrap pile. If they had been the same size as the 340 I would have kept them for sure. I guess that's early enough LA eh lol

Right. All the little rods were floated AND some of the 318 big rods goin into the 70s were floted like the 340. But if the 360 ever came floated, I aint ever seen one. I don't they ever made 360 pistons with that provision. Go figure.
 
The stroker kit says you will have 9:5 to 1 with new 64 cc heads does that mean I would have more or less compression with the stock heads and is that too high.I'd hate to lower the compression so much that if I ditche the supercharger it would be horrible but maybe that's the trade off. Also I think the SC kit said 7-10 lbs boost
a motor truely built to make good horsepower with forced induction is normally kinda wimpy without it.low comp and blower cams dont make a ton of power without the extra volume.build a good street motor and use nos unless you are all about the look.then just run an underdriven charger.
 
Anything that starts with a nine is too much compression for a blower on pump gas. Purtnear anything with a eight is too. Although opinions vary.
 
Boosted 318ci

Are we talking about a LA 318 or a Magnum 5.2ltr/318ci ?? Are we talking about a roots, screw or centrifugal type superharger... Need to clarify, be specific, what the intended use will be also, is it just a street cruiser/brawler or is it going to be a track car or street/strip car ??, 91-oct, 93-oct, E-85, Race gas, methanol, what fuel are you planning on using ??... Doesn't really matter anyway, but the Magnum or RHS heads has far better flowing heads to begin with, before porting... O-ringed block deck, w/solid copper head gaskets, go to 0.050"-0.060" gaskets {An Absolute Must, if you want it to live under boosted power & not pop head gaskets regularly}, with that 9.5:1 stroker kit, that will knock the compression down enough, you will have a killer little boosted/supercharged 318, I would absolutely put an ignition retard tunable ignition system, for when boost comes on, that way then compression isn't as much of "real big" issue, you just back out more timing under more boost, then a pop-off relief valve {is an absolute must also}, to get rid of boosted pressure & back pressure, especially when you let off the throttle, after a balls out run & also an inner cooler {absolutely necessary}, to keep your intake Fuel/Air charge cool & dense, any boosted engine creates a ton of heat & that's your real enemy even more than compression, it will scream... I had a POS 100k mile 5.2ltr/318 97 Dakota 2wd that had a Powerdyne Centrifugal kit, I got at a swap meet, for $500, spent $1500 more to make it right, it was actually made for a SB-Chevy, I adapted it to the 5.2ltr/318 Magnum truck engine, it worked great, like with stated above parts & improvements, upto about 7psi-8psi 400-425hp @ 9:1 compression, beyond that, either lower the compression, with forged piston or with thicker gaskets to drop the compression &/or back off the timing a bunch more under boost, low compression isn't the only way to go, there's alway a way, you need to be creative sometimes & need to think out of the regular engine builders box... What type of fuel are you planning on running ??, if you use E-85 & it's redily available in your area, you can go higher compression easily.... Procharger, Whipple, Powerdyne, Magnum, B&M, BDS, Dyer, Noppie {spelling?}, Hampton, Littlfield, GMC Roots, Screwcharger & many more... With the proper camshaft for a blown engine is everything, beyond the ignition & bottom end durability & a quailty properly tuned & adaquate fuel system, intended for forced thru induction, I highly suggest you look into that seriously also , if it ever goes lean it's history & chances of banging/backfiring the blower, burning valves or poping head gaskets goes up ten fold... By the way it aint cheap, it's probably far less expensive to build a 500hp N/A 318/390+ci 4" stroker, with ported Aluminum cylider heads & a single 4bbl, Absolutely do your own research... :headbang:
 

Attachments

  • Quickfuel 175gph Electric Pump & Built in Bypass regulator $199.99.jpg
    14.5 KB · Views: 203
  • Quickfuel E-85 Conversion full kits.jpg
    22.9 KB · Views: 320
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top