Swaping over to 4 speed

[swampdonkey]

Going to install a 4 speed in my 65 satelitte
Tired of the leaking automatic.
I rebuilt the transmission collecting parts for the 4 speed change over.
I understand there may be issues with pilot bearing bore depth. I don't like the idea of cutting the end of the input shaft so I'm wondering if anyone has drilled the hole deeper in the crankshaft and whay was the method for doing this.

 

[tak419]

If your crankshaft does not have the pilot hole long enough then yes you can drill it. BUT either way do not use a pilot bushing. More than likely your crank will require the bushing that has the undersized O.D.. the hole may not be true and could cause issues with the input shaft. I took my chances and used the bushing and I had to pull my tranny and install the bearing. Drill the hole if need be and install the bearing and be done with it.

 

[91r/t]

Well ideally, you'd want the crank out of the engine so you could machine it as the hole needs to be dead nuts center so the bushing rides centered. I wouldn't stress too much on shortening the input shaft. It is it's own piece and can be replaced fairly cheap if you ever wanna go back. The Dodge Dakota uses a roller bearing for the input shaft that I have heard alot about. It's probably the best route to go as you'll never get that hole true to your input shaft with a drill and using a bushing. I believe the bearing installs in the ID before the furthest hole in the crank and would be a way better option for your case. Just as stated above, it would keep your input shaft true without having to worry about the hole being exactly centered and shortening the input shaft.

 

[swampdonkey]

Well ideally, you'd want the crank out of the engine so you could machine it as the hole needs to be dead nuts center so the bushing rides centered. I wouldn't stress too much on shortening the input shaft. It is it's own piece and can be replaced fairly cheap if you ever wanna go back. The Dodge Dakota uses a roller bearing for the input shaft that I have heard alot about. It's probably the best route to go as you'll never get that hole true to your input shaft with a drill and using a bushing. I believe the bearing installs in the ID before the furthest hole in the crank and would be a way better option for your case. Just as stated above, it would keep your input shaft true without having to worry about the hole being exactly centered and shortening the input shaft.

Ok so looks like my best option is installing the pilot bearing from a dodge dakota second time I've heard this. Thanks for the information.

 

[4mulas]

https://www.moparonlineperformance.com/product-p/p4876056aa.htm

It installs flush with the end of the crankshaft, one side has a chamfer on it to help it get started. Like @91r/t said, just cut the input shaft, redo a chamfer on it and install. As he mentioned it’s a separate piece and not all that expensive to replace if you ever wanted or had to, but if you use a bearing on whatever motor you use you’ll never need too.

Note, there are two different mopar performance part numbers for the same bearing. One is 3 times the cost of the other. That’s the only difference.

 

[dadsbee]

 

[moperformance]

My first "conversion" wouldn't allow the tranny to pull up flush to the bell housing. That's when I heard about there being two cranks (actually one was drilled out a little deeper for a standard tranny). I was about 18 and just knew I'd ruined everything. At least I stopped before I snapped one of the ears off the tranny.
The mechanic across the street said to bring it over. He cut about 1/4" off the end and tapered it slightly. I swore the man was a genius because it actually worked! This was prob mid 70's not a Dakota in sight
Now a days it's easy. Good luck

 

[swampdonkey]

Thanks for the information you guys are a big help. Things are much easier with YouTube and the mopar b body forum

 

[towtruckAl]

Ok now then what is the diff in depth in the crank . am also changinging over one of my cars .

 

[swampdonkey]

Ok now then what is the diff in depth in the crank . am also changinging over one of my cars .

I believe what needs to be done is put the bell housing on the motor then take a measurement from the face of the housing to the depth of the hole where the input shaft goes then measure the length of the input shaft on the 4 speed to see how much a difference there is then make the cut on the input shaft. I'm not exactly sure how much tolerance is needeneeded though. Does someone know this measure?

 

[towtruckAl]

thank you makes sense .

 

[4mulas]

Another view

 

[4mulas]

Are you using a scatter shield on the Bee?

View attachment 904579 View attachment 904580

 

[matthon]

I've swapped 2 cars and it was obvious that the hole on one wasn't deep enough.
I had it machined and put the bushing in, no issues in 10 years.

You might get lucky and it's already there awaiting a new bushing. I popped the old one out by putting grease in there and then a wooden dowel, out in seconds.

 

[dadsbee]

Are you using a scatter shield on the Bee?

Since '79.. when the GF's Brother lost his right foot in his GTO.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I post this on 4 speed or bellhousing swaps. Should be done.

 

[swampdonkey]

I post this on 4 speed or bellhousing swaps. Should be done.View attachment 905164 View attachment 905166

Thanks for the post Fran good information