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Take a look at this, and offer opinions or ask questions. Steering shaft modification.

biomedtechguy

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The mechanic who is doing a myriad of work on my 70 Roadrunner has installed the QA1 K-member and Borgeson power steering box. There is a "U-Joint" style coupler that is part of the Borgeson power steering-from-manual-steering conversion. The focus of work at this shop is 4WD suspension and drivetrain components, so I know he has done steering shaft mods many times.
Take a look at this and the explanation, and offer your feedback please. I don't think anything is wrong with it, and there are set screws in place for an added measure of safety. I want other eyes on this so I can get input. Thanks.
Picture and his explanation follows:
KIMG0168.jpg

Steering column modified and reinstalled .made it telescopic so the steering wheel can be truly centered.
I asked about a pin or other safety measure to keep the shaft from possibly coming out of the "slip collar".
Set screws.now the shaft can slide off of the gear box and move a spline or more and go back on.
Done it numerous times. Old cars have a solid shaft thru the column, newer cars telescope.
 
Seeing how it is installed and set to the correct length, I would weld the "D" shaft to the steering column shaft. I don't see a problem with the set screw on the coupler, but you could remove it, and drill it for a pin. As far as old columns were solid, and newer can telescope (collapsible!), this was for safety reasons, and not so that they could be adjustable.
 
i would prefer a pin, set screw can come loose.
otherwise it looks good.
 
Thanks for the rapid responses.
Unfortunately the last shop that replaced a leaking manual steering box with another manual box I provided put the steering wheel in crooked somehow, probably the pitman arm was not "centered" and never put the pin back in the factory coupler, and I hate to admit I drove it like that for a couple of years.
It seems like the only way for it to decouple would be some kind of force that would cause the steering wheel end to move away from the steering box end, and I don't know how that could happen.
I don't know much about what seems like a simple shaft and coupler.
 
Can you turn the steering wheel 180* so we can see the other side of it? Don't see why that wouldn't work but cars are a bit flexible and that's the reason for the factory coupler. It did allow for a slight misalignment....then along came that rag joint later on.
 
Seeing how it is installed and set to the correct length, I would weld the "D" shaft to the steering column shaft. I don't see a problem with the set screw on the coupler, but you could remove it, and drill it for a pin. As far as old columns were solid, and newer can telescope (collapsible!), this was for safety reasons, and not so that they could be adjustable.




Although the first collapsible steering column was invented in 1934, . However, in recent years, the need for increased safety in vehicles has led to the development of innovative steering columns which collapse on frontal impact for all types of vehicles, including commercial ones.
 
Can you turn the steering wheel 180* so we can see the other side of it?
My mind is powerful, but I have to work on my telekinesis skills. I'm not around my car, but I plan on getting filled in on the details when I get to the shop. Thanks for the reply.
 
Although the first collapsible steering column was invented in 1934, . However, in recent years, the need for increased safety in vehicles has led to the development of innovative steering columns which collapse on frontal impact for all types of vehicles, including commercial ones.
And they didn't use collapsible columns in ChryCo cars until 67 but don't know if that was across the board. If my thinking is correct, it was federally mandated for all mans in this country for 67....
 
Maybe put some thread lock on the screw so it can't work loose?
 
Personally, if there’s at 1 inch of double d shaft going into the column, I’d leave it. Why? Well if your ever in front end accident, you’ll have 2 pieces of slip in the column, the factory nylon and your double d.

Also the pitman arm only goes on 1 way due to a master spline. So if your steering wheel isn’t centered, get the weight off the front, center the wheel and then adjust the tie rod coupler.
 
Easy way to tell if you column is collapsible is look at the steel mesh at the bottom of the column near the mount plate, the shaft slides inside of itself and the mesh will collapse... not sure what year they started that. The joint reminds me of the one on my92 Dakota and its very similar in concept where it slides in to the main shaft and is not pinned or welded I think I would leave it alone .. where can it go? Both ends are mounted solid..
 
Just to reiterate, this guy works with suspensions for 4WD vehicles a lot, and I have yet to find some aspect of "vehicle" anything that he hasn't done or couldn't do. The spectrum of what I asked if he could do was broad, from welding in subframe connectors to front suspension to brakes, hydraulic throwout bearing and bellhousing runout check, Vintage Air AC, and the Wraptor serpentine belt and accessories system, and Wilwood brakes, plus the Dakota Digital gauges.
I was actually surprised when he said he could do everything.
My point is ultimately I trust the work he does, but I certainly appreciate other eyes on something I'm not familiar with AND is so important from a safety perspective.
 
I have my column apart on the shop floor as we speak and just looking at the mechanics of it the outer housing with the mesh is made to collapse and the inner shaft has 2 plastic shear pins as well which will allow it to collapse...I think...
I'm with others I would drill and pin it
 
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I appreciate all who have replied!
This is a big deal, and chances are I'm not going to personally modify anything, but if I can explain why I want it pinned or have questions about it, I have to be able to explain and not sound like I'm disparaging his work. This guy is a treasure and I don't want to piss him off.
 
Well another option would be to get an Ididit or Flaming River column and they do have direct fit columns for your year.

You NEVER pin the double d shaft going into the steering column, EVER! It’s only pinned or set screw with a drilled dimple on the joint side.
 
I just went through this conversion on my steering column, though mine is round, not the double-D style. The gearbox has a groove in the splined shaft that accepts the set screw, so unless the set screw backs out 2-3 full turns, the u-joint isn't going anywhere. Some loctite or it looks like he's added a jam nut would be plenty to keep it backing out. There should be no tension on the shaft which might pull it off the gearbox, so the only concern would be vibration working things loose.
 
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