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Thread lock on single bolt cam?

Charger21

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I have a 1973 Charger with a 400 (single bolt cam). I just replaced my timing chain and gears with a double roller. I did not touch the cam. When I torque back down my cam bolt should I use thread locker? If so blue or red?

Should I use my original bolt or should I replace?

Thanks!
 
A dab of blue if anything, typically after I remove a bolt that has been previously torqued I like to replace it if possible.
 
I replaced my factory grade 5 bolt with a grade 8 from hardware store - Pretty sure it's 1" long

Used factory cupped washer

Blue locktite
 
problem with a grade 8 bolt is that you are threading into cast iron
Grade 5 is plenty for cast iron
you want the bolt to stretch
grade 8 will not stretch at the factory torque and if you do torque it to stretch you can strip the cast iron
yes on the locktite
and you can reuse the bolt- you are not getting close to "torque to yield"
 
I guess I'm in the minority so to speak, I don't use thread locker on the cam bolt. I just torque it to spec.
Don't think the factory used thread locker back in the day did they?
 
I guess I'm in the minority so to speak, I don't use thread locker on the cam bolt. I just torque it to spec.
Don't think the factory used thread locker back in the day did they?
I am with you. Whats the tapered washer for if it needs thread locker. I know some like to replace every bolt taken out. FSM says nothing about replacing bolts. In a raceing engine yes.
 
I've put a couple engines together now and both were never apart, I found no evidence of thread sealer or anything. The bolt uses a concave washer that puts preload on the bolt and acts sort of like a lock washer. At 35lbs torque it's not going to really stretch a lot and engine rotation is in the tightening direction.
 
I've put a couple engines together now and both were never apart, I found no evidence of thread sealer or anything. The bolt uses a concave washer that puts preload on the bolt and acts sort of like a lock washer. At 35lbs torque it's not going to really stretch a lot and engine rotation is in the tightening direction.
Not so. Crank turns clockwise and thats a right hand thread bolt. The cam doesnt turn counter clockwise to put into a tightening position.
 
Not so. Crank turns clockwise and thats a right hand thread bolt. The cam doesnt turn counter clockwise to put into a tightening position.
The cam and bolt both are traveling in the tightening direction.

Same concept as right side lug nuts being RH thread and left side lug nuts being LH.
 
there's no mention of "thread locker" in the service manuals because for all practical purposes there wasn't any. Loctite back in the '60's was difficult to get and very little knowledge of it. it didn't become more common until the '70's and still wasn't that easy to get. there wasn't any going to the auto-zone and picking up Loctite when these cars were built. perhaps until someone experiences the bolt coming loose or falling out do they realize the benefits of Loctite. there is a reason why that in '66 hemi's went to 3 bolt.
 
Do not use a grade 8 bolt as it expands at a different rate than cast so will work against you
 
I use a very small dab of red....nothing wrong with a bit of added insurance imo. I've also reused the factory cap screw and have used new grade 8's before with no problems.
 
there's no mention of "thread locker" in the service manuals because for all practical purposes there wasn't any. Loctite back in the '60's was difficult to get and very little knowledge of it. it didn't become more common until the '70's and still wasn't that easy to get. there wasn't any going to the auto-zone and picking up Loctite when these cars were built. perhaps until someone experiences the bolt coming loose or falling out do they realize the benefits of Loctite. there is a reason why that in '66 hemi's went to 3 bolt.
And I always though the 3 bolt was due to the greater load of valve components on the gear connection.
 
IMO, The Belleville washer should handle the job. There's nothing wrong with adding a drop of Loctite. Lol, Don't you just love finding a bolt someone coated the whole length with red?
I thought the 3 bolt insurance was drilling and wiring the heads.
 
Years ago I too used a dab of Blue Loctite on the cam bolt, and it certainly can't hurt (unless you coat all the bolt threads with it (especially the red type). Guess in the last few years I decided that it just wasn't necessary. But if it makes you feel more secure about your build then go for it.
 
IMO, The Belleville washer should handle the job. There's nothing wrong with adding a drop of Loctite. Lol, Don't you just love finding a bolt someone coated the whole length with red?
I thought the 3 bolt insurance was drilling and wiring the heads.
A buddy of mine that was building rear ends here and there would drill the pinion nut and shaft and insert a roll pin. I asked him why he was doing that instead of just using Lock-tite. His reason was he didn't trust it. About a year or so later he needed a complete 3rd member for his own car and I told him come get one that was laying around here. I pulled the pinion nut (42 case) and laid down a thin bead of red across several threads and stuck it back on :D knowing he was probably going to change the seal pretty soon. 6 months later he had to fight that nut off and complaining about it all the way. He didn't have and impact at the time and had to do it by hand lol It convince him though.
 
Do not use a grade 8 bolt as it expands at a different rate than cast so will work against you

And All The ARP Bolts That Everyone Uses To Attach The Gear , Explain

Anyways , this didn't turn out so well over on Moparts

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