Tie rod ends replacement

[fwi]

How difficult is it to replace both inners and outers, I am planning on doing this by myself with no help here.......and do I really need that "special inner tie rod removal tool" that I saw on a Utube video?

 

[khryslerkid]

To start off, you'll have right hand threaded ends and left hand treaded ends. Pay attention to what's what.

Loosen the clamps and spray the adjusters up real good with penetrating oil. The tool you are talking about, actually fits in the slot of the adjuster and opens the sleeve somewhat releasing the pressure on the threads. It's not really needed if you can get the adjuster to turn with a set of channel locks.

Remove one end at a time and count the turns. Replace the new one counting the same amount of turns.

Tighten the clamps, installing them the same as you found them. They should be very close to being within alignment specs but if in doubt take it to the front end shop for an alignment.

You can take measurements before disassembly just to have a reference. Good luck!

 

[mmissile]

Buy quality parts. It's an easy job....and you can do a tape-measure alignment on the front and rear of the tires, till you get it to a shop.

 

[Cranky]

Last time I took mine to the alignment shop, they said my toe was out just bit but the rest was fine. On the drive home, the car felt like it wanted to fall over and the front tires scrubbed like crazy on each turn. Tape measure check showed it to have 1" of toe in. Morons. I align my own cars now.

If you don't have a small ball joint fork, you can 'body work' the areas around the holes where the tapered joints fit into. Just have to use bigger hammers. Never had to use a fork on them when doing that. An old timer front end guy showed me that trick a long time ago......now I'm the old timer lol

 

[Fran Blacker]

Guy told me take 2 hammers smack both sides of where the tapered goes through drag link same on steering arm on ball joint. I've done it with one hammer. I have the tool now, not big $$.

 

[WileE]

Firstly, you don't need any "inner tierod tool", that's only for rack-and-pinion steering gear. The only alignment adjustment you'll need for doing tierods is your " toe-in". That's how much the front of the tires point inward versus the rear. that should be 1/8". you can measure this on a flat floor with the tires/steering wheel straight & in centered position. The distance between the fronts of the tires versus the distance between the rear of the tires. This is a very simplistic explanation. The front distance should be narrower by 1/8" than the rear.

 

[SublimeSixpack]

If you don't have a small ball joint fork, you can 'body work' the areas around the holes where the tapered joints fit into.

Cranky, what do you mean by 'body work'? Just curious.

 

[WileE]

You can use a pickle fork to separate them, OR, a nice quick rap with a hammer (on the side) would pop em out

 

[fwi]

Thank you all......I bought the good ones from Rick Ehrenberg.

 

[Torkmnstr]

While it's all about upgrade to 11/16 rods and solid sleeves...

 

[Cranky]

Cranky, what do you mean by 'body work'? Just curious.

You 'work' the fit with a hammer backup just like you would do when doing body work. Usually it only takes a 2 or 3 hits and the taper fit of the tie rod joint comes loose. Works very well when you're trying not to mess up the rubber boots with a pickle fork...or if you don't have one. Hit one side a couple of times then hit the other side a couple of times. Wipe off any built up grease and dirt so it doesn't soften the blows. Fran and Robby mentioned the same thing...

 

[SublimeSixpack]

I figured that was what you meant, just hadn't heard it worded that way before.