Time to bite the bullet

[Mopar-Charger]

I've been limping along with this Proform electronic distributor for a while now. Problem after problem. Now I can't take it anymore.

What Distributors? what iginition setups?

Engine:

360
2.02 Heads ported
Rpm Airgap
Headers
750 holley
727 TF

One Day it drives beautifully, the next it has a constant miss. Frustrating..............

I was looking at this is it worth it to go MSD ignition box?

www.ebay.com/itm/SB-Mopar-HEI-Eletr...360-/131506146709?hash=item1e9e608d95&vxp=mtr

 

[69Bee]

I've been limping along with this Proform electronic distributor for a while now. Problem after problem. Now I can't take it anymore.

What Distributors? what iginition setups?

Engine:

360
2.02 Heads ported
Rpm Airgap
Headers
750 holley
727 TF

One Day it drives beautifully, the next it has a constant miss. Frustrating..............

I was looking at this is it worth it to go MSD ignition box?

www.ebay.com/itm/SB-Mopar-HEI-Eletr...360-/131506146709?hash=item1e9e608d95&vxp=mtr

This is not an MSD ignition kit, it is just RED like one. Chineese made kit for $129 sold on EvilBay. I would buy REAL Mopar Performance parts from an authorized Mopar distributor, or REAL MSD parts from an Authorized distributor. Just my opinion, and what I would do. Not only quality parts, but they will stand behind them if they fail. MSD replaced my 6AL box a year out of warranty for NO charge. Now that is good customer service...

 

[Mopar-Charger]

So is it worth it to buy a MSD 6 AL box? With a real mopar Distributor?

 

[Hemi Rebel]

If you go msd, use the msd dizzy that matches everything else.
Or, if you dont want to spend the entire ton of cash, you could get a decent dizzy. Jegs has a nice looking piece for about 165. Then use a GM hei type module instead of an orange box. That way you can ditch the ballast resistor. It isnt terribly hard to do and you will have a hotter spark.

 

[69Bee]

So is it worth it to buy a MSD 6 AL box? With a real mopar Distributor?

That is what I did. I used the Electronic Ignition conversion kit, and then added the 6AL box. Do not delete the connector for the Chrysler Orange box, as you can carry it and use it if you have issues.

 

[65RoadRacer]

There are a lot of counterfeit rip-off kits out there for MSD, Aeromotive, etc. If they never say the manufacturer's name, you can almost bet it's a counterfeit.

I installed the MSD 6AL and their Billet distributor and performance coil. Can't complain one bit, very happy with the purchase and I swapped out the advance springs myself and it's running great. The distributor came with a spring kit and instructions on how to curve the distributor, pretty easy.

 

[furyus]

I think your better off with a complete MSD system. they're made for each other, and the distributor doesn't have to be welded to adjust total timing like the
mopar one does. Mine has been on my car for years with no issues.

 

[Car Nut]

I have a MSD now, but If I was going to do it over, I would go with Firecore ready to run dist.

 

[Bb70charger500]

Can anyone go into any more details on what is needed to be done to the cars wireing ,whats getting removed whats staying . I am thinking about going the full msd setup on my 340 also and a bit more info would be helpful for everyone.
Thanks

- - - Updated - - -

Any pics would be nice too.

 

[65RoadRacer]

The MSD setup is simple. You have a few connections that are self-contained like to the MSD Distributor, and an MSD coil. You just need an ignition source: I removed the ballast and connected the Dk. Blue and Brown wires together (run/start).

The ballast is just to lower the voltage on a points setup - the Brown wire provided a full 12 volts to the coil for starting (IG2), and the Dk Blue wire went to the opposite side of the ballast to reduced voltage in run (IG1).

This is how I've had mine connected for a while, and it works great. Just remember: the "Ready to Run" distributor has the built-in ignition and doesn't require an ignition box, but I prefer to have the 6AL and a standard MSD distributor.

Not sure how others have set theirs up.

 

[65-440]

what about a pertronics setup ?

 

[Shorthorse]

If you want clean and simple, look at the MSD ready to run. I've had one in my small block bracket car (11.70's, shifting at 6500 rpm's) for 8 years with no issues. It's cheaper than the box & distributor system and has served me well. No box, no resistor, you can go with vacuum or mechanical advance. You can also easily change the advance curve.

 

[65RoadRacer]

If you want clean and simple, look at the MSD ready to run. I've had one in my small block bracket car (11.70's, shifting at 6500 rpm's) for 8 years with no issues. It's cheaper than the box & distributor system and has served me well. No box, no resistor, you can go with vacuum or mechanical advance. You can also easily change the advance curve.

Did you also connect the dk blue and brown wires together to get 12V during crank and run? I've heard a couple people say there can be problems, but I don't see why... they both went to 12 volts, one (run) just ended up on one side of a ballast resistor.

 

[Shorthorse]

Did you also connect the dk blue and brown wires together to get 12V during crank and run? I've heard a couple people say there can be problems, but I don't see why... they both went to 12 volts, one (run) just ended up on one side of a ballast resistor.

Yes, I just bypassed the ballast resistor altogether. When I bought the distributor I called MSD to make sure because I had the same concerns but they assured me I didn't need it anymore. No problems. Wire it just like the diagram.

 

[65RoadRacer]

Thanks, I know that the ballast isn't needed, but I was wondering if you connected the two wires? One is only crank, the other is only run - when I did this I was told I needed to use a diode, but never did.

 

[Shorthorse]

Using a diode is an interesting concept. I wonder where they got that idea. A diode blocks the directional of flow for DC current but the original resistor does not. It only adds resistance to the current flow. I'm no electrical engineer but it seems like apples & oranges.
I always thought that ballast resistors and condensers were used to keep points from burning up. Maybe someone that really knows this stuff can chime in.

 

[Deleted member 214]

Using a diode is an interesting concept. I wonder where they got that idea. A diode blocks the directional of flow for DC current but the original resistor does not. It only adds resistance to the current flow. I'm no electrical engineer but it seems like apples & oranges.
I always thought that ballast resistors and condensers were used to keep points from burning up. Maybe someone that really knows this stuff can chime in.

I think the Mopar system puts full voltage when starting (hotter spark) start and backs off at run. Bypass the resistor, blow your ignition box in a few hours of driving. I learned that the hard way.

 

[65RoadRacer]

Yes, the Mopar system provided 12v at crank and during run the power to the coil went through the resistor, which knocked it down to about 9 volts. It was to save the points, but when you go to an aftermarket dist and ign, you don't need less than 12 volts. I just wondered about the diode recommendation because, technically, those two wires connect to the same point... just one circuit at a time and it's for reduced voltage. As I stated, I just connect both wires together to provide power to my ignition box and the EFI computer and in over a year no issues. Thanks