Time to replace gas tank,manifold and carburetor need help.

[Doug Larsson]

I have a 1973 Dodge Charger SE with a 400 bb 2bbl all stock. I want to replace the old gas tank what all do I need to order to replace the old one.

I also want to go with and aftermarket manifold and carburetor I have the stock set up still on the car can I have some recomendations what to look for and any tips on installing a mainifold this will be my first doing one.
Thank you it's greatly appreciated
Doug

 

[Bill Monk]

Fuel tank: a helper is good idea but you need a good floor jack, should probably replace the straps and maybe the j bolts. There is a tool to remove the sending unit but once it's off the car, you can work around that. You need a new seal for the sending unit and for the filler tube. it's not that bad. As to the intake and carb, that's a loaded question. It depends on what you are trying to do but for the street, a good dual plane like a performer rpm and I personally like Holleys on these cars, the street avenger series are easy to tune. There are torque specs and a sequence on the intake. Sequence and specs are readily available on the internet. I torque them to 35 ft lbs but make sure you follow the sequence. I torque them in sequence to 15 ft lbs, then to 25, then finally to 35. Always replace the gasket when you remove the intake.

 

[Doug Larsson]

Its just been a driver the gas tank is pretty bad that pic makes it look better than it is ha ha. I want to replace the stock manifold and carb I'm tired of the old crap I want some performance with out throwing the atm at it for right now lol.

 

[ckessel]

Re-use your old lock ring, the replacements are thinner and softer yielding gas leaks. Search the forums on this and the gasket.

 

[texas69bee]

I like the efi tanks. Sending unit and fuel pump are both in tank. They drop in from the top. You’ll need a regulator to adjust fuel pressure.
I like the fact I can make a box with the same dimensions or depth as the tank for the sending unit and calibrate it one time , drop it in and no leaks. I currently run a carb but if I switch to efi then it’s already there.

 

[SublimeSixpack]

Here are a few things that come to mind; Rubber chocks for the front tires, and jack stands to go under the rear axle housing after you get the rear jacked up. Siphon the gasoline out of the tank, and cap off any openings (overflow/vent nipples, etc.) if possible before attempting to remove tank. Think Safety! I use a brass drift and mallet to remove and install lock ring on sender unit.
If the sender unit rubber gasket is in good condition I'd consider reusing it. Some of the reproduction seals don't react well to today's fuel. (I learned this the hard way). The same goes for the sender unit. If it's good reuse it, but do replace it's filter.
Also replace any short sections of rubber type fuel line that attaches to the tank.

Since your engine is a very mild 400 you may want to consider the Edelbrock Performer intake, and at least take a look at the Street Demon carburetor.
And if you currently have a single exhaust I suggest going to a dual set up.

 

[Don Frelier]

I'd suggest getting a new sending unit from Vans Auto, they are inexpensive.
Just make sure the pick up tube is pretty close to the bottom of the tank maybe 1/4" from the bottom.
Also if you put on a new fuel pump, then everything would be new.
You can probably just get a Carter stock replacement from Rock Auto for a low price.
There are a million carburetor options. Quick Fuel makes a great carb for mid price.

 

[coloradodave]

Bought my tank and sending unit from Layson's, a sponsor of this site. Good quality and great service. Look on the right of your screen or in the vendor section.

 

[Beach Goat]

I like the efi tanks. Sending unit and fuel pump are both in tank. They drop in from the top. You’ll need a regulator to adjust fuel pressure.
I like the fact I can make a box with the same dimensions or depth as the tank for the sending unit and calibrate it one time , drop it in and no leaks. I currently run a carb but if I switch to efi then it’s already there.

I'll second this, I replaced my gas tank with an EFI tank and it was relatively painless. The pump is really quiet being in-tank, so that's nice too.

One piece of advice, replace your filler neck gasket, I tried to reuse the 20 year old one I pried off, and it wouldn't hold a seal and it leaked. Had to drop the tank again to replace it anyway.

 

[Don Frelier]

A couple tips on installing a manifold:
1. Take pictures of the linkage, throttle cable and return springs for the carb.
- related try and work on it for a continuous time period a day or two, you are more likely
to make mistakes if you start and finish weeks apart
2. Take apart the least amount of parts as possible, don't rush
3. You may need to pry the manifold off after all the bolts are removed it shouldn't be too hard.
4. Cover the valley with a towel, cardboard or something to prevent any tools or bolts falling in. Again take a picture.
5. Carefully clean the mating surfaces with a putty knife, paint scraper or something similar
you can wipe them off with a good thinner when complete. Test fit the valley pan.
6. A thin layer of black RTV around the ports on the heads, front and back rails of the block.
Leave a dab in the corners.
7. Drop in the valley pan, make sure it's centered and place the manifold over the opening.
8. Start all bolts by hand, and tighten gently.
Torque them all to 40 ft. lbs you can look up the sequence.
9. Reinstall carb, linkage and fuel line.
10. Make sure the gas line does not leak after starting. Check again after it heats and cools.
Let her rip!