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Torque converter

Yes. Make sure they are both from a cast/cast or forged/forged crank engines, unless you already know the parts you are running are zero balance.
 
6A77243C-5239-4274-90A2-B888BC30CE3A.jpeg
Here is a pic of engine block stamping.Should this be an internal or external balance?
 
4 = 1974
T = Built at Trenton engine plant
440 = 440 cubic inches
E = CAST CRANK


External balance engine built on the 29th of October by 2nd shift
 
Thanks Lefty,answered a lot of questions there. My h/b is the skinny one and t/c has no weights.
 
Pulled oil pan today this is what I found. Thought cast cranks were externally balanced. Glad I opened it up! Now I know what I have

2ECCCB27-CE17-4CD0-9B7C-B66A8C99843F.jpeg B0701B98-2BAE-417D-9048-E70686269BC2.jpeg
 
looks like that one is balanced
what concerns me is the mallory in the left pic if that is what it is below the hole
that comes out it destroys your motor
ask me how I know
so what do you think you have?
 
I see an original cast crank engine, that has been rebuilt with non-original parts.... That sure looks like a thin damper, and a forged crank to me, so I'd say that setup is zero balance, and so should your flex plate/torque converter. I don't see as good as I used to, but I don't see any Mallory metal.
 
We are going with neutral t/c and h/b. One more question,how does the oil pick up tube come off. Looks like it could use a new one.
 
It is threaded into the block, so it simply unscrews. 3/8" NPT unless someone has modified the block, then it may be 1/2".
 
Tried twice now and it’s tighter than a bulls ***! Don’t want to break it. Can you just replace the screen?
 
Put some heat on the pipe, near the block. Don't take a torch to the block! No way to replace the screen that I know of, certainly without taking the whole pickup off first anyway. Use the pipe wrench close to the part where the threads are, not the middle or far end.
 
Got transmission back,installed-no more vibration? Bad bearing in tailshaft on old one
 
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