Torsion bar adjustment

[Jasoncoronet]

Ok question guys. When adjusting the torsion bars should the torsion bar bolt be equal from side to side. Whe you adjust do you compensate for the driver. Where is the best place to measure i am using the fender to the ground.

Any tips will be great.

 

[5.7 hemi]

The FSM gives some technical directions for setting them, but I use the fender method along with what looks good to me.

 

[Kern Dog]

For reference, I measure to the top of the wheel opening. Last week when I replaced several front end parts AND the K member, I was actually able to get the front even at 25 3/8" on each side and the rear at 26 3/8" for an even one inch rake. First time I have ever had this car sitting even from side to side.
regarding the adjusting screws, the left/driver side will need to be turned tighter to compensate for the extra weight that the side carries. The left side has the battery, steering box and pump, shifter linkage, trans cooler lines, starter....AND the driver.

 

[Jasoncoronet]

Thanks for the info looks like i am on the same page. No real science just a tape measure.

 

[Mike Z]

Bolts Probobly will not be the same amount of threads
Make sure you're on a turn plate when adjusting so the tire is not on a bind
loosen the lower control arm nut just off snug so you don't damage the lower arm bushing and for a accurate adjustment

 

[Cranky]

The frame actually has a much closer tolerance than sheet metal and sheet metal can vary more than a 3/8" and more! Measurements should be taken from the suspension points to a level floor. You actually measure from the ball joint to the floor then measure from the torsion bar anchor to the floor and subtract the difference. A common number for several different model cars is 1 7/8" but it varies from car line to car line. And yes, you need to have your weight in the driver's seat and yes, the adjustment nut can and usually does vary. Once you get the right settings using this method, then you can check your fender well openings and if they are both the same, then you can use that for future reference. Also, NEVER adjust the torsion bar adjusts with the weight of the car on the wheel and for each adjustment you make, you need to roll the car back and forth to let the suspension settle back once it's down off the jack or use turn plates like mentioned above.

 

[67 coronet]

if you are worried about looks use the wheel well.if you are more worried about performance then use the frame method.both will work for a street car.if you road race this thing,use the frame method.

 

[Cranky]

if you are worried about looks use the wheel well.if you are more worried about performance then use the frame method.both will work for a street car.if you road race this thing,use the frame method.

Actually, for performance/race, serious racers will put the car on corner scales. Even for just a street car, the frame method should be used at least for the first time the car is adjusted and even some serious street guys will scale the suspension. Hey, I'm just as shade tree as the next hot rodder but when it comes to the suspension, I tend to become a bit more technical....or ****...take yer pic

 

[Dako]

For reference, I measure to the top of the wheel opening. Last week when I replaced several front end parts AND the K member, I was actually able to get the front even at 25 3/8" on each side and the rear at 26 3/8" for an even one inch rake. First time I have ever had this car sitting even from side to side.
regarding the adjusting screws, the left/driver side will need to be turned tighter to compensate for the extra weight that the side carries. The left side has the battery, steering box and pump, shifter linkage, trans cooler lines, starter....AND the driver.

I thought that's why the motor is offset to the passenger's side...to compensate for the weight distribution, and allow room for the steering shaft. :thinker: Regardless, I measure the same way, ground to fender lip at center of wheel...and have never had one set perfectly at all four corners either. :eusa_wall:

 

[WileE]

The frame actually has a much closer tolerance than sheet metal and sheet metal can vary more than a 3/8" and more! Measurements should be taken from the suspension points to a level floor. You actually measure from the ball joint to the floor then measure from the torsion bar anchor to the floor and subtract the difference. A common number for several different model cars is 1 7/8" but it varies from car line to car line. And yes, you need to have your weight in the driver's seat and yes, the adjustment nut can and usually does vary. Once you get the right settings using this method, then you can check your fender well openings and if they are both the same, then you can use that for future reference. Also, NEVER adjust the torsion bar adjusts with the weight of the car on the wheel and for each adjustment you make, you need to roll the car back and forth to let the suspension settle back once it's down off the jack or use turn plates like mentioned above.

Excellent... well-explained

 

[Cranky]

From what I've read in the past, engine offset has more to do with making room for the steering and the driver side pedals and foot room....

 

[Jasoncoronet]

This was all very helpfull thanks everybody for all your input. I promiss it will all be well used.

Thanks,

Jason