Rjvb3
Well-Known Member
Hello,
I'm attempting to install my torsion bars on my 69 coronet. A little background, I purchased the car halfway through a build in boxes. The previous owner did full floors/crossmember and installed most of the Hotchkis TVS kit. I dropped a 5.7 Hemi/Tr6060 in, added a USCT Level 2 stiffening kit and added some more support to compensate for cutting the tunnel and crossmember. And no, It didn't sag with engine weight, it's quite solid with that extra crossmember I put in behind the repop.
Anyways as you can see... crossmember and/or torsion socket is at the wrong angle and not allowing the bar to go in without serious binding. Looking through it like a scope (img 4), the socket would have the crosshair a little over an inch below the LCA socket. A search on here showed this has been known to be an issue with repop crossmembers but I could not find any tried and true solutions.
The way I see it, I have 3 options:
1. Loosen the k member bolts enough to get the bar to slide in and then zip it back up. I'm just worried that the bend in the bar may be less than ideal and cause stress since it was designed for rotational load.not bending load. Right? This is my first torsion bar car.
2. Cut a small relief cut in the welded area above and below the socket on the crossmember, bend /adjust to the proper angle, and then re-weld. I would also cut the floor out above and reinforce from the inside. Still worried this might weaken it.
3. Say screw it and invest in a coilover kit. I already have the inner fender supports in.
What are your guys' thoughts? I'm thinking option 2 is probably my safest (and cheapest) bet has anyone else dealt with this same issue?
Thanks!
-Rick
I'm attempting to install my torsion bars on my 69 coronet. A little background, I purchased the car halfway through a build in boxes. The previous owner did full floors/crossmember and installed most of the Hotchkis TVS kit. I dropped a 5.7 Hemi/Tr6060 in, added a USCT Level 2 stiffening kit and added some more support to compensate for cutting the tunnel and crossmember. And no, It didn't sag with engine weight, it's quite solid with that extra crossmember I put in behind the repop.
Anyways as you can see... crossmember and/or torsion socket is at the wrong angle and not allowing the bar to go in without serious binding. Looking through it like a scope (img 4), the socket would have the crosshair a little over an inch below the LCA socket. A search on here showed this has been known to be an issue with repop crossmembers but I could not find any tried and true solutions.
The way I see it, I have 3 options:
1. Loosen the k member bolts enough to get the bar to slide in and then zip it back up. I'm just worried that the bend in the bar may be less than ideal and cause stress since it was designed for rotational load.not bending load. Right? This is my first torsion bar car.
2. Cut a small relief cut in the welded area above and below the socket on the crossmember, bend /adjust to the proper angle, and then re-weld. I would also cut the floor out above and reinforce from the inside. Still worried this might weaken it.
3. Say screw it and invest in a coilover kit. I already have the inner fender supports in.
What are your guys' thoughts? I'm thinking option 2 is probably my safest (and cheapest) bet has anyone else dealt with this same issue?
Thanks!
-Rick