Transbrake without steel billet drum ?

[Mike Gaines]

I know a lot of guys installed their transbrakes WITHOUT upgrading the stock drum to a steel (or aluminum) billet drum....but those guys all did have a good SPRAG.

I am told that the stock sprag breaking is what then causes the stock drum to then explode.
plus...I don't know if the sprag breaking has anything to do with the transbrake being used.

My transmission does currently have a top of the line sprag.

I really need a transbrake to be competitive as 95% of all the guys I come up against have transbrakes.

My budget is kinda tight and I don't know if just the transbrake valve body ($650) is ok to install (with a good sprag) or do you really need to spend the extra $650 for the steel billet drum

Also does using the transbrake have anything to do with causing the sprag to break ?

Give me some opinions on if this is just stupid or can you get by without spending the $650 for a billet drum as long as the transmission has an upgraded top of the line sprag.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

If I were you i'd invest in a billet steel drum and forget the transbrake.
If faster footbraking than with a transbrake. With practice you'll be as fast with the footbrake. Save your money or invest in the better front drum

 

[dvw]

Which "good" sprag? The $200 one or just the bolt in? The standard bolt in is useless. Even the high dollar part can roll over. Saw one bust last year in a 10.0 3400lb foot brake car. We rolled the sprag in my sons. even with a low band apply brake. A brake on a car with good power will strip the front planet splines sooner or later as well. No biggie if you do your own trans and catch it before it completely fails. But that's pulling it every 100 passes and having a look see. I've run stock drums for years with no issue. I've also seen some break with catastrophic results. Personally if I were buying an aftermarket drum it would be aluminum. I've run both. Aluminum wears fine, easier on clutches and bands and it's quicker. Weigh a steel billet part, it's about 3-4 lbs heavier the the aluminum.
Doug

 

[Mike Gaines]

I know a lot of guys installed their transbrakes WITHOUT upgrading the stock drum to a steel (or aluminum) billet drum....but those guys all did have a good SPRAG.

I am told that the stock sprag breaking is what then causes the stock drum to then explode.
plus...I don't know if the sprag breaking has anything to do with the transbrake being used.

For me to be really competitive I need a transbrake as 98% of the racers I go up against all have a transbrake and my budget is kinda tight for the transbrake valve body ($650) PLUS the steel billet drum ($650 more).

Give me some opinions on if this is just stupid or can you get by without spending the $650 for a billet drum as long as the transmission has an upgraded top of the line sprag.

If I were you i'd invest in a billet steel drum and forget the transbrake.
If faster footbraking than with a transbrake. With practice you'll be as fast with the footbrake. Save your money or invest in the better front drum

One of the 2 classes I run at my home track in California (Famoso) is D/Gas which is 10.60 heads up racing and they use only a .500 PRO TREE.
I can handle the straight bracket class using only my foot brake that I also run that uses a FULL SPORTSMAN TREE...but I can't be competitive without the brake on the PRO TREE in D/GAS.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

One of the 2 classes I run at my home track in California (Famoso) is D/Gas which is 10.60 heads up racing and they use only a .500 PRO TREE.
I can handle the straight bracket class using only my foot brake that I also run that uses a FULL SPORTSMAN TREE...but I can't be competitive without the brake on the PRO TREE in D/GAS.

I was cutting .00x-.01x on a .500 protree in 2 NSS organizations. You just need to practice. Don't think you're going to cut .00X lights with a transbrake right off the bat.
It's called seat time.
Transbrakes are overrated IMO. Your money would be better spent on a low gear set from A & A Transmissions. A 2.74 front planetary would get your car to react so much faster, yo wouldn't believe it.

 

[Mike Gaines]

I was cutting .00x-.01x on a .500 protree in 2 NSS organizations. You just need to practice. Don't think you're going to cut .00X lights with a transbrake right off the bat.
It's called seat time.
Transbrakes are overrated IMO. Your money would be better spent on a low gear set from A & A Transmissions. A 2.74 front planetary would get your car to react so much faster, yo wouldn't believe it.

Great Info...thanks.. (and I wasn't expecting .00x lights with a brake) ...I can be competitive with .020 to .030 consistent lights.

 

[Roughbird72]

I put a billet drum in mine because it's cheaper than new feet. .02

 

[dvw]

Great Info...thanks.. (and I wasn't expecting .00x lights with a brake) ...I can be competitive with .020 to .030 consistent lights.

If you can cut a good light on a.500 full tree. You can cut a good light on a .500 Pro tree. Like Chris said . practice, practice, practice. Use the same rollout in the practice tree for both Pro and Full. I use .340 on mine. My Pro and Full are with-in .01. Actually Pro is better with more practice as I'm not as worried about leaving early.
Doug

 

[66Satellite47]

Mike, not sure what the best sprag is, but I'd sure try to use one. These days a billet front drum or aluminum sure makes sense. Racing is expensive, so are the hospital bills. I think I'm headed for the billet drum and whatever the best sprag is, given the power I seem to have. T Flite cases & stock floor pans really don't stop an exploding front drum. Next time we talk I'll tell you about exploding a T Flite.

 

[Tex013]

Mike , I am with you - when bracket racing a brake will help with consistency . Here in Sydney I am at the point where I have to look at a brake to keep my competiveness , most of the other top racers use 1 some even going air shifters . No delay boxes allowed .
No it wont give better lights , just consistency of light .
Billet drum for sure , especially if you do street driving .
Oh by the way we run a .400 full tree here

Tex

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

And another thing to worry about, what I have seen is a bad Transbrake solenoid right in eliminations.
I cant tell you how many times I lined up with another racer whose Transbrake malfunctioned and he was left sitting there at the starting line.

 

[383man]

I would update the drum if I were you since you seem to go racing a good bit as it is a smart move for sure. I know I have only raced a pro tree once but most I see on the pro tree have a trans brake. I do remember Cliff Sebring running on a pro tree with his 63 wagon but he was allowed to deep stage and turn out the prestage bulb as thats the way he could be competitive with that car on a pro tree and no trans brake. But it would be a good move to update to the good front drum. Ron

 

[66Satellite47]

Mike, safety is the issue. Trans brakes stress everything to the limit. The strongest parts in the T Flite are what you need if you decide to go with a brake. I can't count the number of Glide brake cars i saw explode. Also with the brake, make sure your shield actually covers the parts that explode. Back in the '80's the SFI shield I was required to buy was designed for a Glide, not a T Flite. I had to totally reconfigure it to protect my legs. Think about your safety.

 

[66Satellite47]

Like i've told you I never got comfortable with the brake. But a billet drum is surely needed. Make sure the shield covers the front drum area.