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Trying to Figure Out This Charging Problem! H-E-L-P!

696969

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I'm just going nuts here trying to trace the problem I'm having with my charging system. :BangHead:

Here are the facts:

1. I noticed that the Amp Meter on the dash was reading a low charge after the engine was running and lower when the various lights were used.


2. After testing the battery and alt and getting below 14v while running, in fact getting 11.5v, I decided to go ahead and replace the alt and (mechanical) regulator, thinking that the battery was not charging.

3. I put in a new alt. and reg. and no improvement. Alt is a 3 connector, just like the old one.

4. Put in a new Bosch battery

5. Popped off the + cable while running and the car dies.

6. Tried bypassing the ammeter on the dash and no improvement in voltages

7. Tested and found no resistance between the + battery cable and + post on the alt.

8. Checked the bulkhead connectors - all clean. No traces of melting. Cleaned bulkhead connector with contact cleaner.

9. Brought old alt in to be tested at Pep Boys and it charges correctly. Old alt is back in the car - returning new one as long as the old one works correctly.

10. Running out of ideas.

Note, I think the trouble started happening after I installed a car stereo amp (which I hook my ipod to) however, I cannot find any visible shorts behind the dash as a result of that install, nor can I understand how that would affect alt voltage in the car, which is back down to 11.5v

Nevertheless, I feel something is putting a load on the alt or the electrical system, but I can't locate it. Maybe the starter or relay?

Anyway I'd like to avoid having to take it to the shop. Any ideas anyone? :dontknow:
 
ummmmmmmmmm..................firstly....NEW does not mean GOOD ! SECONDLY...HOW DO YOU KNOW THE METER YOURE USING IS READING ACCURATELY ?. stock meters especially in old cars aint worth a fiddlers _______( fill in the blank). if you feel your meter is working as it should, hook it DIRECTLY to the battery...fire it up...revv it up... ...and see what ya get across the battery. you should get anywhere from 12.5 to 14 volts. is it draining as you run the car?....is it leaving you stranded someplace?...if not....dont worry about it. the more lights you use....the lower that dash meter is going to read. it dont mean your charging system in on the fritz. my 70 road runner has all new gauges in it and mine does the same thing......and it never left me stranded. dont make a problem....wait til it becomes a problem !

your dash gauge is an AMPERE METER...not a volt meter. if youre concerned about volts, then install a volt meter. the amp meter registers amps being pushed or pulled from the battery. try running a 10 gauge wire from the battery negative to your rad support and make sure you have nice clean connections. other than that, if the battery is not dying,,,sounds like youre making a problem where there is none. if it IS dying...then either the reg or the alt is bad. it cant be anything else other than a loose wire or the battery itself !....hope this helps!:headbang:
 
take it to a profesional and have the battery load tested and your charging system tested in the car.it will be worth the $30 to $40 you spend to find out if there is a real problem.you can also check for a draw on the system by checking for continuity between the positve cable and the body of the car with everything off and doors closed.
 
Use a digital volt meter, ground to the alt. case first and check voltage at the alt. output. Should be 13.8 to 14.2 volts. (most likely you will have to have it about 1,200rpm for this reading)
Then check accross the battery and see what the voltage is.
 
You put an AMP in your car or a stereo head unit? There's a difference. An AMP takes sound/signal from the head unit and amplifies it. Separate unit. The head unit is the receiver you're tuning the radio dial/playing cd's/hooking up an ipod on.

Putting in a regular head unit on some 6" x 9"'s, your car should run/charge with no issues if wired up correctly. If you actually installed an amp and are running more than a couple speakers and possibly a sub, it makes perfect sense why you have charging/draw issues. You're 50/60amp alt would really struggle to run something like that, especially when you start turning other accessories on.
 
"9. Brought old alt in to be tested at Pep Boys and it charges correctly. Old alt is back in the car - returning new one as long as the old one works correctly."


696969: Having worked in a speed shop for a number of years, I really resented customers who used our new stock as their personal parts source to try and see if it solved their problem. This is why almost all parts stores have a 'no return policy' on electrical parts. Replacement if tested defective, but no return. Throwing parts at a problem is not a substitute for good diagnostic work. What's the parts store going to do with a 'used' alternator? Sorry if anyone's offended, but look at it from the store owner's view.
 
a power amp shouldnt pull all that much power. unless its spitting out 10,000 watts....and the louder you turn it up....the more it will draw. what power rating amplifier did you install?
 
OK, so lest anyone doubt that a new Reg from Pep Boys couldn't be defective, let me lay those doubts to rest!

After dinking around trying to pinpoint the problem in the charging system, I finally got around to bypassing the Reg, which showed the Alt was charging.
I wouldn't have believed it. The new Reg that I got at Pep Boys, when I replaced the Alt a week ago was defective.

I picked up the new Reg at O'Reilly and it seems to work fine. Ammeter shows charging, but doesn't peg to the extreme right. Also, it stays pretty dead center when everything is on.

I think Reg #1 just gave up the ghost when I was overhauling a lot of the electrical, while Reg #2 was just plain dog doo.

Of course, Murphy's law, due to messing around behind the gauge cluster, now the fuel gauge doesn't work.

One thing fixed, another thing broken....:happy5:
 
"9. Brought old alt in to be tested at Pep Boys and it charges correctly. Old alt is back in the car - returning new one as long as the old one works correctly."


696969: Having worked in a speed shop for a number of years, I really resented customers who used our new stock as their personal parts source to try and see if it solved their problem. This is why almost all parts stores have a 'no return policy' on electrical parts. Replacement if tested defective, but no return. Throwing parts at a problem is not a substitute for good diagnostic work. What's the parts store going to do with a 'used' alternator? Sorry if anyone's offended, but look at it from the store owner's view.

Never thought of it from that perspective, but it was rebuilt anyway and I'm sure they'll test it and if it tests fine, they'll just sell it. When someone returns their old one for a credit of 10-20 bux, i'm sure it's profitable.
 
Doesn't work that way. Once you mount it and hook it to your electrical system it's no longer 'rebuilt', it's used. Would you pay good money for a unit that someone else 'tried' or would you insist on a unit from a sealed box? I'd be curious to know if Pep Boys gives you a refund.

- - - Updated - - -

Doesn't work that way. Once you mount it and hook it to your electrical system it's no longer 'rebuilt', it's used. Would you pay good money for a unit that someone else 'tried' or would you insist on a unit from a sealed box? I'd be curious to know if Pep Boys gives you a refund. It's all good since it's not my profit that's affected.
 
Boxes aren't usually sealed. Everybody opens it before they buy to verify it looks like the one they need. Pep boys will put it back on the shelf and sell it as reman without any problems. The oreilly's I went to a while ago tested the alternator I bought from them. A test on their stand is as good as a test on ur car for 5 minutes.
 
If it can't be returned, I shall keep said Alt as a spare!
 
next time try shooting for better quality parts.pep boys electrical is junk.oreilly electrical is junk,unless you spring for the borg warner line they also carry.never buy any wells product and standard is questionable at best.
 
next time try shooting for better quality parts.pep boys electrical is junk.oreilly electrical is junk,unless you spring for the borg warner line they also carry.never buy any wells product and standard is questionable at best.

Recommendations, please!!
 
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