Yeah, there's too many hands that method involves anymore for my taste.I don’t mind sending a check. Did business that way for many years. Worse think about doing it now are the thieves in USPS.
You mean PA pulls the drums off to check your brakes?? Reminds me of what they do in Germany....if you bring in your car for a repair, they pretty much do a full inspection and fix whatever is wrong with it and without asking if you want to do that or not! There are some inspectors here that give it a good going over but none pull drums off but none ever check the aim of the headlights anymore.If you can get them, no substitute for original parts. When I bought Baby Blue the second time in 2013, I had a leaky master cylinder I replaced with a good reproduction of the original Bendix unit. Car still had the original drums, and asbestos brake linings my friend Bob had installed at 80,000 miles before he sold me the car in 1983. The guys at the shop who did my Pennsylvania state inspection were awestruck seeing the real deal linings, and told me to never change them if possible, they were amazed at the performance when they test drove my "antique."
I've dealt with cash in the mail before too.....sent and others sent to me that way. Just need to put it in a wrapper before putting it into an envelope and it doesn't hurt to sent it registered mail but lately, not sure I want to do that anymore either!Based on the years here, what Craig has been through the past year or so and ZERO bad posts about him... I'd send him Cash in an envelope....
PA not only pulls the drums, the lining thickness is noted on the inspection form. For many years it was a twice a year deal for cars, and it wasn't until the year before I retired that it went to once a year for commercial trucks. I licensed Baby Blue as a "classic," requiring the annual inspection, rather than an "antique," which doesn't, so I could reuse the same "classic" plate I had been issued in 1985, the first time I owned the car.You mean PA pulls the drums off to check your brakes?? Reminds me of what they do in Germany....if you bring in your car for a repair, they pretty much do a full inspection and fix whatever is wrong with it and without asking if you want to do that or not! There are some inspectors here that give it a good going over but none pull drums off but none ever check the aim of the headlights anymore.
I've dealt with cash in the mail before too.....sent and others sent to me that way. Just need to put it in a wrapper before putting it into an envelope and it doesn't hurt to sent it registered mail but lately, not sure I want to do that anymore either!
I had a 1967 Beleveder II, with the 11" front and rear manual drum brakes as optional equipment. Wore out the original shoes at approximately 12,000 miles, due to the hilly terrain in the Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania area As a replacement, I used Gray-Rock, semi-metallic sintered iron graphite friction material, light Gray in color (riveted on the shoe....not availableas bonded).....EXCELLENT STOPPING POWER.... worked best when hot...absolutely no fading......maybe available on the internet or ebay. Gray Rock was an brand of Raybestos-Manhattan.....try a goggle search.....This is becoming a long and expensive saga. Started out with noticing stopping power had gotten really sluggish in the car that had 100% of the brake system replaced 20 years ago. Just about the only used item was a booster I picked up. I installed brakes from the Praise Dyno Brake outfit back then which may or may not have become Muscle Car Brakes.
From a vacuum test, that I now suspect of being a bogus test method, I thought the booster had gone bad. I had the booster rebuilt by Harmon and reinstalled and no improvement.
Finally looked in brake master and the rear bowl was clear but the back bowl was brown, rusty mud. Tried to clean it out and the ports had been blocked to the front so no front brakes at all. Bought a new casting, correct style master and installed it after bench bleeding. Flushed the lines, got good clean fluid at all wheel cylinders and no leaks and firm pedal. Adjusted all wheels. Better breaking but still feels weak, especially compared to my 66 Satellite with the same 11” brakes, but no PB, and it stops very, very well. But I have no idea what brake shoes the PO put on it.
All lines are new, hoses were replaced, wheel cylinders were replaced. The Praise Dyno linings got roasted back 20 years ago due to not enough return of the Master Cylinder push rod. After figuring that out and adjusting I found some of the shoes were cracked. Praise Dyno said it wouldn’t hurt anything but now I’m not so sure.
So my next step would seem to be to try some new 11” shoes, but what type and brand? This is a cruiser and doesn’t get any severe use. I want a good shoe that works well cold and warm and I’m not sure if that should be organic or ceramics at this point.
Any suggestions?