Turn signal for '66 Charger

[vintagetin]

Brake lights stopped working and I found the fault in the turn signal. Pulled the wheel and re-soldered some stuff and it worked fine for another 15,000 miles. Now the right brake light is not coming on, but the turn signal still works on that side so I'm pretty sure it's the switch again. I'm just going to replace it. I've heard of guys that bought the '67 units and fabbed it to fit. I think I'll just get this unit. Let me know if this is legit. I didn't know the '62-'66 models all had the same switch.

Part# 190085

http://www.hardensmcw.com/ShowItem/100667 Turn Signal Switch 62-66.aspx

http://www.herbsparts.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=turn+signal+switch&sprice=&stype=&scat=

Hardens is cheaper so that's probably where I'll get it from.

 

[john.thompson068]

That is a great price. I was looking at having to pay $133. I fabbed up a 67 after my 66 quit working, but you have to grind off so much that the cancel arm breaks off. Now I have to manually cancel my right blinker which is really annoying. I would really like to buy a new switch if it is only going to be about $70 after taxes and shipping. I am so glad I saw this post.



http://www.brilesvintageautoparts.com/inventory.php?show=TURN_SIGNAL_SWITCHES

 

[vintagetin]

For anyone else who is curious, Here's how it went:
I'll start by stating my car is a 1966 Dodge Charger that has the three speed standard on the column. It has been converted to the floor shifter and I removed the shift lever from the column, but it still has the three speed manual column.
I'll start buy mentioning there were some differences from mine. It not longer has the little brass wheel to ground the horn button to the wheel, I just has a brass, or copper, spring loaded shaft that rides against the copper ring on the back of the wheel. The horn works perfect no the less. Another difference, which was a slight problem was that the plug was not right, and it did not fit. It cam with both the male and female ends to replace, but it did not come with new spades to put on the old wires to thread it into the new plug end. Also, the new wires on the switch already had the spades on them, which made them too fat to feed through my steering column. I had to cut all the spades off, and since I didn't have new ones for the old wires, I later discarded the plug and all the spade ends. Feeding the wires through my column was a bitch. For the first 6 inches I was able to feed them with my finger nail. For the rest of the distance I had to force them through with a flat head screw driver which was the only think I could find to get traction. Fortunately the rubber on the wires was tough enough, and I did not break through any of them. After feeding it through I read the directions for wiring. This was the biggest problem I had. It clearly stated in my instructions "If your old turn signal has a RED and WHITE wire on the TURN SIGNAL CAM wire as follows: Here it showed the color of the old wire to the color of the new wire. The only wire that was put to the same color was the black wires. The other page read: "If your turn signal DOES NOT have any wires on the TURN SIGNAL CAM wire as follows: Here it shows all the old colors matching the new colors.
I was instantly confused at this point because the new switch had a RED and WHITE wire on the cam just like mine! So....If they are the same..won't I hook the wires to corresponding colors?? Even though this seemed obvious I wired them differentlly according the directions. I tested them..they were totally screwed up. After I rewired them the way I had originally thought (all the colors from the old wires matching the colors from the new wires) everything works perfectly. I think there may have been a misprint in the instructions where if your car DOES NOT have a RED and WHITE wire on the TURN SIGNAL CAM you should match the colors differently as the instructions say.

Regardless of these problems I had, I took me a total of an hour and 30 mins to pull the wheel, install the unit and put it all back together. My car is a daily driver, not a sunny day driver, or a weekend warrior, but an everything as long as it's not snowing out driver..It is my only source for transportation. And the switch works perfect every single time. I'm happy with may purchase. I recommend it for anyone. The quality of the plastic and the wires feels, and looks as that of quality. If you want your plug to be super pretty I'd ask them to send you some spades for the old wires that will plug into the new ones. The new ones are flat, and mine were more square. They would not fit.

That's my experience! Hope it helps.

 

[Slantsixdan]

Not to blow my own horn (or actuate my own turn signals), and "too late" for the originator of this thread, but the rest of you: see here. I still have some new OEM switches, both varieties -- '62-'63 with flat terminals and '64-'66 with correct box terminals. Mine are 100% correct in every detail and are much better quality than the Chinese dreck that's almost kinda sorta close to correct if you squint.

Looks like my price is better than the Chinese ones, too.

 

[vintagetin]

Not to blow my own horn (or actuate my own turn signals), and "too late" for the originator of this thread, but the rest of you: see here. I still have some new OEM switches, both varieties -- '62-'63 with flat terminals and '64-'66 with correct box terminals. Mine are 100% correct in every detail and are much better quality than the Chinese dreck that's almost kinda sorta close to correct if you squint.

Looks like my price is better than the Chinese ones, too.

all well, too bad I didn't catch ya earlier.