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Turn Signals Quit at Low RPM '72 Charger

Archie340

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I'm trying to figure out a problem I'm having with the directionals. The turn signals slow down and then stop blinking entirely as engine rpm drops, like when coming to an intersection. The directional goes to a steady light but starts to blink again as rpm increases.

The charging system seems fine and the previous owner said he replaced the flasher but it did not fix the problem. Any idea's?
 
sounds like ya need a new voltage regulator....orrrrrr ...try this.

clean all the connections on the alternator and the starter relay.

then run a body ground wire from the battery negative (-) to your rad support with nice clean connections.

check the ground strap from the engine block to the firewall. and make sure the battery itself is cleaned up.

i realize these sound like ridiculous things to do, but i had a similar thing happen just today with the javelin.
 
Yes, clean and check ALL connections and grounds, from the battery all the way to the turn signals themselves......poor ground connections can cause all kinds of electrical problems.
 
get a flasher out of a 96 jeep cherokee after doing the above
 
first time I heard that.

The turning lights works even just with battery. A little bit slower, but still working
 
Turn signal flasher function is driven by the amount of voltage available, so your charging system is defiantly not working fine. :( How does engine RPM effect your windshield wipers? Do they slow down as engine RPM drops? If your wipers slow also, I would say the problem is either your voltage regulator or more likely your alternator is on its last legs. I suspect it's the later since you aren't seeing voltage issues at higher RPMs.
 
really works with the LOAD put on the flasher by the ammount of bulbs. If you don't have bulbs or they are not wired, the pilot light on cluster won't blink because just that bulb by itself doesn't sucks enough load to make the heating element to heat on flasher so then,work
 
True, but the lights are flashing at speed, which means the bulbs are present and drawing enough current. It's only when engine RPM decreases, and the alternator is producing its lower level of current, that the lights stop flashing, which indicates a current problem.

I've only had one regulator go bad on me, and as it went there were problems on both sides of the voltage dial. The amp meter would drop, then peg, the lights would go dim and then suddenly become bright, and the most spectacular show was an LED digital clock exploded right out of the dash and sailed past me in a trail of smoke. :) Very impressive.
 
Thanks for all the great advise. The alternator is a recent replacement but could very well be the problem. Tonight I tried the directionals with the battery on the charger, a different battery, and replaced the voltage regulator with the black resto unit which I was going to install anyway. I also cleaned up the ground between the neg battery cable and radiator support and the connections to the alternator. No luck so far, but at least I have time on my side as the car is confined to the garage till Spring. I'll get the alternator checked this week. The engine ground strap is missing. Oh well, another item for the Christmas list.
 
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