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Universal Joints Engine Swap

Auggie56

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Going from a 318, with the small joints, to an eight and 3/4 rear, and a 727 with a yoke, that's large u-joint. The drive line shop wants over three hundred bucks to build me a drive shaft. But, he said he has a u joint, that allows me to use the original drive shaft, with a u joint that has large joint on one side, and small u joint on the other. He didn't quote me a price, but said they are very expensive. Hmmmm. I know these joint probably exist, just not the high price he would sell for. I can go to another shop near by, but they would have to figure it out, thus wasting their time. You guys know who might sell such a part, with out the hassle ?

Thanks
 
Yes, those are readily available. Measure the cap diameter and the distance from the outside of the yoke "ear" to the the outside of the opposite one. About any well know parts stores should have them. Better yet, take the two yokes with you...............................MO
 
Many of the driveshaft makers websites offer those combination u-joints. Just have to figure out what you want, if that's the way you want to go.
I've got a 1330 yoke on my 8 3/4"...over $200 to change it. I've got a 1330/7290 combine u-joint in the mail...around $18.
 
I will add though, the $300 to have a shaft made, could be within reason, if the shop is worth it's salt.
Local shop around here is a 'one-man-band', but has a great reputation...quoted me $250-400, depending on what I want.
 
What was in the car before doing the swap? Is your driveshaft already the right length? Also, a yoke for the 727 with the 7260 (small joint) was available. Had a 1970 340 Challenger with the small joint 727 slip yoke in it.....
 
Thanks for the information fellow B Body members. I really have no idea as the drive shaft length, till I get the new engine and trans bolted in.
 
Yeah,got one of those adaptor joints sitting on the shelf. Been there at least 25 years. Some synapse connects in my head when I last saw it makes me feel that it was a bitch to install. I had small cups on the driveshaft, large on the rearend.......
 
A 7260 to 7290 conversion joint should be available for less than $30 or so from any parts store. As far as the driveshaft length, get the service manual for your car, and look in the driveshaft section, and it will list different lengths for different engine/trans combinations.
 
Going from a 318, with the small joints, to an eight and 3/4 rear, and a 727 with a yoke, that's large u-joint.
You don't say what engine size your going to...or are you staying with the 318?
Dig into your service manual, under drivelines. Just tossing a bit of common sense into things, the book says smaller u-joints/small motors...bigger u-joints/bigger motors.

Side note...if that shop is giving high quotes for u-joints, straight up, or not, sizes...turn around, and walk out.
 
Once you get your new motor/trans installed, slip the old driveshaft into the trans, then seat it against the rear end yoke, and see how far it pushes forward before it bottoms into the trans. I think 1" is about right. If the D/Shaft is the right length, then just order the u joint you need, and have someone install it on the D/Shaft. I think the combo of smaller size/larger size is plenty strong.
 
So....
Does anyone have a part number for this u-joint? Most of the parts stores now cannot find anything in their computers except for OE stuff. Sometimes, they can't even find that.
"You have a Plymouth Belvedere? Who makes that?....."
 
So....
Does anyone have a part number for this u-joint? Most of the parts stores now cannot find anything in their computers except for OE stuff. Sometimes, they can't even find that.
"You have a Plymouth Belvedere? Who makes that?....."

LOL ~! I'm lucky enough to have a couple of drive line specialty shops, here in town. When I find out the part number I'll share it.
 
You don't say what engine size your going to...or are you staying with the 318?
Dig into your service manual, under drivelines. Just tossing a bit of common sense into things, the book says smaller u-joints/small motors...bigger u-joints/bigger motors.

Side note...if that shop is giving high quotes for u-joints, straight up, or not, sizes...turn around, and walk out.

It's a big block, miller.
 
It's a big block, miller.
Of course it is!!! Heh.

Just something else to consider, looking at the book, or not. Driveshaft tube diameters are different between small block, and big block setups. If the shaft you have came out of a 318 build...probably have a smaller diameter shaft. Twist away........
Normal 7290 shafts are 3" tube.
 
When I built my A Body big block, I found a used D/Shaft out of a Dodge Pickup, at a transmission shop. Cost me ten bucks. Then had it cut to length and balanced at a drive line shop, cost of $175. So shop around for better prices.
 
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