upper control arm bushings - 73 RR

[Sputnik]

So ...... what's my next move here, I can't visualize how the threaded arm comes out as the widened areas where the bolts run through won't clear the bushings - I know this'll will be one of those "duh" moments , but ............

.... and I'll be taking them in to have pressed out/in.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I always stick um in a big vise knock the nuts off and get an air chisel under the bushing flange and drive it out, remove the shaft and repeat with the other bushing. That 14.99 harbor freight air chisel will NOT do it, either.

 

[Kernel Sanders]

I just did this job....

As Rusty said get em in a big vise and get them nuts off then just burn out the rubber

Mine were so rusted I just got a nut splitter to get the nuts off without damaging the threads on the shafts then burn out the rubber, then press out the old shells.
New Grade 8 nuts are relatively easy to find.

The Moog replacement bushings are K7058

Additionally here is the Moog numbers for our Mopar suspensions.
http://www.turbinecar.com/misc/Mopar-MoogSuspension.htm


- - - Updated - - -

OH! putting thes back together is a little more of a challange... First press one of the new bushings on then slide the bar thought the side the bushing is not yet installed then press the other bushing on.

!!!!!Do not press that second one on without supporting the A-arm or you will bend/warp it!!!!! I took a piece of 2" pipe and cut it lengthwise end to end and the same length to to fit and support between the flanges then safely pressed in the second bushing into the A-arm with the shaft in place.

*whew* Hope that makes sense amd actually helps

 

[D575]

air chisel like rusty says. to remove them then get a socket or pipe the size of the flange. open the vise just to use as a back up . get your pipe or socket and drive in the new bushing with a BFH.
I have a cup that was designed for a ball joint press that fits over the flange. use the vise as back up and put the air chisel up against the socket, cup , or pipe and rattle it in. I worked in a shop and we never used a press.

Hope that makes sense

 

[YY1]

That's a great idea to section a pipe to support the integrity of the arm.

I've been trying to plan out the logistics of this job myself. Mine doesn't need it yet, but I'm sure it will.

 

[RICHIES ARMOR]

I just replaced my ball joints too. One had a retainer under the rubber boot. Make sure you pry it off first or you cant unscrew the ball joint.... that is if you intend to replace them.

Richie

 

[RustyRatRod]

Another method for the bushings if you don't have a torch, you can actually drill the rubber out. It's a little time consuming, but you can do it. Then you can take a hammer and chisel if you dont have an air chisel and knock the bushing shells out. I'm about to be installing some front end bushings in a Chevelle. <cough> <hack> and if yall want me to, I can take some pictures. It'll be a little while though. Hay and it IS a numbers matchin big block car at least. lol

 

[Sputnik]

Had no clue they were that tough , they're awful dry rotted (desert car) but no play. Just a matter of time before they disintegrate .

 

[Dako]

At the risk of getting lambasted...If you don't have access to the tools required, you can also take the control arms, along with new bushings to the local front end shop and they will likey do all the 'fighting' (pressing out old & in new) for you for $40-$50 bucks. Just another option.

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Indeed they can and they should have the know how to do it quickly and correctly.... though that assumption can be disasterous so watch em closely and dont be afraid to say something or ask questions if you see the press operator start scratching his head or about to try something that doesnt seem right to you.