Using the best coolant?

[Paul_G]

Not the brand but the type. Our old cars used Ethylene Glycol. There are much better coolants to use today. Watch this video. He is usually correct about most things. I am thinking of switching over to the HOAT coolant. I just did a complete (Hillbilly) super flush of the system. I am good to change the coolant type now if I decide to do it.

 

[Dennis H]

I’ll wait. In the late 80s, GM came out with the permanent stuff. Orange. Dexron? Engine killer. Green only for me every 2-3 years. I keep an eye on the electrolysis with test strip.

 

[themechanic]

I watched Scotty's video when it first posted. I thought about it but it's not worth it on a seldom driven car like mine.

Plus, it's good to flush and fill once a year or every other year. Especially, if the cars sits a long time without circulating the coolant.

 

[moparcrazy]

so is antifreeze just that, for freezing not for cooling?

 

[Dennis H]

Thanks for the reminder. I think these colors are in-range.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I cannot tell you how much mis-information is out there about coolant. The guy in the video makes some good points, but also has some information that's 100% wrong. 99% of all coolant is based on ethylene glycol. The other 1% is propylene glycol (e.g. Sierra) and ethylene glycol/glycerin blends (Volkswagon). These are the "anti-freeze" ingredients and all of them HURT cooling...but you need at least "some" of these ingredients so your block doesn't freeze/crack in winter.

Our cars originally used IAT technology based on phosphoric acid. The closest product I've found is "Peak Green" (the actual name, not the color - regular green-colored Peak Longlife is actually green dyed Dexcool). Other coolants can be used, just don't mix coolants. In all cases, your pH should be above 8. If you have a IAT coolant, the pH should be about about 9.5. The more water & less anti-freeze you blend, the cooler your engine will run. Hope this helps. You can always pm me if you need more information. I worked for many years inventing new coolants for Peak, Prestone, etc.

 

[Ranger16]

I wouldn't trust anything this self proclaimed internet expert clown says any farther than I could pick him up and throw him. He's the same Bozo that says you can fix your CAT rather than replace it by filling it with Acetone and then rinse it.

Now he is claiming that the coolant has electrically conductive materials that degrade rubber hoses.

so is antifreeze just that, for freezing not for cooling?

"Technically" yes, straight water cools better than anti-freeze, but anti-freeze also has anti-rust/corrosion inhibitors as well as lubricants for the water pump. You could probably run straight water and add your own off the shelf aftermarket snake oil lube and rust/corrosion inhibitors, but why?

The guy in the video makes some good points, but also has some information that's 100% wrong.
I worked for many years inventing new coolants for Peak, Prestone, etc.

I rest my case.

 

[RJRENTON]

I wouldn't trust anything this self proclaimed internet expert clown says any farther than I could pick him up and throw him. He's the same Bozo that says you can fix your CAT rather than replace it by filling it with Acetone and then rinse it.

Now he is claiming that the coolant has electrically conductive materials that degrade rubber hoses.



"Technically" yes, straight water cools better than anti-freeze, but anti-freeze also has anti-rust/corrosion inhibitors as well as lubricants for the water pump. You could probably run straight water and add your own off the shelf aftermarket snake oil lube and rust/corrosion inhibitors, but why?



I rest my case.

Out of curiosity....
".....lubricates the water pump". What part of the water pump needs lubricated? Its not the shaft bearings...they are sealed bearings snd are not in contact with the water. Its not the impeller or the housing is it he carbon ceramic seal?
Perhaps the "best" coolant is the snake oil referred to....I googled snake oil coolant but could not find any...suggestions?
Bob Renton

 

[Paul_G]

I went to Walmart to get some distilled water and coolant, 1 stop shopping. (picked up some ammo too while there) All they had was "all makes and models" coolant, and some GM Dexcool. Nothing that said OAT or HOAT.

 

[Ranger16]

Out of curiosity....
".....lubricates the water pump". What part of the water pump needs lubricated? Its not the shaft bearings...they are sealed bearings snd are not in contact with the water. Its not the impeller or the housing is it he carbon ceramic seal?
Perhaps the "best" coolant is the snake oil referred to....I googled snake oil coolant but could not find any...suggestions?
Bob Renton

My understanding is that the lubricant was always for the WP bearings. Can't imagine anything else that could need lubricant.

By "snake oil", I meant the aftermarket additives, not the coolant itself. None of the coolants he mentioned are what I would consider snake oil.

 

[Paul_G]

Could the lubricant for be for the water pump seals?

 

[Billccm]

I’ll wait. In the late 80s, GM came out with the permanent stuff. Orange. Dexron? Engine killer. Green only for me every 2-3 years. I keep an eye on the electrolysis with test strip.

It was called Dexcool and the general public called it Deathcool. Don't get me started on my 2001 Impala nightmares.

 

[RJRENTON]

My understanding is that the lubricant was always for the WP bearings. Can't imagine anything else that could need lubricant.

By "snake oil", I meant the aftermarket additives, not the coolant itself. None of the coolants he mentioned are what I would consider snake oil.

If the water pump bearings are not in the coolant stream or have any contact with it, then why are we adding it? In days of old, water pump bearings (usually a brass bushing/sleeve) were in the coolant stream then it was a "soluable oil" compound that when added to water (coolant) turned the water a milky white color.
What is the "best" coolant to use....its a matter of personal preference or what ever your next door neighbor's brother-in-law's cousin's best buddy's friend uses in his Camry.....(facetiously noted)...after all, that person is an "expert" in just about everything (...!!!..). Perhaps consider using what the factory uses as the initial fill...just a thought... BTW...I use a 50% mix of Dexcool and water in my RS23V0A****** without any problems.
Bob Renton

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Out of curiosity....
".....lubricates the water pump". What part of the water pump needs lubricated? Its not the shaft bearings...they are sealed bearings snd are not in contact with the water. Its not the impeller or the housing is it he carbon ceramic seal?
Perhaps the "best" coolant is the snake oil referred to....I googled snake oil coolant but could not find any...suggestions?
Bob Renton

Nothing actually lubricates the water pump, but it is a very common marketing claim for antifreeze manufacturers

 

[PurpleBeeper]

It was called Dexcool and the general public called it Deathcool. Don't get me started on my 2001 Impala nightmares.

Interesting story behind "deathcool".....it wasn't the coolant that was the problem. Dexcool is BY FAR the #1 coolant used in the USA, although most of it is sold under a different name due to the bad press about "deathcool". Peak Long Life (in the parts stores) is one "dexcool" formula.

The problem it turns out was an incompatibility with some rubbers (GM used a lot of these rubbers). One of the main ingredients of Dexcool is 2-ethylhexanoic acid (aka potassium or sodium ethylhexanoate) which can eat up some rubbers. Gasket manufacturers changed the rubbers they use & the problem is now a thing of the past.

 

[RJRENTON]

The 2-ethylhexanoic acid, is an organic acid used as a corrosion inhibitor, in addition, sebaeciate added also intead of silicate. I believe it has a slightly better specific heat characteristics to aid in heat transfer....metal to coolant, coolant to air. Works well in aluminium engines.
Bob Renton

 

[Ranger16]

If the water pump bearings are not in the coolant stream or have any contact with it, then why are we adding it?

WE aren't.It's the manufacturers who are, unless that to is a thing of the past. PurpleBeeper could probably answer that better than I. I may be out of touch with coolant development.

Perhaps consider using what the factory uses as the initial fill...just a thought..

Agreed

BTW...I use a 50% mix of Dexcool and water in my RS23V0A****** without any problems.

Same here. Been using it since it came out without any problems.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

The 2-ethylhexanoic acid, is an organic acid used as a corrosion inhibitor, in addition, sebaeciate added also intead of silicate. I believe it has a slightly better specific heat characteristics to aid in heat transfer....metal to coolant, coolant to air. Works well in aluminium engines.
Bob Renton

You are correct about the blend.....2-ethylhexanoic acid + sebacic acid = Dexcool. These organic acids (salts actually) are used because they don't break down as quickly as inorganic acid salts. Silicates work very well at protecting aluminum, but I think it's Asia that banned silicates, so Japanese vehicles are silicate-free

 

[Ron H]

Interesting as I have a buddy who swears by some anti-freeze his shop's truck fleet uses can't recall it offhand; it's orange colored and runs some 25 bucks a gallon (not the GM stuff). Someone put me on to reducing the ratio of anti freeze to thwart an over heating problem and this seemed to help though I did several other things as well including adding 'water-wetter' I hadn't heard of. In any case my engine runs cooler now. I have around a 70-30 mix and should be good as I don't drive my ride in winter and sits in a heated garage.

 

[RJRENTON]

PB,
Depending on the supplier, say ACDelco, their total composition is:
Ethylene glycol 80 - 95%
Diethylene glycol 1 - 5%
2-diethylhexanoic acid 0 - 5%
Neodecanoic acid 0 - 5%
Exact composition of individual suppliers is a trade secret and will likely vary slightly among the formulators and manufacturers. When purchasing the diluted blend, it's usually msde from a 50%/50% blend of Dexcool and deionized water (usually produced by reverse osmos). For my money, I'll supply my own water and make my own dilution....my water costs about $ 2.00 / 1000 gallons.
Bob Renton