Valve bodies for 383

[sputnik 440]

Who makes the best valve bodies for a torqueflight 727 in a 400 hp 383. Are they reconditioned or new? Street strip (I want to be able to get a smooth shift in Drive, but be able to shift with slap stick without tearing it up. No racing (on track). I have a race kit in it now and it won'f downshift until a complete stop. Accelerating in 3rd at 5 mph just doesn't seem right. Right now it has a 2400 TC and a 3.91

 

[Photon440]

How's the adjustment on the kickdown linkage?

 

[sputnik 440]

How's the adjustment on the kickdown linkage?

It is adjustable by cable. I have a FAST efi on it. I can change the 1-2, 2-3 rpms at shift, but no down shift. Could be the governor, but the guy that built the drive train said it had a Transco? shift kit in it that would not let it automatically down shift or kick into a passing gear. If I wanted to shift all day, I't take out my GTX or Viper. I just would like to cruise knowing I could get the most out of my acceleration without manually dropping to 2nd. Make sense?

 

[mopar 3 B]

It is adjustable by cable. I have a FAST efi on it. I can change the 1-2, 2-3 rpms at shift, but no down shift. Could be the governor, but the guy that built the drive train said it had a Transco? shift kit in it that would not let it automatically down shift or kick into a passing gear. If I wanted to shift all day, I't take out my GTX or Viper. I just would like to cruise knowing I could get the most out of my acceleration without manually dropping to 2nd. Make sense?

You are getting awful lazy. By the way do not use 2nd as passing gear. 3rd to 2nd downs under power are a definitely a no no. Unless you just like replacing parts.

 

[Photon440]

You are getting awful lazy. By the way do not use 2nd as passing gear. 3rd to 2nd downs under power are a definitely a no no. Unless you just like replacing parts.

Isn't that how the factory intended?

 

[493 Mike]

Who makes the best valve bodies for a torqueflight 727 in a 400 hp 383. Are they reconditioned or new? Street strip (I want to be able to get a smooth shift in Drive, but be able to shift with slap stick without tearing it up. No racing (on track). I have a race kit in it now and it won'f downshift until a complete stop. Accelerating in 3rd at 5 mph just doesn't seem right. Right now it has a 2400 TC and a 3.91

It's not correct. Any shift I have installed maintains OEM like downshifts. Has it always acted this way? There are options with the Transgo kits, some with full manual control.
Mike

 

[Yatzee]

Who makes the best valve bodies for a torqueflight 727 in a 400 hp 383. Are they reconditioned or new? Street strip (I want to be able to get a smooth shift in Drive, but be able to shift with slap stick without tearing it up. No racing (on track). I have a race kit in it now and it won'f downshift until a complete stop. Accelerating in 3rd at 5 mph just doesn't seem right. Right now it has a 2400 TC and a 3.91

TCI without a doubt. Has built in anti-drainback and an integrated shift kit.

 

[wyrmrider]

Get a valvebody and buy the big transgo reprogramming kit
put it in yourself
or call Dave at transgo and he can give you someone local 2 U that will do it for you
you can have "back to low" or not
sounds like you already have a race valve body , maybe even reverse selection
Gil Younger had a patent on the anti drainback mod to the valve but it's run out so everyone else copies
there are actually several ways to do it- we used to use a big mill bastard file to narrow the outside of the casting
your not going to find new but a quality re-builder will check all the wear places
USE ATF 4+ even without a lockup unless you have some very specific clutches

 

[sputnik 440]

Hey, I want to thank you guys....I think. Actually I am more confused now than when I posted. Let me try to convey what I heard. Mopar 3B, no, I would not shift down to 2nd to pass, unless it was in and Arkansas passing lane that is only 200" long and with a hill and curve coming up. However, what is it a "passing gear" does? Photon, seems like that is how the factory intended it on all my mopars since my '56 Dodge. 493 Mike, not quite sure who you were addressing. "maintains oem like downshifts". Does that mean my trans with a "race" shift kit should downshift as I come down to..say, 25 mph? This one won't, but could it be a stuck governor that comes unstuck at a complete stop? "Full manual control", like you can only shift it manually? Yantzee, " anti-drainback and an integrated shift kit." is this good or bad? Should I be looking at this, or do I have a case of it now? Finally Wyrmrider, I found a trans guy that talks a good game, but I only know one "racer" that has used him, and then only one time, but he was ok with him. What is reverse selection?

I'm wondering if it doesn't sound like I should just live with what I got and treat it as all my other stick shifts. Until it blows up.......... Thanks guys, you can tell, I am not a torqueflight guy. I haven't had a Mopar auto since I had to trade my new '65 Sport Fury for a 64 Chrysler 2 dr Newport..sad.

 

[Bobzilla]

Can you describe exactly what it does? When starting off from a stop at part throttle, does it start off in first gear, and then what speed and RPM does it shift to 2nd, and then again to third?
Another guy recently had a problem with one of those cable setups for throttle input and kickdown funtion, and he ended finding that the cable system ratio did not match the transmission ratio, referring only to throttle pedal input. If your cable attachment at the Fitech throttle lever is too close to the pivot point, and you only checked full throttle position or closed throttle position at the trans, then it may not be getting enough throttle input to downshift. This would also cause the upshift to 2nd and 3rd to happen too early at too low speed and RPM, which is how I read your description about "accelerating in 3rd at 5 mph." If I understand that statement correctly, your kickdown cable needs to be thoroughly checked for travel and adjustment at closed throttle, half throttle, and full throttle.
If all this fails to find a problem, an answer to your original question is to call A and A Trans or Cope racing for valve body recommendations.
Sorry for long post.

 

[wyrmrider]

Full manual valvebodies do not kickdown and do not have part throttle downshift

Full manual valve bodies can either have a standard PRND2L or Reverse where you shift

PRN12D _shifting away from N and R some think safer when racing

full manual control is no auto shift- you have to move the lever for every shift

anti-drainback keeps the converter full when you shut the motor off good

there is also lube flow in park feature which is good and allow you to check your fluid in park as well as neutral

transgo kit has additional lube and other goodies IDK about others

“as all my other stick shifts” gets old for me but some pay extra for that

some racing valve bodies do not use cable or throttle pressure rod

keep asking questions- these are good ones – don't t know about the answers...

 

[Bee1971]

Turbo Action #17676

Auto or Manual shift for street use

 

[sputnik 440]

Can you describe exactly what it does? When starting off from a stop at part throttle, does it start off in first gear, and then what speed and RPM does it shift to 2nd, and then again to third?
Another guy recently had a problem with one of those cable setups for throttle input and kickdown funtion, and he ended finding that the cable system ratio did not match the transmission ratio, referring only to throttle pedal input. If your cable attachment at the Fitech throttle lever is too close to the pivot point, and you only checked full throttle position or closed throttle position at the trans, then it may not be getting enough throttle input to downshift. This would also cause the upshift to 2nd and 3rd to happen too early at too low speed and RPM, which is how I read your description about "accelerating in 3rd at 5 mph." If I understand that statement correctly, your kickdown cable needs to be thoroughly checked for travel and adjustment at closed throttle, half throttle, and full throttle.
If all this fails to find a problem, an answer to your original question is to call A and A Trans or Cope racing for valve body recommendations.
Sorry for long post.

Auto shift.............From a stop, I shift to D and have to play with it, especially when cold, to slip it into gear. I rev up and will start to move with maybe with 500 additional rpms. Before I made an adjustment to cable, 1-2 would shift at 2900 and 2-3 at 2900. Still no downshifts until complete stop. Adjusted cable and 1-2 at 2200 and 2-3 now at 4500 unless I get off it and "make it shift". Went back to more slack on cable ( tension at WOT) and got it to shift in D around 2700 in both 1-2 and 2-3. All these shifts are hard shifts, but not where it would seem to break something. Still no down shift until complete stop.
Manual shift.....bring it to 1st, takes right off and I will shift around 3200. 2nd gear is "hard" but abrupt, not like the pause in auto. Sift out of 2nd around 3800 into 3rd. Same "solid" shift. Deceleration 3-2 around 2000 and 2-1 about same. All smooth downshifts. You can feel them , but not as "hard" as up-shifts. Comes back to idle......smile on my face.
The mechanic that restored the car and built the trans did say that the owner he built it for was known to "play around" with modifications and adjustments. The builder put the Transgo "street/race" (more race) kit in the valve body. He did nothing with the governor. The down-shifting was meant to be done manually. It would seem in racing, there would be no reason to down-shift. But, I know the owner drove it on the street, 8,000 miles since restoration.
From what I gather, there is no buying a NEW valve body. You just find one that have been reconditioned and put what kit you want in it. Correct? If so, I don't mind spending the money to get what I need. I would rather try to change the behavior by replacing one thing at a time. Valve body, or kit swap, seems logical. BUT, what/who's valve body and what/who's kit? Of course, this is assuming it is the kit/valve body.
Thanks gentlemen for helping me through this. All of your suggestions help me understand more about 727s and remedies for "fixes".

 

[sputnik 440]

Full manual valvebodies do not kickdown and do not have part throttle downshift

Full manual valve bodies can either have a standard PRND2L or Reverse where you shift

PRN12D _shifting away from N and R some think safer when racing

full manual control is no auto shift- you have to move the lever for every shift

anti-drainback keeps the converter full when you shut the motor off good

there is also lube flow in park feature which is good and allow you to check your fluid in park as well as neutral

transgo kit has additional lube and other goodies IDK about others

“as all my other stick shifts” gets old for me but some pay extra for that

some racing valve bodies do not use cable or throttle pressure rod

keep asking questions- these are good ones – don't t know about the answers...

This helps...thanks for the explanations. I suspected the reverse shift was what you said it was. Thanks for clarification.

 

[wyrmrider]

If you think it has a transgo kit in it call Dave or Jim at transgo
IDK if their kit does reverse shift though

 

[oldbee]

IMO you should go over the kickdown linkage adjustment again & make sure it’s traveling correctly.

 

[451Mopar]

I'd call John Cope at Cope Racing Transmissions. He could also help with diagnostics of your current valve body.
http://coperacingtranscom.ipage.com/

The new webpage does not link to valvebodies, but he has several, and can build what you want.

I would start with a '71-up valve body with the partial kickdown module and install a TransGo TF-2 shift kit. You would have to swap the rooster comb selector if installing in an earlier trans. A&A does make a part throttle kick down module for the pre-1971 valve bodies, but it is $95
http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/727-3-2-Kick-Down-Module-(1966-69)__22740-32SI.aspx

 

[wyrmrider]

good advice 451

 

[451Mopar]

good advice 451

I have had that issue before, Up shifting really early, but it was long ago. Someone who works on transmissions daily should know what to check.
I am thinking my issue was related the the throttle valve, but I don't recall if it was the adjustment of the throttle valve stop screw, or the valve(s) and spring, or maybe the Kickdown detent sleeve was installed backward?