Thanks guys for everything, Felpro it is!
Now I've heard that some spread some RTV onto the gasket to ensue a good seal, but I leaning on not using it unless I find a I have a leak in an area that does not seal well.
I will hand tighten the bolts in a star pattern to ensure a level seal and then snug them down a bit further knowing that once I fire up the engine the heat will expand everything. If I see any leaks with the engine warmed up then I'll tighten up a bit more but will not wrench them down
Wow I'm gonna give that a try...Old timer taught me:
"Borrow" one of your wife's cookie sheets.
Pour regular motor oil on it, soak your cork gaskets overnight. Install finger tight only, let sit for a day or 2. Tighten to spec, run through a couple heat cycles, re- tighten, done - no leaks.
He explained to me that when engines are mass factory assembled, they always use "fresh" gasket materials. The stuff you buy from your local parts house is more than likely years old and already prone to cracking. It really just rejuvenates the material.
I've never had it fail on OE cork material.
What i like to do is to use a light coat of permatex and "glue" the gasket on the valve cover.
Then use a little bit of grease on the cylinderhead side when installing, next time you remove it the gasket stays intact and can be reused.
The gasket is there to seal and normally does not require any RTV or whatever to give a proper seal.
Old timer taught me:
"Borrow" one of your wife's cookie sheets.
Pour regular motor oil on it, soak your cork gaskets overnight. Install finger tight only, let sit for a day or 2. Tighten to spec, run through a couple heat cycles, re- tighten, done - no leaks.
He explained to me that when engines are mass factory assembled, they always use "fresh" gasket materials. The stuff you buy from your local parts house is more than likely years old and already prone to cracking. It really just rejuvenates the material.
I've never had it fail on OE cork material.