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Valve Cover Gasket Recommendations

The Rebel

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Looking to see what others recommend for an OE set of covers on a 68 383 Charger.

I'm going with the OE style with the tabs

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Never mind I kinda glazed over the fact that you said factory style..

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Just from my own experience I found the original cork style work the best on original style covers with flanges in good shape. I use napa gasket adhesive to fix them on the covers .
Let dry and install nice and snug , not to tight. No leaks.
The soft cork seems to work best with the thin steel covers.
After market , heavy built aluminum cast or fab covers work good with the heavy rubber or compound style gaskets.
I think you have to match the gaskets to the kind of cover used.
 
Thanks everyone. These are my covers

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Jmho Rebel, I would use napa or felpro cork making sure your flanges are good and bolt holes not pulled.
 
Nick went on a rant in one of his latest Nick's Garage videos when he was disassembling a 440 a customer sent him. Nick was pissed that somebody had glued on the valve covers somehow and it was a PIA to get them off without destroying them. Nick said he just uses cork and nothing else just like the factory did it.
 
Felpro cork ones, never had a single drop of oil on there.
Just be smart on tightening those bolts.
 
Edelbrock makes a set with tabs also
https://www.edelbrock.com/valve-cover-gasket-set-for-chrysler-7591.html


I run the old Fel Pro rubber gaskets with tabs that where made many moons ago and are no longer sold - I cleaned out Rockauto when they went on clearance years ago

Those real gaskets look pretty nice also

Problem with a lot of these valve cover gaskets is HEAT
With the HP Exhaust Manifolds , they cook the valve cover gaskets on the bottom side

Gotta love the Exhaust Manifold gaskets from Fel Pro that protect the Valve Covers
from heat
 
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Thanks guys for everything, Felpro it is!

Now I've heard that some spread some RTV onto the gasket to ensue a good seal, but I leaning on not using it unless I find a I have a leak in an area that does not seal well.

I will hand tighten the bolts in a star pattern to ensure a level seal and then snug them down a bit further knowing that once I fire up the engine the heat will expand everything. If I see any leaks with the engine warmed up then I'll tighten up a bit more but will not wrench them down
 
Thanks guys for everything, Felpro it is!

Now I've heard that some spread some RTV onto the gasket to ensue a good seal, but I leaning on not using it unless I find a I have a leak in an area that does not seal well.

I will hand tighten the bolts in a star pattern to ensure a level seal and then snug them down a bit further knowing that once I fire up the engine the heat will expand everything. If I see any leaks with the engine warmed up then I'll tighten up a bit more but will not wrench them down

What i like to do is to use a light coat of permatex and "glue" the gasket on the valve cover.
Then use a little bit of grease on the cylinderhead side when installing, next time you remove it the gasket stays intact and can be reused.
The gasket is there to seal and normally does not require any RTV or whatever to give a proper seal.
 
Ok so after doing some more research and seeing others have recommended to apply a thin layer, I've decided to go this route, wanna do it right the 1st time and not have to go back and fix it later.

If I apply an 1/8" bead on both sides is this small tube going to be enough or do I need to go larger?

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That looks like a regular size tube. That would be more than enough if you want to use it.
 
Old timer taught me:
"Borrow" one of your wife's cookie sheets.
Pour regular motor oil on it, soak your cork gaskets overnight. Install finger tight only, let sit for a day or 2. Tighten to spec, run through a couple heat cycles, re- tighten, done - no leaks.
He explained to me that when engines are mass factory assembled, they always use "fresh" gasket materials. The stuff you buy from your local parts house is more than likely years old and already prone to cracking. It really just rejuvenates the material.
I've never had it fail on OE cork material.
 
Old timer taught me:
"Borrow" one of your wife's cookie sheets.
Pour regular motor oil on it, soak your cork gaskets overnight. Install finger tight only, let sit for a day or 2. Tighten to spec, run through a couple heat cycles, re- tighten, done - no leaks.
He explained to me that when engines are mass factory assembled, they always use "fresh" gasket materials. The stuff you buy from your local parts house is more than likely years old and already prone to cracking. It really just rejuvenates the material.
I've never had it fail on OE cork material.
Wow I'm gonna give that a try...
 
What i like to do is to use a light coat of permatex and "glue" the gasket on the valve cover.
Then use a little bit of grease on the cylinderhead side when installing, next time you remove it the gasket stays intact and can be reused.
The gasket is there to seal and normally does not require any RTV or whatever to give a proper seal.

Old timer taught me:
"Borrow" one of your wife's cookie sheets.
Pour regular motor oil on it, soak your cork gaskets overnight. Install finger tight only, let sit for a day or 2. Tighten to spec, run through a couple heat cycles, re- tighten, done - no leaks.
He explained to me that when engines are mass factory assembled, they always use "fresh" gasket materials. The stuff you buy from your local parts house is more than likely years old and already prone to cracking. It really just rejuvenates the material.
I've never had it fail on OE cork material.


Both sound great and consistent with my experience.
 
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