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Valve Lash

Gospel Runner

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:19 PM
Joined
Nov 24, 2008
Messages
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Location
CT
I have a 70 Road Runner with a 440 that I have just taken out of storage after 14 years. I had this 440 built about 12 years ago and it was dynode then at 700 HP. This is the first time this engine has been in the car running. It is bored out .30 over, stroked and 13.5 : 1 CR; Indy I heads; .691 lift; solid lifters. I set the lash at .21 just to get the engine started, but I would like to know if anyone can tell me what the lash should be for this kind of set up? It has been a while since I was tinkering with this engine and I have forgotten quite a bit. Your help would be greatly appreciated.
 
With out a cam card it's a shot in the dark. I'd go .020/.020 hot. See how it runs, personally I'd play with it a bit from there, try looser then tighter and see if it picks up. Any idea who ground the cam?? That may help
 
With out a cam card it's a shot in the dark. I'd go .020/.020 hot. See how it runs, personally I'd play with it a bit from there, try looser then tighter and see if it picks up. Any idea who ground the cam?? That may help
 
I just remember buying all these parts from Indy Cylinders and bringing the parts to my engine builder. I have gone through a divorce and moved a couple times since then, so I doubt that I can put my hands on that dyno sheet or find the engine builder. Even if I could find him I don't know that he would remember one engine from 12 years ago.
 
Wow, .691 lift seems like alot for a standard flat tappet cam. I used to have a mushroom lifter cam in my 413, and it had .690 lift. Comp cams has a flat tappet drag race cam that gets .650" lift. It also has 305 degrees of duration, and lash is set at .020/.022. Is this a drag race only car? Just curious, what kind of fuel are you using at 13.5 to 1 C/Ratio? Thanks
 
YEP, I'M GOING TO YELL THIS POST. 12 YEARS IDLE? PLEASE DON'T FIRE THIS ENGINE WITHOUT TEARING IT DOWN AND RELUBING AND CHECKING EVERYTHING. THE VALVE LASH COULD BE THE LEAST OF YOUR PROBLEMS RIGHT NOW. YOU JUST DON'T TAKE A CHANCE WITH AN ENGINE LIKE THAT HAVING SET THAT LONG. I was talking with an engine builder just Friday that had two customers, one with a 426 Hemi and the other with a 427 Ford. They each let their engines set for two to four years without firing them. One engine destroyed the pistons and the other sized entirely right after start up. Both engines had been broken in and tuned on the dyno before being delivered to the owners so they were good, solid engines when the owner received them.
 
YEP, I'M GOING TO YELL THIS POST. 12 YEARS IDLE? PLEASE DON'T FIRE THIS ENGINE WITHOUT TEARING IT DOWN AND RELUBING AND CHECKING EVERYTHING. THE VALVE LASH COULD BE THE LEAST OF YOUR PROBLEMS RIGHT NOW. YOU JUST DON'T TAKE A CHANCE WITH AN ENGINE LIKE THAT HAVING SET THAT LONG. I was talking with an engine builder just Friday that had two customers, one with a 426 Hemi and the other with a 427 Ford. They each let their engines set for two to four years without firing them. One engine destroyed the pistons and the other sized entirely right after start up. Both engines had been broken in and tuned on the dyno before being delivered to the owners so they were good, solid engines when the owner received them.
This car originally began as a race car only build. I am in a totally different place right now. I just want to drive the car. I am using 110 octane race fuel. Once I get all of the bugs taken care of, I will paint the car. I am in the process of making a shroud to fit two 12 inch fans over my griffin radiator. Once that is done I am going to take care of the wiring. It is a mess. My friend told me I should just get a new wiring harness and start over again.
 
This car originally began as a race car only build. I am in a totally different place right now. I just want to drive the car. I am using 110 octane race fuel. Once I get all of the bugs taken care of, I will paint the car. I am in the process of making a shroud to fit two 12 inch fans over my griffin radiator. Once that is done I am going to take care of the wiring. It is a mess. My friend told me I should just get a new wiring harness and start over again.
I already started the motor. I set everything at .21 and it fired right up. This thing is a beast. Keep in mind where I am coming from. It originally came with a 383 and the motor was tired. Back then I raced a few of my friends who had mustangs and got beat pretty bad and consistently. I took the motor out and rebuilt it at .30 over and put a 750 holley on it. I started winning after that. Then I put NOS on it. Just a 125 shot, but I did not know enough to check to see if the oil pan had any baffles. It didn't and the result was cabooom. I blew it up due to oil starvation to the sump. That's when I built the 440. That is the reason I call it a beast. I did manually activate the oil pump to make sure oil was getting to the top of the motor, rockers, lifters, and push rods. I also removed each plug and turned the engine over by hand to index it to each cylinder to set the lash. It ran like it did several years ago on the dyno. Back then I was in a booth behind a Plexiglas window. It was raw being in the car and feeling the earth shake. I will post the video of the start up when I get a moment. Are there any instructions around here to tell you how to do that?
 
I will post the video of the start up when I get a moment. Are there any instructions around here to tell you how to do that?
Best thing is to download it on YouTube, then post the link on here. It will automatically show the video in your post...
 
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