What is the best way to set valve lash on a 440 w/ hyd. lifters with adjustable rockers ?
Valve lash
- Thread starter O'l geezer
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diesel_lv
Well-Known Member
I go one cylinder at a time, bring piston to TDC on compression stroke, both valves closed on base circle of cam. Start tightening the adjuster and lightly spinning pushrod between thumb n index finger until you just feel a drag on pushrod. Then tighten adjuster 1/2 to 3/4 turns, snug locking nut. Do both then move to next cylinder at TDC of compression stroke and repeat.
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Zeppelin264
Well-Known Member
Couldn't have said it better myself. I use this exact same method! Haven't had a problem yet.
Depending on the cam TDC might not put it on the base circle. Adjust intake when the exh starts to open. Adjust exh when intake starts to close.
Doug
Doug
The only way it should be done.
Geoff 2
Well-Known Member
There is a much simpler way, only requires 2 full turns of the crank & is in Chrysler literature. So must be correct......
It works for cams up to 290 deg @ 050 [ huge ], very few using these. A lot of totally unnecessary work with the above method.
You adjust 4 valves at each point, 2 int & 2 exh.
This is the sequence:
- TDC #1 firing: 2,7; 4,8
- rotate 180* : 1,8; 3, 6
- rotate 180* [ #6 firing ]: 3,4; 5,7
- rotate 180: 5,6; 1,2
It works for cams up to 290 deg @ 050 [ huge ], very few using these. A lot of totally unnecessary work with the above method
You adjust 4 valves at each point, 2 int & 2 exh.
This is the sequence:
- TDC #1 firing: 2,7; 4,8
- rotate 180* : 1,8; 3, 6
- rotate 180* [ #6 firing ]: 3,4; 5,7
- rotate 180: 5,6; 1,2
2quick
Well-Known Member
EOIC method is my prefered way to do it, but I have a built in starter bump button that I plug in when I need to rotate engine and makes it very easy. Dont even need the key to be on. They make clip on one that attaches to the starter also.
Exhaust starts to open, adjust the intake valve; Intake just closes, adjust the exhaust valve. Adjust the screw to remove all of the lash in the pushrod, then turn another 1/2 to 3/4 turn and tighten jam nut.
IQ52
Well-Known Member
I think I would like to know what the manufacture requires for that particular lifter as some require different adjustments other than 1/2-3/4 turn. After consulting with the engineers I have been advised to use 1/8 turn of pre-load all the way to tighten out all the pre-load until the internals bottom and then back off 1/4 turn.
Wow
Geoff 2
Well-Known Member
All hyd lifters adjust the same way. It really depends on what's your pleasure.
The post #10 method is the safest.
The reason lifters are adjusted 1/4- 1/8 turn down, & not more like multiple turns on the adjuster, is to avoid lifter pump up. But it comes with risk....
Unless the lifters have a secure circlip, & most have the paper clip variety, if the lifter pumps up it can & will push out the prod seat past the c'clip. Result is bits in the engine, possible bent prods...or worse. The Sealed Power anti pump lifters, sold by various companies, have a strong [ er ] sheet metal clip so that this supposedly cannot happen. It does, I have seen it.
When lifter pump up occurs, all else being equal, it is usually the int lifter that pumps up first, for two reasons:
- the valve is heavier
- it is not opening against combustion pressure which would valve control
The symptom of int valve pump up is light backfiring/misfiring coming up through the carb or induction system. Sometimes called 'shooting ducks'. You are hearing the combustion cycle through the valve which is off the seat due to pump up.
By setting the pre-load as in post #10, you are giving yourself some warning. When you hear the noise, lift off the loud pedal. With the lifter adjusted the other way, you may have already popped out the prod seat before you hear strange sounds....
The post #10 method is the safest.
The reason lifters are adjusted 1/4- 1/8 turn down, & not more like multiple turns on the adjuster, is to avoid lifter pump up. But it comes with risk....
Unless the lifters have a secure circlip, & most have the paper clip variety, if the lifter pumps up it can & will push out the prod seat past the c'clip. Result is bits in the engine, possible bent prods...or worse. The Sealed Power anti pump lifters, sold by various companies, have a strong [ er ] sheet metal clip so that this supposedly cannot happen. It does, I have seen it.
When lifter pump up occurs, all else being equal, it is usually the int lifter that pumps up first, for two reasons:
- the valve is heavier
- it is not opening against combustion pressure which would valve control
The symptom of int valve pump up is light backfiring/misfiring coming up through the carb or induction system. Sometimes called 'shooting ducks'. You are hearing the combustion cycle through the valve which is off the seat due to pump up.
By setting the pre-load as in post #10, you are giving yourself some warning. When you hear the noise, lift off the loud pedal. With the lifter adjusted the other way, you may have already popped out the prod seat before you hear strange sounds....
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