voltage draw at fusible link

[krowbar]

Ok so I've replaced the alternator and voltage regulator. still not charging. I got it to charge once and it range from 13.5 to 15.3 volts. I noticed the Trans temp gauge jump to 250 when I turned the key to on position then it came back down to 0 after a few seconds. I've traced a 5 volt draw down to the hot wire from the starter relay that goes to the fuse block. I'm assuming that's a fusible link? I disconnected that wire from the starter relay and am down to .22 volts when I test between the neg batt cable and the neg batt post. It was 5 volts when I had the wire at the fuse block hooked to the starter relay. Any common areas to check for voltage draw? I know.. check the aftermarket gauges,but anything commonly happen like that for factory dash components. I hate spaghetti wiring from previous owners. This is on a 67 coronet 500 w/ 727

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Sounds like something is shorted to ground check all positive connections. Make sure all grounds are good what gauge wire do you have from batt to alt?

 

[krowbar]

Sounds like something is shorted to ground check all positive connections. Make sure all grounds are good what gauge wire do you have from batt to alt?

Stock wire to alt. from what I can see.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Replace the voltage reg? Some of those are know to be bad out of the box might want to get another one to see.

 

[Bee383]

My 69 bee had a voltage drop on the run 1 wire at the bulkhead.i was only getting about 8 volts at the vr.i was over-charging.messed with it until I got tired and just ended up putting a relay on it.votage drops are pretty common on these old cars.bulkhead has been the prob on mine.good luck.btw I have gotten vr bad out of box.

 

[krowbar]

I found the culprit...shorted alt. I don't know how to check the vr. How do I test it to make sure it's working? I'm bringing my ohm meter to the part store and will check the replacement alt. to see if it's got a short before I get all the way home. Will a bad vr fry the alternator?

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Replace the voltage reg? Some of those are know to be bad out of the box might want to get another one to see.

Just put new one on before because it wasn't charging. How can I test the vr?

 

[krowbar]

OMFG... I've been trying to get an alternator from Orielly. They have them but I asked them to test the replacement one....TEST-fail. That happened with 2 different alt. The testing machine determined that the test lead was bad.sooo they ordered a new one. Next day I go in and BAM! same ****,test lead fail. That happened on 3 different alt. They said they would take all the alternators to the closest store and test em there. If they test bad there,they can kiss my ***...try a different brand.

 

[747mopar]

Ever thought about just throwing a one wire alt on it and be done with both (alt & vr). If you've never ran one you just bolt it on and run your wire from it to the battery positive and your done. Your wire size will depend on which alt you get (75amp, 100 amp, etc).

 

[krowbar]

If this crap doesn't work than I probably will. Right now I'm just trying to get a dual field alt that works because I already bought a new voltage reg. I saw summit has chrome 1 wire alts for $116. Anybody have them cheaper than that?

 

[747mopar]

My local Auto Value store can get them pretty cheap but not the higher amp ones like I bought, I bought the Tuff one wire from Summit.

 

[krowbar]

Still no charge with new alt. I can't believe nobody knows how to test one of these voltage regulators. It's an electronic remake of the old points type.

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My local Auto Value store can get them pretty cheap but not the higher amp ones like I bought, I bought the Tuff one wire from Summit.

What year and make car can I look up for that one wire.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

What system points ,electronic?

The Charging System Test

Remove the (+) FLD wire from the alternator.
Put a temporary jumper wire from the same (+) FLD terminal to the large output post on the alternator (battery +).
Start the car and see if it charges. If it does… good alternator. If not … bad alternator. If it did charge, then the voltage regulator is the problem child.
Turn the ignition key to the on position. Check for power on the small IGN terminal of the regulator. If there is, then see if there is any power on the other voltage regulator post to the alternator. A bad ground on the voltage regulator case is a very common problem. If not then you need to chase down the IGN power issue.


Charging system troubleshooting....MTSC




http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/228/Page07.htm

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/236/page12.htm

http://www.mymopar.com/charging.htm

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=3424.0

 

[krowbar]

I have an electronic replacement version of the old points style regulator. I have it wired the same way as the last one that was on there,it was the same style with the little circuit board inside(no points). I have 12 volts to ign side of reg with car not running 12 volts at alt pos post. When I turn the key to on I have 12 to reg but only 11 at alt. I haven't been able to run it very long to check because radiator is plugged and the engine gets hot quick. I noticed the ammeter barely moved from center when I do run it. Volt meter at battery at 12.4 when running. My thought is bad voltage reg but I don't want to buy another if there might be a different cause to the no charge. I guess I'll try to full field the alt and see if it charges on the car. I had part store test the alt before I bought it and they said it passed. But that's the part store numbnuts saying that.

 

[SwedCharger67]

A few things that came to my mind:
- there is no such thing as a "voltage draw". What you can have is "current draw". To measure the voltage between the ground cable and the negative battery post is meaningless. What you need to do is switch the meter to the Amps (or milliamps) setting, and measure the current draw. This will tell you if you have a current leak in your system.

- it's unclear to me if you have an alternator with 1 field terminal, or the one with 2 field terminals.
For the 1-terminal type you need a regulator that's outputting 12V to the field winding.
For the 2-terminal type you need a regulator that's shorting one terminal of the field winding to ground. The other field terminal is supplied with 12V.

- For testing the alternator you can connect 12V to the field terminal, the other end need to be shorted to ground. To connect the field terminal to the output stud may work, and it may not work, it's catch-22. If it works it means there is little bit of magnetism left even without any current in the field winding, and it may actually work it's way up to full function. But it's better, and more predictable, to have an external 12V source for the field winding.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

Good grounds connections between the battery,engine & body cannot be stressed enough...Confirm this...The basic function of the charging system is controlled by the regulator, the case requires a good ground......Pre 70 used a mechanical style regulator with 1 field connection on the alternator..Check bulkhead connector Main feed lines, loose connections at ammeter..Check & see if pervious owner did repairs to charging circuit...

 

[krowbar]

It's a dual field alt and one side IS grounded. Can I just disconnect the voltage regulator and Connect those two wires together? basically taking the voltage regulator out of the circuit. this should give 12 volts to the field on the alternator and should charge at max output?

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

No do not just bypass the reg! lol Are you sure the ground on your alt is good and solid? good to bare metal the chassis? Other option if you want to upgrade is to go with one wire tuff stuff alt and a msd style ignition system.

 

[krowbar]

Got msd 6a. Good grounds. I'm not gonna leave it bypassed,only gonna check the alt output. Don't want to spend that much on an alt.

 

[SwedCharger67]

It's a dual field alt and one side IS grounded. Can I just disconnect the voltage regulator and Connect those two wires together? basically taking the voltage regulator out of the circuit. this should give 12 volts to the field on the alternator and should charge at max output?

Yes you can.
The size of the current in the field winding determines the size of the output from the alternator. More current in the field winding = more power out from the alternator.

Have the wires loose and just touch them together when the engine is running. You should notice it charging without any instruments (assuming the battery takes some charge). It will put a load on your engine, and if your exhaust isn't too loud you might even hear the alternator charging.

Do it just for a moment, your system might not be designed for a continous full 12V to the field winding.

 

[krowbar]

Yes you can.
The size of the current in the field winding determines the size of the output from the alternator. More current in the field winding = more power out from the alternator.

Have the wires loose and just touch them together when the engine is running. You should notice it charging without any instruments (assuming the battery takes some charge). It will put a load on your engine, and if your exhaust isn't too loud you might even hear the alternator charging.

Do it just for a moment, your system might not be designed for a continous full 12V to the field winding.

That's what I planned. No way I'll be able to hear the alt. with flowmaster 2 Chambers and 3 inch pipes exiting out the sides. I'll just get somebody to watch the volt meter at the battery. I guess there is no way to bench test the regulator?