Voltage regulator or???

[0DegreeEngineer]

The issue i am having is i have 18v at idle at the battery.

I have a recently rebuilt square back with the secondary field grounded, and a new solid state voltage regulator, and my volt meter is showing resistance when testing from positive to field with key on and balast resistor unplugged I am getting a volt reading of 2.004V DC on the field side and I have .48V DC on the ignition side of the voltage regulator.

According to the FSM if i am understanding it correctly. That means that the voltage regulator is bad, now would that be correct or am I missing a step here? (The fsm states high voltage above .55v means resistance In circuit)

This is a 440 with electronic ignition if that makes a difference.

Also there is a wire that goes from my alternator to the starter relay on the firewall, when I remove it my ammeter shows an over charging condition, I believe I should remove this correct? Also when Removed the battery is still showing an over charge condition.

 

[RJRENTON]

The issue i am having is i have 18v at idle at the battery.

I have a recently rebuilt square back with the secondary field grounded, and a new solid state voltage regulator, and my volt meter is showing resistance when testing from positive to field with key on and balast resistor unplugged I am getting a volt reading of 2.004V DC on the field side and I have .48V DC on the ignition side of the voltage regulator.

According to the FSM if i am understanding it correctly. That means that the voltage regulator is bad, now would that be correct or am I missing a step here? (The fsm states high voltage above .55v means resistance In circuit)

This is a 440 with electronic ignition if that makes a difference.

Also there is a wire that goes from my alternator to the starter relay on the firewall, when I remove it my ammeter shows an over charging condition, I believe I should remove this correct? Also when Removed the battery is still showing an over charge condition.View attachment 1733404View attachment 1733406

If you have a "square back" alternator, why are you showing a "round" alternator in your pix? This is the 5th or 6th question you've posed. As mentioned by others, IF an over charging condition exists, as you note, REPLACE the voltage regulator and ensure it's grounded. ARE YOU USING THE OLD MECHANICAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR OR THE ELECTRONIC REPLACEMENT VOLTAGE REGULATOR or do you know what you have as both the mechanical voltage regulator electronic voltage regulator replacement MUST BE GROUNDED or have you changed the vehicle's wiring. IF you have changed to MOPAR's electronic regulator, the grounded brush on the alternator must be changed to an ungrounded brush arrangement and a 2nd wire added to the regulator. This was also suggested by Dragon Slayer previously. WHAT DO YOU NOT UNDERSTAND ABOUT HOW THE CHARGING SYSTEM OPERATES?? Have you measured the alternator's field voltage to ground,while in operation (assuming you are still using the square back alternator as first noted)? What is the field voltage?
BOB RENTON,

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

I posted this at the same time as the other thread, I apologize for the over posting just was looking for answers as quickly as possible I appreciate your help.

I am using an electronic replacement voltage regulator (69 oe style not 70 and later) and have a new one i will be installing in the next few days, the picture was from before the round back failed, but I have got a square back now with the secondary field grounded so it can be used as a single field. I have not modified the oe wiring in anyway on that car only purchased replacement harnesses for my specific set up from year one.

I can get you the field voltage measurements tomorrow I am out of town this evening.

 

[Some Car Guy]

I would run the electronic old style one with a ground to the engine. I want to make a post about this due to all the charging issue posts I see. For some reason it won’t let me create a new thread on this board.

The solid state 69 down regulator of course needs a good ground, but it must come from a source other than a battery. I was told that might’ve been why I smoked the first regulator. With it grounded to the block I now have 14.5 volts at the battery and the alternator stud. With it grounded with sanded off paint on the firewall it produced 13.3.

Edit- it just let me post a thread on this