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Water Pump?

wthalin

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Fired up the project car after sitting for a while. Heard an odd sound and noticed the fan started wobbling like it was about to take off from the block. Guessing this means a new water pump is in order. What parts should I replace while I am digging into this? Worth replacing the housing and gasket or just the water pump?
 
Big block? If so just the water pump and gasket. A new thermostat could be in order too.
 
The obviuos correct thing is a complete cooling system service...coolant, t-stat, hoses, clamps, belts possible radiator rod-out or boil out.
 
If big block, the housing is probably cast iron and OK. I have had a problem in the past with LA small block housings. They are aluminum, and I had one corrode badly and spring a leak.
 
My 2-cents? Water pump & gasket, thermostat (as mentioned) and a cooling system flush.
 
Thanks for the replies. Yes, big block 383. Looking at Mancinis for parts. I will probably do the stat, belts, coolant, and hoses while I am at it. This is the right gasket, yeah?

https://www.manciniracing.com/mowapuga.html

Also saw water pump outlet gaskets and spacers. Do I need any of that stuff?
 
Right gasket. I don't know what spacers you are talking about. How about a under hood picture so we can look around or spot possible problems?
 
Fired up the project car after sitting for a while. Heard an odd sound and noticed the fan started wobbling like it was about to take off from the block. Guessing this means a new water pump is in order. What parts should I replace while I am digging into this? Worth replacing the housing and gasket or just the water pump?
IMO...
Just replace the pump assembly and depending on the length of time that has passed, the hoses, t-stat, and coolant should be replaced as well. The origional mechanism of failure of water pump is the shaft bearing failed followed by the shaft seal (coolant leaking out of the weep/vent hole).
If overheating has been a problem, consider installing a high volume pump such as a Flowkooler design as it moves considerably more water (higher Gallons/Minute) than tge stock Mopar pump. Remember, volume and the velocity the coolant circulates, is the key to efficient operation, in spite of the belief of others, that velocity should be slow.
www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com. Select your application.
BOB RENTON
 
Thanks for the tip. They sell Flowkooler at Mancini as well. If a few bucks more makes a difference over the mopar pump it's worth it to me.

IMO...
Just replace the pump assembly and depending on the length of time that has passed, the hoses, t-stat, and coolant should be replaced as well. The origional mechanism of failure of water pump is the shaft bearing failed followed by the shaft seal (coolant leaking out of the weep/vent hole).
If overheating has been a problem, consider installing a high volume pump such as a Flowkooler design as it moves considerably more water (higher Gallons/Minute) than tge stock Mopar pump. Remember, volume and the velocity the coolant circulates, is the key to efficient operation, in spite of the belief of others, that velocity should be slow.
www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com. Select your application.
BOB RENTON
 
You will open a can of worms here. I like and use 160's here. Many will swear by 180's. Only you know how your car normally runs or for that matter what's in it now.
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Thanks for the tip. They sell Flowkooler at Mancini as well. If a few bucks more makes a difference over the mopar pump it's worth it to me.

As for the can of worms noted elsewhere, YES..... the on going discussions regarding which is the best range to use, 160°F or 180°F ? Just remember that the t-stat controls the minimum coolant temperature not the maximum temperature. Once the t-stat is open, the radiator will control the temperature based on surface area (fins per inch) and not entirely on the number of tubes and their size and the circulated volume of coolant. Then there is the best coolant to use and its concentration controversy.....especially the Evans proponents. The choice is yours.....
BOB RENTON
 
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