Yeah I know don't buy the cheap reproduction parts off evil-bay. The torsion bar cross member has been a pain from day one. I never opened the box for three or four weeks. I looked good once I did. I worked diligently cutting the floor away just to get it between the rockers. Once I had it just sitting there the bad started to show up. It was about an inch too short and it had a twist to it that made the left front mount higher than the other three. Not to let it get the best of me I cut all four tabs off and welded angle iron in their place. Before I go further this isn't or wasn't to be a show car just something to work on and pour my money into.
Finishing that repair up I thought to my self well it won't be long now. Little did I know the left front frame rail had several holes in it. when I looked the car over before buying it that was one of the things I looked at by crawling under it the seller's driveway. So I took apart the left front suspension and didn't notice any rust damage. However, the inside FR facing the engine had several small holes. I probed them and the holes got bigger. I checked the price online and it was more than I could afford at the time. So with a wire welder and some flat stock I "sister-ed" patches on both sides and bottom. So now came the present problem, I totally disassembled the front suspension and since the engine was out I removed and painted the "K member" the firewall and inner fenders. Oh because of rust under the hood hinge I replaced the inner fender on the driver's side. Each suspension and steering part was cleaned and painted. I had bought heavier torsion bars. Upon performing their insulation a glaring problem presented itself like a thunderclap. The tube on the left side of the torsion bar mount was cocked from parallel to the right side maybe four degrees. So now what? I have concocted an idea to carve the left mount tube then with some handy flat stock repair the two holes where that tube was. The only problem it's going this repair will have to be welded in there better than I can with mine. I'm getting ahead of myself the flat stock will have holes in it to accommodate the torsion bar mount. I could have a mobile welder come in but I'm sure it won't be cheap. I have an idea but that would another book to explain it.
Sarcastically Yours Auggie
Part two coming one of these days.
Finishing that repair up I thought to my self well it won't be long now. Little did I know the left front frame rail had several holes in it. when I looked the car over before buying it that was one of the things I looked at by crawling under it the seller's driveway. So I took apart the left front suspension and didn't notice any rust damage. However, the inside FR facing the engine had several small holes. I probed them and the holes got bigger. I checked the price online and it was more than I could afford at the time. So with a wire welder and some flat stock I "sister-ed" patches on both sides and bottom. So now came the present problem, I totally disassembled the front suspension and since the engine was out I removed and painted the "K member" the firewall and inner fenders. Oh because of rust under the hood hinge I replaced the inner fender on the driver's side. Each suspension and steering part was cleaned and painted. I had bought heavier torsion bars. Upon performing their insulation a glaring problem presented itself like a thunderclap. The tube on the left side of the torsion bar mount was cocked from parallel to the right side maybe four degrees. So now what? I have concocted an idea to carve the left mount tube then with some handy flat stock repair the two holes where that tube was. The only problem it's going this repair will have to be welded in there better than I can with mine. I'm getting ahead of myself the flat stock will have holes in it to accommodate the torsion bar mount. I could have a mobile welder come in but I'm sure it won't be cheap. I have an idea but that would another book to explain it.
Sarcastically Yours Auggie
Part two coming one of these days.
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