what is the deal with this M/C ?

[Evan Frucht]

found this disc/drum master cylinder on eBay, and haven't found anything like it on any other website yet. says its stamped Bendix, and it looks very original. I wanted to use it when I install a front disk kit. it has a 4 holes and I talked to the seller, they are spaced at an exact match to the studs in my original booster. My other option would be to go with the Aluminum master cylinder but then that needs an adapter plate and maybe an adjustable pushrod. but before I buy it I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1962-70-Mo...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

[Bill Monk]

No but it looks interesting. If you go with it, let us know what you think

 

[R/T Boy 67]

According to the info that I have, the original chrysler use of that casting number was for all 67 b bodies, and 68-69 hemi cars with power disc brakes. The original bore size was 1 1/8 inches. Being a reproduction , who knows if it is the same.

 

[Evan Frucht]

According to the info that I have, the original chrysler use of that casting number was for all 67 b bodies, and 68-69 hemi cars with power disc brakes. The original bore size was 1 1/8 inches. Being a reproduction , who knows if it is the same.

it says in the description it has a 1 1/8 bore. also says that the rear port has a 10lb valve built in.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

You might need a more powerfull booster to go with that big cylinder. I have read about some people not being happy with a drum booster with disc brakes. I had no problem, but I had a smaller cyl.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

found this disc/drum master cylinder on eBay, and haven't found anything like it on any other website yet. says its stamped Bendix, and it looks very original. I wanted to use it when I install a front disk kit. it has a 4 holes and I talked to the seller, they are spaced at an exact match to the studs in my original booster. My other option would be to go with the Aluminum master cylinder but then that needs an adapter plate and maybe an adjustable pushrod. but before I buy it I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1962-70-Mopar-Bendix-Style-Disc-Drum-Master-Cylinder-Works-with-Power-Brakes/201255398282?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I think you should definitely give this one a try. By pictures & specifications, it "looks" like a good reproduction. I have done business with Pirate Jacks in the past with good success and I believe they have an overall good reputation.

I guess one thing I suggest you double check is your booster is the one you want. You said "holes match vs. my original booster". What car? What were original brakes? (power drum?)

 

[Evan Frucht]

I think you should definitely give this one a try. By pictures & specifications, it "looks" like a good reproduction. I have done business with Pirate Jacks in the past with good success and I believe they have an overall good reputation.

I guess one thing I suggest you double check is your booster is the one you want. You said "holes match vs. my original booster". What car? What were original brakes? (power drum?)

1964 Plymouth fury, with a midland ross single diaphragm booster according to my manual. My daily driver is an old VW with manual brakes so I'm used to the feel of manual brakes. I don't care if I have to push hard, I'd actually prefer more resistance. The seller told me the bolt hole pattern on that M/C is 1.75 x 3.5 which mates up to the studs in my original booster, which is what I meant by holes match. the thing I'm a little unclear on is if the pushrod that comes with it will work properly with the set up? I'm planning to use it when I install this kit http://www.doctordiff.com/10.95-front-disc-brake-kit.html. also interested in hearing feedback about the Dr. Diff disk kits. I've read only good things so far but maybe I'm missing something.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Dr.Diff is who you want to deal with, in my opinion. The kit you are interested in is a copy of the factory 1973 and up brakes. They come in two sizes. I'm not 100% sure but the master should bolt onto your booster with no mods, other than checking the booster pushrod for proper engagement. Make sure it does not stick out to far, and push on the piston when you install the master.

 

[Jerry Hall]

I'm not sure about the numbers, but it looks just like the M/C on my 67 Hemi GTX. It also has the Kelsey Hayes front disks, the large Bendix booster, and dual piston front calipers. The best I remember 621 is the last numbers cast on the bottom.

 

[miller]

That MC your linked to, is about the same I have on my 64. Difference is, mine is the smaller bore, for manual disc/drum.
The one shown, looks to be for power brakes. Rear (larger) pot feeds the disc brakes. Also know, for it being a 'Mopar type' MC, stock type brake line fittings won't work. Can't remember the name off hand, but for the MC fittings, that mount the lines, their for Mopars alone. You can look it up...their a little deeper, than stock.
Been several years, but bought my Bendix MC new, from Napa...around $45. Mine was for a 67 Coronet...can't say it's true, but studs supposed to be hard to find. Larger diameter. On your booster, probably already have studs, right? Same thing I had to do, mine (MC) had no studs, studs with the mounting plate. I put bronze bushings in the MC stud holes, to get the right size hole.