what size stall shoud I use

[oc192]

Hello Everyone...

I have a 440hp block with the following cam:

[h=2]Part Number: 32919
Mopar Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft[/h] Chrysler/Dodge/Mopar - 350, 361, 383, 400, 413, 426 & 440B
Performance level 4 - Hot Street Beast - Explosive performance gains on top end power. Economical price.
INT/EXH - Dur @ .050” Lift: 242°/252° RR: 1.5/1.5 Gross Lift: .521”/.551” LSA: 109° RPM: 2200 to 5000 Redline: 5500


I have a 727 with manual valve body, what would be good size stall for street use and occasional red light run?

I believe the stall I have now is in the 3400 range and it seems sluggish without any pull

Thanks

 

[440beep]

What's the rear end gear? That might be your sluggish.

 

[Longroof]

Verify your stall speed. That will remove an unknown. Have you actually checked the stall speed?

 

[lewtot184]

"without any pull" may indicate issues a looser converter won't help.

 

[slepr1]

Verify your stall speed. That will remove an unknown. Have you actually checked the stall speed?

How do you check stall speed (unless you have a trans brake)?

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

Hello Everyone...

I have a 440hp block with the following cam:

[h=2]Part Number: 32919
Mopar Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft[/h] Chrysler/Dodge/Mopar - 350, 361, 383, 400, 413, 426 & 440B
Performance level 4 - Hot Street Beast - Explosive performance gains on top end power. Economical price.
INT/EXH - Dur @ .050” Lift: 242°/252° RR: 1.5/1.5 Gross Lift: .521”/.551” LSA: 109° RPM: 2200 to 5000 Redline: 5500


I have a 727 with manual valve body, what would be good size stall for street use and occasional red light run?

I believe the stall I have now is in the 3400 range and it seems sluggish without any pull

Thanks

What rear gear do you have?
I like the 32244 better.

 

[HT413]

you need to call a respected converter mfgr and ask them their opinion.

- - - Updated - - -

I've run a very loose 4500ish converter on the street and the car was a slug. I used to have to get it over 3000 rpm to ease the car onto some ramps. You know that lip at the entrance of your garage? I once got caught on that and had to bring the motor over 4000 rpm to get it into the garage lol. Old school loose race converter." That would probably flash to over 5000 of my motor made more power. I then went with a basically stock stall B&M converter just because it was a great deal at the right time, and it's a bitch to keep the car stopped at a stoplight.

Point is, talk to an expert because we all have different expectations and will all give differing opinions.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Hello Everyone...

I have a 440hp block with the following cam:

Part Number: 32919
Mopar Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft

Chrysler/Dodge/Mopar - 350, 361, 383, 400, 413, 426 & 440B
Performance level 4 - Hot Street Beast - Explosive performance gains on top end power. Economical price.
INT/EXH - Dur @ .050” Lift: 242°/252° RR: 1.5/1.5 Gross Lift: .521”/.551” LSA: 109° RPM: 2200 to 5000 Redline: 5500


I have a 727 with manual valve body, what would be good size stall for street use and occasional red light run?

I believe the stall I have now is in the 3400 range and it seems sluggish without any pull

Thanks

You did not say but you do realize you will have to manually shift the trans to get it into fisrt with a manual valve body?

 

[383man]

You did not say but you do realize you will have to manually shift the trans to get it into fisrt with a manual valve body?

Good point and also make sure if it is a reverse or forward pattern manual V/B as I have been down that road when my buddy asked me to drive his car.

But today they make good converters that will drive nice and work good at the track. Myself I use a Luppo Dynamic 9.5" street/strip converter and it works great. It drives normal with no slippage at lower rpm and it will flash to about 4200 at the track and launches my car nicely. Ron

 

[Longroof]

How do you check stall speed (unless you have a trans brake)?

With a manual valve body firmly hold your foot on the brakes put the car in high gear and then floor it for an instant while closely watching the tachometer. You can't do it in first gear because the engine will usually overpower the brakes before you get to the max stall.

 

[oc192]

yes, its a reverse manual valve body and I start in first and shift to 2nd, 3rd. The mechanic who has done work on the car for me said he believes its a 3400ish stall, probably did the test Longroof just described. Regarding the gear ratio, I just ran it down the street and in 3rd gear, I go 60mph at 3000 rpms with 29 inch tires. Based on different online calculators, that is around a 4:30 gear.

if I cruise in 2nd gear going 35 or so and hit it, it makes more noise then anything, I dont really feel any pull in my seat. I talked to a guy at the local car show and he said a lower stall, around 2800, should waken things up.

 

[HT413]

if I cruise in 2nd gear going 35 or so and hit it, it makes more noise then anything, I dont really feel any pull in my seat.

Haha, I know the feeling. First summer I had my car, I'm cruising in the slow lane doing like 65mph rpm in the low 2000's (back when I had 3.23's). some fancy race bike pulls up next to me and wants to go. Of coursing I can't hold a candle to him, but I nail it anyway just for fun.... and go nowhere. Engine flashes north of 4500 or so and the bike is GONE. Now, I have a VERY low compression 413 (7:1), single plane intake, just a piss poor combination. Now with a dual plane, tighter converter (though too tight), 4.10's, the car really scoots despite that terrible compression.

 

[dvw]

If you place the trans in 3rd and floor it,that will show flash stall. But this method can be very hard on the converter. Better to just watch the tach and see where the rpm falls after the shift. Easier to see on the 2-3 as the rpm recovers slower. The fall back is actually the true stall. It will be aprox 200 over the flash stall in the 1st test.
Doug

 

[oc192]

ok, a few days ago I lifted the rear wheels off of the ground and counted the driveshaft turns per wheel turn. It appears the actual gears in the car are 3.91s. With this in mind, when I ran the car on the street and calculated the gearing with speed, rpm, and tire size, it came out to 4.33s. If the actual gears are 3.91s and the car performs like I have 4.33s, does this mean the convertor is slipping and not fully engaging?

 

[HT413]

Well, that would be just over 10% slippage, more than double what you should see. First, I'd ask how accurate your speedometer is. Download a free gps based speedo for your phone and recheck. While you're at it, have you accounted for tire sag or did you just go off of the mfgr's diameter? Measure from ground to axle center, this is the effective radius and will give you more accurate results.

 

[oc192]

My speedo doesn't work so that is from a gps app on my phone. I used the general tire specs for a 255/75/15 tire but I did go out and measure from the ground to center axle and its about 14 inches so that makes it around 4.17 ratio which is a little closer.

- - - Updated - - -

another thing to note, the slower the rpm I was going, the farther off the calculation was.

for example:

3000 rpm, 60 mph, 28 inch tire (measuring from ground to center axle) = 4.17
2000 rpm , 38 mph, 28 inch tire = 4.39

Is that normal expected behavior for a torque converter?

 

[383man]

I can tell you with my 9.5 Dynamic converter when I do about 60 mph I turn right about 3000 rpm and I use 4.30's with a 30" tall tire. As for hitting the gas and making a bunch of noise I know when I am doing 40 or faster I dont donwshift it anyway as with my 493 and gearing it takes off like a rocket without downshifting at all. And it dont make alot of noise since I run a full exh system. This Dynamic converter works great in my car at all speeds. Ron

 

[Jeff_383]

255/75-15's are taller than 29". 255/70-15's are 29" tall.