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which cam and torque converter for a mostly stock 383.....

bigblockpolara

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Hey guys, I have a question....I am rebuilding my 72 RR. It has a 1967 383 engine that has been bored 40 over with stock compression. The heads are 3906 stock rebuilt magnum heads. It has a 323 8 3/4 rear end. I want to keep the power disc brake set up in the car. I am running a 727 automatic. The car is apart and now is the perfect time to search for the "right" torque converter and cam for what I am looking for. I am looking for a cam that will give me an aggressive "lumpy" sound at idle while still being able to utilize my power brakes and with no further mods to the heads or pistons. I can use a vacuum canister if necessay. It will have headers with flow masters. The car will NEVER see the track, so I am really leaning toward street performance with reliability. It will have a dual plane intake and edlebrock carb.I have not purchased a torque converter yet either. Which stall should I use? As I don't have much money to change things...any experience with what I need would be greatly appreciated!!!
 
You want a car that sounds mean but has the bite of a kitten? Just go with the stock type Road Runner cam and factory converter that came in them. It'll have decent go and will sound good too.
 
I used an Isky 270 Mega Cam in 383 RR for a little while. That series of cams have 108 degree LSA vs 115 LSA for the factory cam, so it had more overlap and was more choppy than the factory cam. I think it was a little too much cam for what I want to do, but sometimes I am tempted to put it back in there just out of curiosity, or try a 264 or 262 Isky.

Comp says their 268H High Energy is good 383HP replacement cam. It has a 110 LSA and also a little more overlap than factory cam. I think those are kind of aggressive will make some valvetrain noise, though.

What I use now is the factory RR cam. It had a little skip to it until I advanced it 4 at the crank. Now it's pretty smooth when it's warmed up. I am also sometimes tempted to replace it with something even smaller to concentrate that car's power down low where I drive it. I would try a lot of stuff if it wasn't such a PITA to change cams.
 
And I'm talking about the stock cams that came out in 68-69.......and those could run a high 14 with some tuning with the stock parts that came on them and could easily do it with an intake change and headers and a bit more gear. Of course, back then high 14's was respectable. Heck, my 71 all stock 340 automatic Cuda with only headers and a gear ran a 14.0 on street tires with the stock air cleaner on it and everyone knows how restrictive those damn things were and the engine didn't have any lope to speak of.....
 
you want a car that sounds mean but has the bite of a kitten? Just go with the stock type road runner cam and factory converter that came in them. It'll have decent go and will sound good too.
lmfao...lol..lol.
 
I was comparing the 68-69 383 option since it received a slight hp increase for the 69 model year. Based on what I had read, Mopar had used the heads, cam, and intake from the 68 440 GTX motor to achieve the hp increase. Another options is they do make a 6 pack intake that fits the 383 motor, if you wanted to get creative that might be another ave to research.
 
With the 3.23 gear I'd run a cam with a 112 lobe separation and the MoPar .455" / 272 is a good choice. It's just a little above the Road Runner cam and won't hurt the idle or power brakes. I'm running one in a 440 and love it. Or you can go with the RR cam like Cranky suggests. The 108 LSA cam will make a lot more power but you will suffer in other ways so don't do it.

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A converter with a stall that is about 1000 RPM over stock will be perfect. A 10" or 11" TCI street fighter or similar should work well.
 
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