Who's running a 5.9 magnum in a b body?

[Sam69sat]

On my lower budget 66 Coronet i'm thinking of going 5.9 magnum (360) with an a833 4 speed. Anyone else running a 5.9 in a b body? What do you think of it? Planning on going with a carburetor setup.

 

[dvw]

I did one about a year ago for a customer. 68 Satelite convertible. 3.23, low gear set 904, Eddy heads, .500" cam, performer intake, 600 Eddy carb, 8.8-1. It was way quicker than I thought it would be.
Doug

 

[rumblefish360]

In my ‘79 Magnum, I run a 2000 - 5.9, 727, 9–1/4-3.55 geared rear and on 245/60/15’s. The following modifications have been performed from top to bottom, fore and aft;

‘72 trap door air cleaner
Edelbrock 750 (Lokar cables activate everything)
Edelbrock RPM AG
Chrome box ignition, MP distributor
MP Viscous 5 blade fan set up
Hooker Super Comp headers @ 1-3/4 into a 2-1/2 exhaust
Dynomax motor mufflers
2500 stall
A B&M flexplate to handle the balancing chores

There is a video out from whom I draw a blank on and the moment, but it’s been out for a while where the did a dyno run with basically the same mods to find a tick over 300hp and a tick over 400ft lbs of torque.

The 3.55’s prevent any great mileage on the Hwy but are not an issue for the Hwy. They are excellent around town. Even more so here in Florida where most roads are 45 mph for the speed limit, 55mph is just fine as well.

The 5.9 will fry the tires for an easy 40-50 feet with little effort. It will provide a mild push back in the seat and has WOW’d every last person that has sat in the passenger seat.

I’ll tell you the power band falls off at 4500 and by 5K, you’re done.
The 5.9 even with the above additions that have not raised the RPM ceiling significantly but maybe slightly added a noticeable power increase. I can tell you with great confidence that this engines limitations are in the camshaft to start with and then the cylinder head of the upstairs power doesn’t meet the requirements.

The 9.0-1 compression ratio and OEM camshaft will require a 89 octane if you mess with the ignition and timing to maximize the power output. If you dumb down the timing to run 87 octane, you’re throwing a significant amount of power out the window. With the price difference between 89 & 93, I often run 93 for best results which are a small and narrow margin over the 89, but noticeable on a small scale. Yep! It’s worth it to me.

IF! You would want more power, look to a camshaft first and contact Hugesengines for their trick spring package that allows, IIRC, .540/.550 lift which is in or past the as cast cylinder heads sweet spot.

I would very seriously consider the Edelbrock intake over the chink knock off.

I have a video scheduled on this with flow charts and port speeds on the as cast head vs the (unobtainium) Magnum R/T 2.02 head.
An Edelbrock head is a better route with better cooling abilities. You’ll have to check the Edelbrock website or the Hughesengines website for the Edelbrock heads flow rates.

Now you got the low down.

 

[rumblefish360]

View the videos below for an idea and maybe some ideas on your potential Magnum swap project.

I’ll just say this again, with the mods I did above, the power return was nice. It is an excellent cruiser. An overdrive would be great. If you have taken a ride in a Durango before with a 5.9, think about what a near 1,500 a 2,000 pound weight drop will do for performance.

I pirated the current 5.9 from my Daughters wrecked 2 door Durango. My next move after a camshaft and cylinder head swap is an overdrive transmission. I’m planning on a A-833 OD from a truck. The idea of this is the lower first gear take off improvement and the OD ratio (IIRC, .71) for that Hwy/Interstate cruising abilities.

ENJOY!



https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pF_cnJ1kBfc&pp=ygUTNS45IE1hZ251bSBkeW5vIHJ1bg%3D%3D

 

[Runcharger]

They run better than you would think for a mild streeter. Easy to install too compared to gen3.

 

[Ron_M]

I have the MP 360/380 Magnum crate in my 74 Road Runner in front of the A-833 with the proper Magnum balanced flywheel. I'm running the MP single plane intake that came with it topped with an Edelbrock Performer 750 and use the Magnum truck manifolds, true dual exhaust. It works pretty well for a street car, definitely more powerful than my 340 powered 73 Satellite Sebring Plus but less torquey than my 440 RR/GTX.

I'm very happy with it's performance for what it is. My 2014 Hemi Ram most likely would eat it's lunch but regardless, it's a fun ride/stress reliever to go for a backroads blast. I would recommend a similar combination.

 

[JoePole]

I went from LA360 to Magnum 360 in a 72 Satty. Mine is .030 over with stock replacement pistons, EQ small valve heads with .028 head gasket and a reground cam (218/224, 270/277, 525) from Oregon. I'm at around 9.3:1 CR. Hughes 1110 springs and fuel pump eccentric. Intake is Air gap knockoff and 650 AVS2. I am using Flowtech headers.
Runs really good but I am still dialing in the carb and timing. There's more to be had. If you are on a budget just get a low mileage 360 Magnum. Most of the time they will still
show cross hatching. The big question is heads but Speedmaster black friday sale is coming up. You can get a cheap set of Aluminum heads and intake for like $1000.

 

[rumblefish360]

I have the MP 360/380 Magnum crate in my 74 Road Runner in front of the A-833 with the proper Magnum balanced flywheel. I'm running the MP single plane intake that came with it topped with an Edelbrock Performer 750 and use the Magnum truck manifolds, true dual exhaust. It works pretty well for a street car, definitely more powerful than my 340 powered 73 Satellite Sebring Plus but less torquey than my 440 RR/GTX.

I'm very happy with it's performance for what it is. My 2014 Hemi Ram most likely would eat it's lunch but regardless, it's a fun ride/stress reliever to go for a backroads blast. I would recommend a similar combination.

That’s a hell of a way to cut out 25 HP!
Why would you do that? Exhaust manifolds.
FWIW, that engine performs better with a RPM up top than the single plane in the street.

I went from LA360 to Magnum 360 in a 72 Satty. Mine is .030 over with stock replacement pistons, EQ small valve heads with .028 head gasket and a reground cam (218/224, 270/277, 525) from Oregon. I'm at around 9.3:1 CR. Hughes 1110 springs and fuel pump eccentric. Intake is Air gap knockoff and 650 AVS2. I am using Flowtech headers.
Runs really good but I am still dialing in the carb and timing. There's more to be had. If you are on a budget just get a low mileage 360 Magnum. Most of the time they will still
show cross hatching. The big question is heads but Speedmaster black friday sale is coming up. You can get a cheap set of Aluminum heads and intake for like $1000.

The problem with the Speedmaster heads is they’re out of the box condition that will require a decent amount of work more over the Edelbrock head. However, there is a lot to like about the speedmaster head besides the price. When porting them, they work out better than the Edelbrock head does. In the end, when ported, they’re about equal in cost unless your porting them.
I would not choose Speedmaster heads over Edelbrock heads (or intake for that matter) as a OOTB item to use.

The worst I ever had to do to MY Edelbrock heads was a quick valve lapping.

 

[rumblefish360]

For what it’s worth…. A pipe dream for my Magnum. I happen to have Magnum R/T heads as well, so… IDK how well they could be ported out or if there even close to what’s used in part two below, but I just love that torque line!

 

[Ron_M]

"That’s a hell of a way to cut out 25 HP!
Why would you do that? Exhaust manifolds.
FWIW, that engine performs better with a RPM up top than the single plane in the street."

You are totally correct and those are great observations. I wanted this setup for several reasons:
1) I had limited shop time to R&R the LA to Magnum crate. The manifold s were bolt on and limited exhaust reworking was needed to get me going
2) I hate finagling headers. I hate having to replace every couple of years. For what I do, street driving and cruising, I don't need them.
3) the manifold s were cheap especially since I worked at the dealership. They are the early large port ones.
4). Mopar Performance tech line told me then what you just said about the 25 hp loss. They advised against it too. May have been Zippy? Lol.
5) there were no aftermarket magnum intake manifold then. the MP magnum dual plane was available, but I spent 5K on a crate engine plus the manifolds plus the mechanic s time that helped, it all adds up.
6). Dual plane is better yes but this is a manual car so while not ideal, it works. Yes it lags on take off unless you really wind it up.(I don't). It's a heavy car to get in motion.
7). I do have the Eddy Magnum RPM NIB I can install when ever I want. I can also go Holley.
8). I bought a 440 machine not long afterwards the BB difference is night day over a SB.
9). I was young, we didn't have the internet of today I just did what I could do.

.

 

[Sam69sat]

Sounds like some nice builds on this thread. I'm gonna try and keep it mostly stock (for now) besides intake, carb, headers, and cam. Just looking for a good little driver. I'd be happy if i could smoke the tires for 30-40 feet.

 

[rumblefish360]

"That’s a hell of a way to cut out 25 HP!
Why would you do that? Exhaust manifolds.
FWIW, that engine performs better with a RPM up top than the single plane in the street."

You are totally correct and those are great observations. I wanted this setup for several reasons:
1) I had limited shop time to R&R the LA to Magnum crate. The manifold s were bolt on and limited exhaust reworking was needed to get me going
2) I hate finagling headers. I hate having to replace every couple of years. For what I do, street driving and cruising, I don't need them.
3) the manifold s were cheap especially since I worked at the dealership. They are the early large port ones.
4). Mopar Performance tech line told me then what you just said about the 25 hp loss. They advised against it too. May have been Zippy? Lol.
5) there were no aftermarket magnum intake manifold then. the MP magnum dual plane was available, but I spent 5K on a crate engine plus the manifolds plus the mechanic s time that helped, it all adds up.
6). Dual plane is better yes but this is a manual car so while not ideal, it works. Yes it lags on take off unless you really wind it up.(I don't). It's a heavy car to get in motion.
7). I do have the Eddy Magnum RPM NIB I can install when ever I want. I can also go Holley.
8). I bought a 440 machine not long afterwards the BB difference is night day over a SB.
9). I was young, we didn't have the internet of today I just did what I could do.

.

Roger that and I totally get it. Carry on! Job well done.
“Days before the internet!” LMAO! We must be around the same age or so. All I could do was ask questions and get 30 different answers to what they did to run low 12’s. Then I discovered the MP books! I still to this day fool around with combos without care or concern what has been done or who did what on the net.

Stand by for dyno testing! Warning! Some tests maybe stupid ****. But I wanna do it anyway.

Sounds like some nice builds on this thread. I'm gonna try and keep it mostly stock (for now) besides intake, carb, headers, and cam. Just looking for a good little driver. I'd be happy if i could smoke the tires for 30-40 feet.

You’ll get that for sure. Again a recommend the RPM & the Hooker Super Comps @ 1-3/4 or a set of TTI headers. I have the Hookers on the car longer than I ever heard of TTI. The only thing I do t like about the TTI headers is their collector. Otherwise there a hair better than the Hookers IMO.

Oh! FWIW, the Hooker SC fit without tube bashing on an automatic trans, you’ll need to dent a passenger tune for a manual trans and a scatter shield like the Lakewood I was running. I’m not sure….. but I don’t think it’s an issue with a stock bell housing. *I THINK* & im pretty sure, just not 100% that they will clear a stock bell housing.

What does your car weigh in at? P/B?

 

[Ron_M]

I'm 53. I responded my build so the OP can determine the best route for him. Rumbles recommendations are spot on IMHO. In my case the carb/manifolds are easily changed to uncorked the 360. I personally do not care for headers, not denying they're optimal, hell my 440 car had Hooker super comps and an h pipe the sound of power was beautiful!
As the mechanic who led the R&R (RIP Tony!) Told me "You'll always be building your machine, it's what we all do". He was right.

 

[Sam69sat]

Roger that and I totally get it. Carry on! Job well done.
“Days before the internet!” LMAO! We must be around the same age or so. All I could do was ask questions and get 30 different answers to what they did to run low 12’s. Then I discovered the MP books! I still to this day fool around with combos without care or concern what has been done or who did what on the net.

Stand by for dyno testing! Warning! Some tests maybe stupid ****. But I wanna do it anyway.

You’ll get that for sure. Again a recommend the RPM & the Hooker Super Comps @ 1-3/4 or a set of TTI headers. I have the Hookers on the car longer than I ever heard of TTI. The only thing I do t like about the TTI headers is their collector. Otherwise there a hair better than the Hookers IMO.

Oh! FWIW, the Hooker SC fit without tube bashing on an automatic trans, you’ll need to dent a passenger tune for a manual trans and a scatter shield like the Lakewood I was running. I’m not sure….. but I don’t think it’s an issue with a stock bell housing. *I THINK* & im pretty sure, just not 100% that they will clear a stock bell housing.

What does your car weigh in at? P/B?

Not sure what mine weighs. I'm slowly working on it but i'm a long long ways off from having it anywhere near a road. Still doing metal work. I just like to keep an eye out for deals when they come up and i've been thinking about a 5.9 magnum for a while. I already have a small block lakewood scattershield, some old small block b body headers, a833, etc. The car was originally an automatic but i decided early on it's gonna be a 4 speed. From the sounds of things, a 5.9 magnum is just what i need.

 

[rumblefish360]

OK. What rear gears are in there now… or actually, what will be there later if there is a change.

What is the intended tire size?

With these two and the weight question, a camshaft can be thought about. This maybe the horse before the fart, but food for thought is always a good thing during this time in the build process. If anything, re watch the videos and you can copy what Richard has posted. IIRC, that 212@050 cam, though on an ultra crappy 114 LSA, due to the fuel injection system…. Produced a good amount of torque. If there is a higher torque producer, go with that and believe me! You’ll not regret it at all.

I’ll be sliding in a Howard’s Hyd. FT cam into a 5.9. Mostly since I had everything but the cam, the HFT is a lot cheaper than a roller. It’s a 220@050 w/.506 lift, magnify it with the 1.6 rockers, it’s .539 lift and the LSA is 108.

On also have a 5.9 in a ‘74 Duster backed by a 3600 stall converter & a 727 as well. The rear is to be changed out since it has the 8-1/4 w/2.45 gears.

Still in the same boat of having lots of HFT lifters and such hanging around, so I used a NOS Crane cam @ 236@050, .497 lift on a 108 LSA. Total lift will be .530 with the 1.6 rocker.

These should make for a nice street machine and a mild bracket racer with a lot of low end torque.

@Ron_M Thanks bud.