Whos the best?

[Lowhound]

I was wanting everyones opinion on which way I should go when purchasing my wiring harnesses? Factory original style or something like a Painless Kit or something similar? I plan on using aftermarket gauges thruoghout the instrument panel & I wouldnt mind eliminating the bulkhead connectors if possible. The harnesses will be going in a 70 superbee & I plan on replacing all throughout the car.

 

[440roadrunner]

The only reason I would use factory style harnesses is if you have a "resto" car that you want to keep "factory." The facts are that many guys are having wiring problems, and many of them trace back to the poorly designed bulkhead connector, the full current ammeter, and on earlier cars, the "too light" ignition switch. Headlight wiring is marginal as well

These problems REALLY start to show up when you start to run fuel pumps, big stereos, fans, heavier modern headlights, and big alternators.

I don't necessarily recommend Painless which treats us Mopar guys more as an afterthought. They are pretty expensive, seems to me.

There are several people selling a more "universal" harness, and so long as your connector bodies are in good shape, and you can chase down replacement connector terminals, you can rewire it a LOT cheaper than Painless.

Some of the guys over at FABO seem to like I think it's "American Autowire."

 

[RustyRatRod]

Ron Francis does some really nice harness work. What I like about their harnesses is they leave the firewall connector OUT of the equation. I'd say that will leave out maybe 90% of the electrical trouble Mopars usually have. I have a friend who lives about 40 miles away in Byron, Georgia who put a Ron Francis harness in his Duster, and was pretty impressed. It's nice.

Just recently, I also found this seller on fleabay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230844784227?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Great feedback, and his harness come with the firewall connector, BUT, the wires are all one piece and LONG, so you have the option to leave the connector out there too. I will probably get one of those for my rat rod project.

Here's EZ Wiring's parent site: http://ezwiring.com/

 

[super-bee_ski]

Factory original
(Super-bee_ski, 70 Bee)

 

[RustyRatRod]

Factory original
(Super-bee_ski, 70 Bee)

You gotta be runnin a fever.

 

[super-bee_ski]

You gotta be runnin a fever.

The fever was years ago...
It developed into brain swelling.
Then insanity...
"I now enjoy every minute of it"
LOL
Yup, your most likeley correct.
I personally would "re-do" my harness If I needed to fix it.
I've done others before.
Again, depends on how bad his is..

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well.....if it's a nut and bolt resto, sure, then a factory reproduction all the way. No way no how would I do that to anything but a resto. There's just been light years advancements made.

 

[moparmarks]

The only reason I would use factory style harnesses is if you have a "resto" car that you want to keep "factory." The facts are that many guys are having wiring problems, and many of them trace back to the poorly designed bulkhead connector, the full current ammeter, and on earlier cars, the "too light" ignition switch. Headlight wiring is marginal as well

These problems REALLY start to show up when you start to run fuel pumps, big stereos, fans, heavier modern headlights, and big alternators.

I don't necessarily recommend Painless which treats us Mopar guys more as an afterthought. They are pretty expensive, seems to me.

There are several people selling a more "universal" harness, and so long as your connector bodies are in good shape, and you can chase down replacement connector terminals, you can rewire it a LOT cheaper than Painless.

Some of the guys over at FABO seem to like I think it's "American Autowire."

I was not impressed with the Painless kits for Mopar.
I would see what American Autowire makes for Mopars. I did a complete body re-wire on a 57 Chevy with one of their kits and was real happy with it. Had connections for both factory and aftermarket gauges. Had all the factory style connectors and sockets which Painless doesn't have. Had the extra circuits for fans, amps and all that happy ****. The complete Chevy kit was around 450.00

 

[RustyRatRod]

Remember though, a LOT of what makes a good wiring harness is how it's assembled by it's end user and how said user installs it. Lots of dipshits out there can screw up an anvil. Read the deestrukshuns over and over, take your time and go slowly and do a complete job. I've seen people take a 700 dollar wiring harness and put it together with electrical tape. It's mind boggling.

 

[440roadrunner]

..............I've seen people take a 700 dollar wiring harness and put it together with electrical tape........................

Only thing worse are Skotchloks

 

[RustyRatRod]

Oh God, I hate those things. ...and you know factories include them in add ons such as cruise control and the like? I never used them. I always did a correct heat shrink and sealed splice. My sheeot looked factory when I was done.

Only thing worse are Skotchloks

 

[Ron 73]

There has been so many improvements been made, i think i would have to go with them, a "original" purist resto i guess is something different but when i think of how much some pay for these cars, i would think they would want the safer and brighter, ect.. MHO...

 

[moparmarks]

Remember though, a LOT of what makes a good wiring harness is how it's assembled by it's end user and how said user installs it. Lots of dipshits out there can screw up an anvil. Read the deestrukshuns over and over, take your time and go slowly and do a complete job. I've seen people take a 700 dollar wiring harness and put it together with electrical tape. It's mind boggling.

Oh I agree. Being a retired master electrician I've seen alot hack jobs.

 

[moparmarks]

Oh God, I hate those things. ...and you know factories include them in add ons such as cruise control and the like? I never used them. I always did a correct heat shrink and sealed splice. My sheeot looked factory when I was done.

I can't believe that UL approved those taps. Total junk.

 

[snakeoil24]

EZ wire harness is the cheapest price and nicest quality for the money.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I can't believe that UL approved those taps. Total junk.

That shows you how far down the tubes UL has gone.

 

[moparmarks]

Just checked out American's site and looks like they just make the E-body kit.
http://americanautowire.com/7074Cuda.html
Too bad. Looks like I'll be making a custom dash and motor harness for my 71 Dart.

 

[RCAddict]

I use the harnesses that Year One sells (the ony thing that I buy from them)
The company they use makes a direct fit with new correct plugs for every thing
I order mine with electronic ignition already wired in & do my own amp guage bypass.
Electric fans & pumps stereos etc get their own add on harnesses with relays & add on fuse block
When you run the alternator back to the starter relay the bulkhead connector problem vanishes

 

[moparmarks]

I use the harnesses that Year One sells (the ony thing that I buy from them)
The company they use makes a direct fit with new correct plugs for every thing
I order mine with electronic ignition already wired in & do my own amp guage bypass.
Electric fans & pumps stereos etc get their own add on harnesses with relays & add on fuse block
When you run the alternator back to the starter relay the bulkhead connector problem vanishes

Year 1 sells MH wiring. If you want the best factory replacement harness they be the one. Pricy but very nice.

 

[RCAddict]

May as well pay it all first instead of paying later when the smoke has cleared.
Not many make harnesses that actually fit our Mopars
I've been using YO harnesses since the 90's & when you connect the plugs the wire holders are where the metal hangers are under the dash
Not really that much more expensive than the others when you figure in all the butt splicing & using the original plugs that you have to do with the others
Who wants to put a wirng harness designed after a GM truck harness in their Mopar?