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Wife gave the go on the 440 build. Need some good advice

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spcedwards214

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Wanting to build a streetable 500hp plus 440 for my 66 charger. Got the block and ready for a machine shop to do their thing. The question is what should I have done to build a bad motor on a budget. Around 5 k. I'm guessing it will have to be punched .30 over and what not but as far as compression ratio and the top end i'm wanting to run, I need any advice I can get. I figure for the dollar the Edelbrock Total power package e2087 is a good start. 84cc alum. heads and what not. I know i'll need forged pistons but flat top pistons? Zero deck machined block? Whats a good combination for the top end set up? Thanks in advance.
 
Now comes the big question..... What does she want???? I rarely get anything like the go ahead without it costing something.
 
i'm using some Icon 836 pistons and 440 source h-beam rods with edelbrock 84cc heads. went together easy, very pump gas friendly, plus it takes about .75lb per cylinder off the reciprocating parts compared to stock.
 

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spcedwards214 said:
Wanting to build a streetable 500hp plus 440 for my 66 charger. Got the block and ready for a machine shop to do their thing. The question is what should I have done to build a bad motor on a budget. Around 5 k. I'm guessing it will have to be punched .30 over and what not but as far as compression ratio and the top end i'm wanting to run, I need any advice I can get. I figure for the dollar the Edelbrock Total power package e2087 is a good start. 84cc alum. heads and what not. I know i'll need forged pistons but flat top pistons? Zero deck machined block? Whats a good combination for the top end set up? Thanks in advance.
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If not focused on total future power potential, ported 440 source heads, rpm intake ported and flowed with head.=bang for buck.
cams are like favorite colors... in the 248-252*@.050 with a true @valve lift of .550-.580 will get you there.

Question would be what kind of manners, trans, gears can you get a long with?
 
Use the flat top pistons, and shoot for a deck height of zero with a .040" gasket, or .017" down with a .020" head gasket. I would go with the zero deck height. Then when using the closed chamber heads you will have a nice anti-ping squish distance of .037 to .040" which is ideal. This will allow a little more compression, and promote combustion chamber turbulence for a faster and more thorough burn.

- - - Updated - - -

At .030 over that will get you a C/R of 10.7 to 1. That should work for you if you have .040 squish, and a cam of at least 240 degrees duration at .050" lift. Use premium fuel of course. Without good squish, don't go over 10 to 1 C/R. I am running 13 to 1 at 5400 feet, 98 octane fuel, and .037 squish, and it works great! Cam has 242 duration on the intake @ .050" lift.
 
Thanks guys, working with machine shop now, ordered keith black pistons h beams etc. Working with him on zero decking and what not. I'm pretty firm on the top end kit. Question now is what headers for the 78 440 BB will fit good in the 66 charger? My main concern is obviously clearing the gear box and firewall. Anyone ever done this and have good results with a particular brand or type? Finding headers I like left and right that fit 66 440 but that doesn't mean theyll working on a 78. Is there any difference between the 66 and 78 440 headers? I'm still very new to this being young and my first build but i'm getting there. Also oil pan wise, going with a 7 q. style moroso pan will this clear the original k member in the car that originally had the 318? I've been getting mixed messages about some of this stuff. Thanks for all the advice in advance.
 
Sounds like a real nice combo. One nice thing about those edelbrock heads is the springs they come with can handle a pretty decent sized cam. So off the bat you save a couple hundred vs 440source heads because you don't have to replace them.

Hey, btw have you sat and really looked at that budget of yours? With a $2400 top end kit, forged pistons, h beams and machining alone you probably are about there.
 
i just started my 440 build, im using the bare 440 source heads @ 900$, Hughes engines has full CNC porting right now for 550$, sent them off Monday.

*12-8-14* i need to clarify that the 550$ for Hughes engines CNC porting is *per head* i had them send me and invoice today, and i was a bit pissed when i noticed this, i went back to the web page to see if it clarified this, and to me it was VERY vague...almost sinister!

my heads were bare, and im finishing the valve job locally. so it was 426$ head, if it were ANY other number i would have scuttled the whole job...lol

SI valves for 195$

Comp cam, and 10* retainers.

im at aprox the same price as RPM Edelbrocks....i think this a the best bang for the buck right now.

Probe industries 10 to 1 forged .40 over pistons through Summit racing at 520$

just throwing it out there.
 
Last edited:
HT413 said:
Sounds like a real nice combo. One nice thing about those edelbrock heads is the springs they come with can handle a pretty decent sized cam. So off the bat you save a couple hundred vs 440source heads because you don't have to replace them.

Hey, btw have you sat and really looked at that budget of yours? With a $2400 top end kit, forged pistons, h beams and machining alone you probably are about there.
Click to expand...

ma mopar nutz said:
:3gears: IM THINKING THE SAME THING !!
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spcedwards214: I think your going to need to have a little sit down talk with the Mrs...
 
HAHAHA. Ya I'm at 1700 on the short block, 2000 on the top end and about 500 in odds and ends. I'm doing alright. Doesn't have to be dead on the mark. The Christmas bonus I got today should help lol. Still have to save for the rebuilt trans, stall converter, and custom drive shaft along with motor mounts and trans mount but I think we'll get there soon lol. Thanks for the help. Seems like we all have about the same ideas. Just need some assurance. Thanks.
 
Canyon707 said:
Now comes the big question..... What does she want???? I rarely get anything like the go ahead without it costing something.
Click to expand...

Might I suggest laundering your money in the future. My dad has a "shoe" in his closet. You can have one too.

I watched my dad do it, and I took note and learned. I have a shoe. It helps to have a general amount of car clutter in your garage/shop, i.e motors in various states of build/tear-down and at least 3 or more cars. When you sell something for cash (parts or cars, etc.), never deposit in the bank: put it in the shoe. Keep a small but steady stream of cash flowing from your bank account, and always place a certain % of the stream directly in the shoe. "Honey, can we get $150 cash from the bank so we can get something for the grand kids? "Absolutely!" Take $20-30 and put it in the shoe.

Having car buddies around is very helpful, as in "Dear, is that new? I don't recognize it." "No honey, not new, it's second hand. Besides it's not mine, it's Travis's, he just wanted me to check it out." "Oh".

Argument avoided.

Using the power of time, the shoe eventually becomes very useful and capable of picking up bigger ticket stuff like cars/machine shop work/trade, etc.

Just a friendly tip from your local gear head. :)
 
GrabberOrange69 said:
Might I suggest laundering your money in the future. My dad has a "shoe" in his closet. You can have one too.

I watched my dad do it, and I took note and learned. I have a shoe. It helps to have a general amount of car clutter in your garage/shop, i.e motors in various states of build/tear-down and at least 3 or more cars. When you sell something for cash (parts or cars, etc.), never deposit in the bank: put it in the shoe. Keep a small but steady stream of cash flowing from your bank account, and always place a certain % of the stream directly in the shoe. "Honey, can we get $150 cash from the bank so we can get something for the grand kids? "Absolutely!" Take $20-30 and put it in the shoe.

Having car buddies around is very helpful, as in "Dear, is that new? I don't recognize it." "No honey, not new, it's second hand. Besides it's not mine, it's Travis's, he just wanted me to check it out." "Oh".

Argument avoided.

Using the power of time, the shoe eventually becomes very useful and capable of picking up bigger ticket stuff like cars/machine shop work/trade, etc.

Just a friendly tip from your local gear head. :)
Click to expand...

Sage wisdom, grabber. Your dad is a wise man that no doubt has helped many people with such wisdom. I too shall carry his legacy of the shoe henceforth.
 
That is the best thing thus far. I have attempted it but shes slowly getting into working on stuff with me and doesn't mind my obsession with the car anymore. She knows i'll have 20k in the thing before its over. lol When I threw my hands in the air on the 318 that was never finished by the guy before me and said that's it im building the motor at the shop she said go for it. So that's what i'm doing lol. Question though, as stated previously having never built a 440 before but going all in on it. I never got a flywheel with the motor so I need to purchase one. What size or type should I be looking for. It will be a 4 speed auto (727 i believe is what came with it) (any way to verify that)? Thanks again
 
Thanks HT, The trans was given to me with the 440 that's being built now. It wasn't attached to the engine so I'm not even sure if its suppose to go with it or not. May have trans shop tell me what I got with this thing. I'm going to use the info you gave and see what I come up with.
 
Sure enough, have the same trans. 727 3 speed. Guess we'll have to save our pennies for a gear venders over underdrive. Sounds fun. whats a good stall converter for a street strip car. More street than strip. 3000 or less?
 
spcedwards214 said:
Sure enough, have the same trans. 727 3 speed. Guess we'll have to save our pennies for a gear venders over underdrive. Sounds fun. whats a good stall converter for a street strip car. More street than strip. 3000 or less?
Click to expand...

I'm no converter guru, but it is best to match the converter to the cam and gear you intend to go with. I'd say 3000ish stall is good for the street, as that's about what I'm shooting for, but a lot of guys will say a quality 4000 stall converter is also very streetable.
 
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