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Winter storage/ gas ?

Aarons Air

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After some setbacks i finally got my engine running this summer. As soon as it ran, and the power steering pressurised, i found my steering gear leaked. So now my car is sitting with half a tank of gas, and gas in the lines and carb. It may be a while before i have it running again. I'm concerned about the gas. I know i could add a stabilizer to the tank, but what about what's in the line & carb ? Without the engine running, the stabilizer wouldn't effect the gas in the line or carb, would it ? Should i try to drain them, or is this even a concern ?
 
Add stabilizer remove belt and heat the motor up to flush gas
or remove line from carb and crank motor to flush
 
Fill tank completely to reduce condensation. Use E0 gas if possible.
I wish autos had tank drains like airplanes.
 
I was told from a reputable carb guy, if the car is going to be parked for a long time. Make sure the carburetor is empty of gas. Or start it at least 2 times a month. Old gas will gum up in the tank, fuel lines and carburetor. I just went thru this myself.
 
I was told from a reputable carb guy, if the car is going to be parked for a long time. Make sure the carburetor is empty of gas. Or start it at least 2 times a month. Old gas will gum up in the tank, fuel lines and carburetor. I just went thru this myself.


I have been wondering if I was to put a fuel cut off in the line at the tank, would running the mechanical fuel pump "dry" till all the fuel in the carb was run out, would that damage the fuel pump. Who knows?
 
I have been wondering if I was to put a fuel cut off in the line at the tank, would running the mechanical fuel pump "dry" till all the fuel in the carb was run out, would that damage the fuel pump. Who knows?
If you had a electric fuel pump you turn the pump off and run the car until the carburetor is dry.
 
If the car is stored inside, with a modicum of heat I'd say you should be fine. Obviously having a good fuel stabilizer in the fuel would be ideal, I use Marine Sta-Bal in everything I have the runs gasoline. Just fired the wagon up after 6 months of sitting...no issues.

Or add some stabilizer to the tank...add the appropriate amount of stabilizer to a gallon of fuel then add that to the tank, to help with the dispersal of the additive. Then disconnect the belt to the power steering pump and fire the motor up for a few minutes to get the stabilized fuel into the carb.
 
I have been wondering if I was to put a fuel cut off in the line at the tank, would running the mechanical fuel pump "dry" till all the fuel in the carb was run out, would that damage the fuel pump. Who knows?
I'm not sure that would work, without a vent,
If the car is stored inside, with a modicum of heat I'd say you should be fine. Obviously having a good fuel stabilizer in the fuel would be ideal, I use Marine Sta-Bal in everything I have the runs gasoline. Just fired the wagon up after 6 months of sitting...no issues.

Or add some stabilizer to the tank...add the appropriate amount of stabilizer to a gallon of fuel then add that to the tank, to help with the dispersal of the additive. Then disconnect the belt to the power steering pump and fire the motor up for a few minutes to get the stabilized fuel into the carb.
When i discovered the steering gear leaking, i started digging it out. Header, plugs, steering column, batrery & tray, etc are all out.
 
40 years now that I've drove the car into the garage and shut it off for storage. Bee Started on the second crank, after 14 years in a marine container, albeit on fresh fuel from a kicker can. Bird starts at the turn of a key.. year after year.. even after sitting and sitting. Carb has never been off the car in my 30 year ownership...
 
I put in E-free gas most of the time - it's a 30 mile nice backroad cruise to the nearest station that sells it. Just filled the tank for storage this past week. Some as posted rec stabilizer and have done that including my lawn equipment or use seafoam additives. Before my rebuild used to use some marvel oil in tank and engine. I store my car in heated garage at home and will run it every few weeks or so putting trans in gear just to get fluids moving. Never been a problem for me doing this.
 
A little off topic from the original OP, but for mine, this is what has worked for me. Full tank of non-ethanol premium, Stabil, and fog the carbs with some ATF and that's a wrap for the long winter sleep. They fire up like I just shut them off 6 months later. I didn't start the Poly in the Belvedere for over 2 years until this summer and it also fired up immediately when I woke it back up. I think these cars are more forgiving than we sometimes think.
 
I use to do that back in the '80's. Pour tranny fluid down the carb until the tail pipes started to smoke and then dump quicker to smother it out! Smoked like a bitch for the first few runs around town in the Spring!
 
40 years now that I've drove the car into the garage and shut it off for storage. Bee Started on the second crank, after 14 years in a marine container, albeit on fresh fuel from a kicker can. Bird starts at the turn of a key.. year after year.. even after sitting and sitting. Carb has never been off the car in my 30 year ownership...
Same perspective here. Park'm with about 1/4 tank or less and fire them up in spring usually second crank and we’re alive. Mine are in 35* and above garage and I’m usually still running them until Dec and get them started again in March. No 14 years here I hope. I think today’s fuels are a bit more stable, 6 months sitting is no big deal anymore.
 
I add stabil (if I remember). The fuel in the float bowls will evaporate by spring. I simply prime them via the carb vents and fire it right up.
 
People way over think this,our carb cars are no different than a marine carb engine,fill it with fuel,fog it with ATF or motor oil till it stalls n good nite Irene
 
some stabilizer and mystery oil and run till hot ( take a ride ) PUT HER AWAY
 
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