• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Worthwhile 69 runner project?

///Matt

Well-Known Member
Local time
1:30 AM
Joined
Feb 19, 2015
Messages
430
Reaction score
213
Location
Texas
’69 runner, VitC (k2) code car, E63 motor code (383 4-bbl), auto with AC and some other fun options...

Major project, lots of rust, car isn’t assembled for the most part, motor is out but “original” motor and trans come with it.

But I can get it under 4k.

Should I? I expect I’d end up in it for 15-20k after rust and paint.
 
My biggest part of rust concerns... how easy is it to get replacement metal for these kinds of spot?

85C36B00-AC13-4483-B031-5A552A0DE3D4.jpeg
 
I'd like to see more pictures of the other rust areas, but if the frame is good, I'd jump on it personally. I think that window area rust is relatively common & maybe you can check amd/Sherman/Goodmark for repair panels. To me, having the original engine is a plus & A/C is a very nice option for a cruiser in Texas. Rust on frame...no Bueno.....rust on body, trunk floor, quarter...no biggie. It almost looks like a vinyl roof car, right?
 
I THINK the tag decodes to a white vinyl roof, but ALSO decodes as a “spring special w/o vinyl”.... so I dunno, ha.

If I bought this car, it’d be a couple years worth of project, and ideally an investment, not a hobby/moneysink.

Am i stupid? I have a LOT of suitable spares for it sitting in my driveway/garage, and wouldn’t pay a dime in labor to anyone but a painter or machinist...
 
03C8CF97-9732-43B6-BBB7-BC42617613F4.jpeg
E664A415-A1F4-4A90-8546-ED3F1F8B8925.jpeg
D9009D53-D9FF-49A0-A8C5-873B5ABC462A.jpeg
All of those panels can be replaced. AMD has full 1/4’s the Dutchman panel and roof skin. Just remember there’s a good chance that some of the inner structure will probably need work too. That being said, if you can do the metal work yourself and aren’t afraid of putting in some hours, I’d go for it. Here’s a few before and after shots of my project. No way would I have bought it if I wasn’t doing my own body work though
 
Looks sick Crider!!

I’d for sure be doing my own weld work on things like floors and trunk. Likely would pay a shop to do the roof/quarter parts. I’d do all my own work with everything else (motor, interior, etc.)
 
Well..you can work the metal so that's a big plus. Soul searching time! I don't know you but I believe you know what's involved...and how these 'projects' can come to dominate your time/money etc. (I know, that's part of the fun, right?) I would say it's a good price for what you get if the frame is good, in a day when some cars(chargers!)in worse shape are going for 10K+...
 
I see other “desireable” cars in similar/worse shape for more all the time! I feel like it’s a deal on this one, but my key element is that I need it to be an investment. I gather that 99.8% of money spent on classic cars is for a hobby, not an investment... but I also feel pretty well that I could revive this car for less money into it than the value would be when done.

Famous last words, I know.
 
Help me decode this tag!
I get is 69 Ply B, (not certain its a true runner yet), in k2 orange, spring special, with 383-4 and 727, AC and radio(AM).

Not sure what else it’s got goin, or interior color, or rear gears, or what.

F1B22FF9-7FD0-46A1-AEDF-F1EBE1A64D72.jpeg
 
Help me decode this tag!
I get is 69 Ply B, (not certain its a true runner yet), in k2 orange, spring special, with 383-4 and 727, AC and radio(AM).

Not sure what else it’s got goin, or interior color, or rear gears, or what.

View attachment 677166
I’m not a fender tag expert like some of the guys on here, but it has RM23 there at the bottom left. That should be a road runner hardtop.
 
All I can say is good luck.....

You have to be happy with the car and that is all that matters....
 
I see other “desireable” cars in similar/worse shape for more all the time! I feel like it’s a deal on this one, but my key element is that I need it to be an investment. I gather that 99.8% of money spent on classic cars is for a hobby, not an investment... but I also feel pretty well that I could revive this car for less money into it than the value would be when done.

Famous last words, I know.
If you want a project, go for it. As an investment, I'm pretty sure you will have more (probably much more) in it that it is worth. From your description and picture, I'm assuming it needs quarters, roof skin, Dutchman panel, floor pan and trunk pan. Good chance it also needs outer wheelhouses and trunk drop-offs and who knows what else. This would amount to several thousand in new sheetmetal costs. You mentioned you would probably have a body shop install the quarters and roof. I'm guessing you would also have them doing the filler work, priming and blocking and paint. There's several thousand more.
 
If you want a project, go for it. As an investment, I'm pretty sure you will have more (probably much more) in it that it is worth. From your description and picture, I'm assuming it needs quarters, roof skin, Dutchman panel, floor pan and trunk pan. Good chance it also needs outer wheelhouses and trunk drop-offs and who knows what else. This would amount to several thousand in new sheetmetal costs. You mentioned you would probably have a body shop install the quarters and roof. I'm guessing you would also have them doing the filler work, priming and blocking and paint. There's several thousand more.

I agree, that there is indeed several thousands worth of bodyshop/paint involved in a revival of this thing... but NADA values it at 40-70k (avg to high), so if it’s indeed a numbers car with a desireable color/motor combo, I can’t imagine spending 35k on revival (putting me already at the “avg” value.)
 
for a investment
double HELL NO because you will be farming out the body work
many better places to put your money
 
text me later so I can remember to get my code book out and send you the codes that I don't have here from memory.
M21-drip rail mouldings
M31-belt mouldings
H51-ac (you know that already)
V21-Hood stripe
26-26" radiator
V6W-longitual white stripe
V1W-? white vinyl top
A14-? something is coming in my head about the spring special.
R11-2 watt AM radio

Not sure if that is a H2W for the interior if so,
H-High class
2-Vinyl benach
W-White guts

being a H9G car its not going to have the rear gears on that tag,not sure if any of the factories did.
not sure on the 428 , mine is C19 here and is the build date.
 
oh and nice car by the way. Nicer options then mine. would love and factory ac car. but wouldn't give up the 4 speed.
 
Just playing around with the MyMopar decoder. Hard to make out some of the codes, but here ya go:

RM23:
Plymouth Belvedere,Satellite
Medium, Road Runner
2 Door Hardtop
H96: 383 330HP OR 335HP 1-4BBL 8 CYL
1969
Newark, DE, USA
256513: Sequence number
E63: 383 cid 4 barrel V8 H.P. 335hp
D32: Heavy Duty Automatic Transmission
K2: Unknown Exterior Color
K2: Trim - Unknown, Vinyl Bench Seat, Unknown Color
H2R: Unknown Int. Door Frames
M1: Build Date: 1
383022: Order number
A14: Unknown Top Color
H51: Air Conditioning with Heater
M21: Roof drip rail moldings
M31: Belt Moldings
R11: Radio Solid State AM (2 Watts)
V1W: Unknown
M21: Roof drip rail moldings
V6W: Longitudinal Stripes, White
26: 26in Radiator
END: End of Sales Codes

http://mymopar.com/index.php?pid=87
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top