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Would you buy mopar cam and lifter kits vs comp,crane, isky,engle, etc.

moparjohnny

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I have a decision to make for a 440 hi po street,4 speed trans,3.55 gears, roadrunner,are mopar kits equal to those brand names?quality,dependability?
 
everybody will have a different opinion. Mopar doesn't make their cams so i would personally buy a brand name, like Comp or Crane only cause i have experience with both.
 
Mopar Performance or Comp Cams

Mopar Performance cams have a wider lobe than most of the other cam manufacturer's. This causes the lifter to rise in the bore a little faster than the other brands. I think Hughes use the same principle.

I personally use either the Mopar Performance or Comp Cams on everything I build.


Like mentioned above, everyone will have their opinion.

It will matter what compression ratio, type of intake, headers or no headers, carb size, etc., that will determine the outcome for your choice.


Comp Cams has a very cool computer program that is on line for you to use. It asks you all of these questions and takes a lot of guess work out of it. It will then recommend what camshaft to go with, along with a few other good choices.
 
trying to be realistic, cams and cam grinders are like women. you want a redhead, blonde or brunette? mopar cams are o.k., so are crane, engle or comp cams (did i say that? i hate comp cams!). i've tried them all. don't get lost in the "904 lifter" hype. just get something that's reliable and fits your build and driving/performance style.
 
If you go with Comp (which I like) ask if they have resolved their hyd lifter problems first "if going hyd". I recently sent two sets back that wouldn't pump up (ticked) and they confirmed they were bad, now I'm waiting on a new cam and solid lifters just because I'm so sick of messing with it. You're probably wandering why I like them after that, I look at it like this, they've been at it a while with allot of success and I've always been happy with they're product but who knows what's going on "maybe they just switched makers and are realizing maybe it's time to switch again". If they don't get it straightened out soon then I'll go elsewhere.
 
trying to be realistic, cams and cam grinders are like women. you want a redhead, blonde or brunette? mopar cams are o.k., so are crane, engle or comp cams (did i say that? i hate comp cams!). i've tried them all. don't get lost in the "904 lifter" hype. just get something that's reliable and fits your build and driving/performance style.
Hmmm... never looked at cams quite like that. What if you want one of each ?
 
I use to use Crane Cams exclusively for many years, they were one of my sponsors for almost 20 years & would grind anything I really wanted too {they are owned & operated under different people now}, I was also a big Racer Brown, Norris Cams guy in my early years & was especially fond of Lunati for a while too especially their rollers... Comp Cams use to bet the go to guys, IMHFO not so much anymore, allegedly quality has suffered in recent years, not sure why... Hughes has allegedly had some quality & durability issues also, in recent years mostly, but they use to be really good too, I haven't used any for quite a while now, because all of the complaints, I had heard & read about... But just look on any Mopar forum or racing site, you will find some complaint about stuff, with many different brands camshaft related... Usually set-up/installed wrong, mostly on the installers part & probably taking short cuts & not doing the proper measuring, research, checking clearances or using substandard parts... Mopar Performance for a street car engine build, is probably just fine, if you go with one of the up-dated camshaft grinds & stay way from the older style stuff, unless your running open headers & steep gears & hi-stall speeds... BUT Opinions will vary vastly, that's for sure that's mine... Get a cam based on what your engine & what your driving needs will be, period, don't buy into all the hype of any company... I have an older Crane roller & Super gold 1.6:1 roller rockers in my personal car, have for most all my cars in recent years too... I stick with what works, they have been really good to me & have had no failures or issues at all, even with Hydr. Rollers... except some adjusters on some Crane Ductile iron rockers, quite a few years ago now, they made a bad batch of "outsourced cheap/soft & weak adjusters", I replaced them with some hardened Comp adjuster's & they were fine... ALWAYS Make sure to check push-rod length, with any camshaft change, base circles vary vastly, engine block deck & head surface changes, changes push rod lengths, even with the MP stuff.... my $0.02 cents
 
Dido on the pushrod length, it's not uncommon for people to break the adjusters from running them to far out (wrong pushrod length). The best way to do it right is to have the cam and lifters already installed and then use an adjustable pushrod to get the proper length. From everything I've read, correct pushrod length is were you only have 1-2 threads showing under the rocker. I've actually had good luck with Summit's brand as well but that was in a mostly stock motor.
 
Dido on the pushrod length, it's not uncommon for people to break the adjusters from running them to far out (wrong pushrod length). The best way to do it right is to have the cam and lifters already installed and then use an adjustable pushrod to get the proper length. From everything I've read, correct pushrod length is were you only have 1-2 threads showing under the rocker. I've actually had good luck with Summit's brand as well but that was in a mostly stock motor.
if you compare the old adjusters with the screwdriver slot vs the newer allen head type i don't think i'd do any turns showing on the new stuff. most of the threads showing info is old and pertained to the older adjuster that didn't have an extended ball tip.
 
if you compare the old adjusters with the screwdriver slot vs the newer allen head type i don't think i'd do any turns showing on the new stuff. most of the threads showing info is old and pertained to the older adjuster that didn't have an extended ball tip.
I was referring to the newer stuff (allen head), I've heard it from different sources including Comp which is what I have but it's like everything else "everyone's got they're own way". It does make sense to me, anytime you have a bolt hanging out further then needed it's going to be more prone to breaking. So, yes no threads would be good.
 
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