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Please Help; Oil on valley pan. See Photos.

themechanic

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Is this normal?

I removed the stock intake and found oil on both left and right sides of the valley pan where the manifold meets the valley pan. What is the problem? Is it serious? What is the solution? Should I just install the new intake manifold?

P.S. The engine runs fine and no signs of oil usage. Old spark plugs looked normal. Engine is a T code from a RV probably. Mileage unknown; it was in the car when I bought it.

Thanks FBBO.

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it's not unusual for that to happen use the six pack paper gaskets with the valley pan when you reinstall the intake that should fix it
 
it's not unusual for that to happen use the six pack paper gaskets with the valley pan when you reinstall the intake that should fix it

It only had the valley pan without paper gaskets when I pulled the intake. So, it's sucking oil under the pan from the lifter valley? I also noticed the bolts holding the intake on were barely tight.

Thanks for the relief. I didn't know what I was getting into when I saw all that oil.
 
The hardware not being too tight would have caused it.

I would like to know the pros and cons on using the paper gaskets with the valley pan. Also do you use them on the inside and out or just one side?
 
Usually paper gaskets are only used with aluminum intakes. Also really depends on the particular type/design of the intake used.

Loose fasteners = loose oil.
 
When you buy a new pan gasket, get one with the crossovers blocked off. I've never used the paper gaskets, but Felpros instead. But then I've never had a 6 pack setup either.
 
The hardware not being too tight would have caused it.

I would like to know the pros and cons on using the paper gaskets with the valley pan. Also do you use them on the inside and out or just one side?

Many reports here and elsewhere of the paper gaskets adding thickness making poor alignment and hard or no starting bolt threads and leaks.

Most say use paper gaskets with 6-packs and just the tin on everything else.

- - - Updated - - -

When you buy a new pan gasket, get one with the crossovers blocked off. I've never used the paper gaskets, but Felpros instead. But then I've never had a 6 pack setup either.

The FelPro kit comes with 4 thin paper gaskets (2 for each side) and a metal valley pan. I used just the pan but I haven't put the Eddy RPM on, yet.

BTW, how do you tell if you have a leak?
 
I agree, loose bolts are the most likely culprit with the oil. If you tighten things properly, you can get by with using the valley pan only. If you have aluminum manifold, periodically check the bolts for tightness. I sometimes use a sealant (a brush on type) along all the beaded areas just for good measure. I have also brushed sealant onto the intake bolt threads as an extra measure as oil can come up around the bolts as well.
 
Also make sure you torque the intake down in the criss - cross pattern shown in the service manual.
 
I like to use "copper coat" in spray form on both sides of the new pan.
You could retorque your bolts after like 500- 1000 miles.
The reason a lot of these four bangers with cast iron block to aluminum head, blow their gaskets is because they never get re torqued...
 
Right. BTW, Edelbrock manual says 25 ft/lbs. Will that be enough if I don't use the paper gaskets?

25 ft. lbs. with aluminum heads and 40 ft. lbs. with stock heads.
 
I like to use "copper coat" in spray form on both sides of the new pan.
You could retorque your bolts after like 500- 1000 miles.
The reason a lot of these four bangers with cast iron block to aluminum head, blow their gaskets is because they never get re torqued...

I bought some but it kept clogging. It was late so I just installed with the small amount that came out of the can each time.
 
I always use Renzosil by Victor Reinz (the black stuff), never had any leaks!

Dan

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I'd like to thank everybody who responded. I decided to paint the pan engine color (or close to it as Hemi Orange aint the same from VHT as it is from Duplicolor).

Anyway, here are a few photos of a work in progress. BTW, the fuel line kit didn't fit and will be going back for a hard line kit:

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Can't tell by the pics, lol, and somebody correct me if I'm off my rocker!

Doesn't look like you used any of the thin paper gaskets.
The deal I've always been told is.........always use a paper gasket against aluminum.

The steel pan 'gasket' works for steel heads, and steel intake. If used against aluminum, it will eventually dig into the aluminum mating surface. That's why paper against aluminum is recommended.

On your application, the pan against the (steel) heads, using a thin paper gasket on top for the aluminum intake to sit on. The four thin paper gaskets are for aluminum heads and intake.
 
I didn't use paper gaskets. I read a lot of posts and the majority didn't use them. I guess I'll see if there are any leaks when I start the engine. Good point about protecting the aluminum flange.
 
The oil is weeping through the bolt threads. I usually put some sealer around those too.
 
I've lots of practice replacing my intake(s) on my 383. I've tried several edelbrocks. Each time I tried to use the paper gaskets but found the intakes wouldn't sit right and very difficult to get all bolts in as the angles were off. I had always heard use the paper with aluminum too. Then I found that there had been some work done on the heads and block. So, I completely left the paper gaskets out and put the intakes on with permatex and no problems at all. Just kept tightening the bolts every so often but no oil. Good luck!
 
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